Travels with Steinbeck

Our Winnebago is parked out front (see picture) and Cele has scrubbed it down inside and I’ve done the same with the exterior. We’ve waded through piles of mail that wasn’t forwarded, done a ton of laundry, and caught up with family and friends (though our blog and regular email access made this possible on the road). I even shaved off my beard!

Though they’ve all been mentioned in the blog, we wanted to list a few companies and people who made this trip much more enjoyable and successful. Of course, the trip would have been impossible without our trusty Winnebago Outlook. We can’t begin to imagine what Steinbeck would think if he saw our Winnebago compared to his little truck camper! Thanks to Sheila Davis, Kelli Harms, and others at Winnebago HQ in Forest City, Iowa (great factory tour and RV service!) for making us big-time (and lifetime) Winnebago fans. The legendary company is celebrating their 50^th anniversary in 2008.

And, in thinking about our Winnebago, we wanted to mention and thank Camper Country in Myrtle Beach, South Carolina. Our RV was delivered there and we’ve had some minor service issues taken care of there quickly and professionally (as well as being under Winnebago’s industry-leading warranty).  We’ve recommended them to several people and hope to convert many more to RVing and Winnebagos.

Speaking of “conversion” to RVing, we have sent many who are interested in RVing to the excellent Go RVing website to learn (lots!) more and receive a super DVD or CD. It provides the perfect introduction to RVing! 

We carried a number of “toys” with us to further enjoy the great outdoors. Our Specialized hybrid bikes gave us great access to trails and roads into small towns. We carried them on a great Thule rack. We’d honestly used Yakima racks and other toy carrier products previously, but the quality and innovative design of our Thule bike rack means we’ll be replacing several Yakima products in 2008! We also used a great Thule storage box and look forward to trying some of their Thule Smart RV RV-specific line that they’ve just released.

We tucked two inflatable kayaks under our back ladder and loved using them throughout the trip. These great little boats are made by Advanced Elements and we found them perfect for RV travel. We’ve also used them in our backyard creek and have taken them on several road trips in the Jeep–where you can see an interesting body of water and be paddling on it in less than 10 minutes (I’m not kidding!).

Some other “products” from our trip deserve special mention beyond earlier blog entries. If I‘ve forgotten any, please let me know!

We didn’t get lost very often–but when we did–our Garmin GPS always came to the rescue with both vocal directions and very clear directions and maps on our large screen. We also used the Garmin when driving to a specific address in a city and very much enjoyed our subscription to XM Radio. And, in thinking about not getting lost, Michelin and Rand McNally became our two favorite maps for making driving plans before hitting the road and planning diversions once underway. GPS is great, but we still love perusing maps on paper!

We’re also the proud parents of six huge Michelin tires. We equate Michelin quality to Winnebago and that’s a nice feeling when you’re rolling down the road.

The series of options from Campfire Grill made it really easy to use our many campfires for cooking as well. These products are great for all kinds of campers–from RVers to backpackers (we’ve also heard the motorcyclists who camp love their compact size).

We also used our ancient, but excellent, Coleman lantern often and one of their propane stoves occasionally (our grill and indoor stove made this for “emergency” use only). Coleman makes a ton of other great camping products.

A number of the products above (and many more) came from Camping World. This RV owner’s paradise is the “superstore” of RVing and we stopped at many along the way (along with the occasional Wal-Mart, of courseJ ). The Camping World staff is quite knowledgeable and they always seemed to know about (and have) exactly what we needed.

Good Sam is another major player that every RVer needs (or will need). We always enjoyed staying at Good Sam campgrounds (where members get a 10% discount). Good Sam members are known for being “Good Samaritans” to other travelers. For instance, we arrived at several Good Sam campsites to find a campfire already prepared for our enjoyment. We must admit to being a little biased because they featured our trip in their excellent members’ magazine, Highways.

We had previously signed up for Good Sam’s great Emergency Road Service and are happy to report we didn’t need it the entire trip. We had used it twice before our trip–once when we got the RV stuck in a muddy ditch and a second time for a dead battery–the quick and professional service both times convinced us to renew before out big trip.

As loyal readers know, we stayed at a number of great KOA campgrounds. We really grew to appreciate their friendliness, cleanliness, and consistency (though surprises like warm cookies or ice cream bars delivered to our door as a welcome gift kept each KOA unique). KOAs were especially welcome when we wanted long hot showers, laundry facilities, and wi-fi.

We also spent many nights at state parks. For spacious campsites and varied natural experiences (like hiking, biking, and kayaking), it’s hard to beat these natural resources. We stayed in a state park in virtually every state through which we passed. Of course, the national parks system is also alive and well, with visits to Theodore Roosevelt National Park (the Badlands), Yellowstone National Park (with wildlife galore), and Petrified Forest National Park (including the Painted Desert) among many incredible experiences for us on this trip.

Other quick “kudos” go to: Ford (we’ve been very impressed with our E-450 chassis and service at various Ford dealers across the country); Interstate batteries (we accidentally drained our “house” batteries and they solved the issue through a local dealer); Dometic (www.dometic.com) (great awnings and more!); and various RVing-specific products we’ve grown to appreciate from Thetford and Camco.

That’s a lot of products, but the list of people to thank is even longer. Here’s a quick rundown in the same order as the trip:

*Our favorite microbrewer, Sam Calagione at Delaware’s Dogfish Head Craft Brewed Ales…Pour it Again, Sam!

*Oliver Peterson out on Long Island, who learned about our trip after our visit to Sag Harbor and wrote about it several times for the Southampton Press.

*PR pro Nancy Marshall in Augusta, Maine, who took delivery of an important FedEx for us and also provided lots of insight to the state she obviously loves.

*Matt Polstein of Maine’s New England Outdoor Center, who welcomed us (and our RV) with open arms and exposed us to his marvelous state of Maine (including Baxter State Park) and NEOC’s incredible restaurant, River Drivers.

*Betsy Foster in Canada, who made our trip to the Canadian side of Niagara Falls and the rest of our time in Ontario a special memory.

*RV guru and historian, Al Hesselbart, who showed us around the incredible RV/MH Museum and Hall of Fame in Elkhart, Indiana.

*Previously mentioned Kelli Harms and Sheila Davis at Winnebago in Forest City, Iowa, who have made us Winnebago wanderers for life.

*Gary Knowles, a Wisconsin expert who sent us to all of the right places for cheese, beer, and more (including a great hotel stay and meal nearby at Del-Bar in Wisconsin Dells). Thanks also to Melanie Platt-Gibson, for hosting us for dinner and introducing us to the Wisconsin Dells (Steinbeck also loved it there).

*Chuck Lennon, an equally astute expert on Minnesota, who told us about the incredible Oktoberfest and August Schell Brewery in New Ulm and also helped us with our Sauk Centre visit.

*Ditto for Donnie Sexton in Montana–what a wonderful state and we can’t wait to return.

*Our friend, Bridget Sheahan, in Spokane, who joined us for a quick lunch and lots of memories about our time in Germany together.

*Louie Richmond in Seattle, who introduced us to the restaurants and food of Tom Douglas.

*Holland America’s Erik Elvejord and Tracy Peterson, who provided us with quintessential Seattle friendliness, coffee, and food. Holland America remains one of our favorite lines and we plan to sail with them whenever we can pursue another lifetime goal–a world cruise.

*Scott Thomasen and his parents, Ron and Jan. Scott gave us some great tips for visiting “Steinbeck Country” and his parents welcomed us into their incredible home for one of our favorite stops of the entire trip.

*Amanda Holder at the National Steinbeck Center–we couldn’t have made this trip so “Steinbeck” without her. Our time at the NSC remains a highlight of the adventure.

*Cele’s brother and sister-in-law, Paul and Bev Serwitz (and their sons Brady and Max), who provided a nice respite in Los Angeles before beginning our journey east.

*Santa Fe PR person extraordinaire Rachel Mason, who provided tasty insider dining information about Blue Corn Café and Rio Chama. We’re now huge fans of spicy green chile!

*Eric Miller in Amarillo, who set us up at the incredible Big Texan Steak Ranch for one of most memorable meals of the trip and thus provided our version of the Thanksgiving-period “ranch” experience that Steinbeck had enjoyed in Texas.

*Our friends Andy and Jay Boisseau in Austin, who told us about a get-together of about 50 Virginia Tech and UVA fans for the post-Thanksgiving football classic.

*New Orleans experts Mary Beth Romig and Christine Decuir, who helped us find an incredible RV resort right in the revitalized Quarter and located the school Steinbeck had visited. The Big Easy is back!

*Our friend, Chef Susan Spicer, who prepared a quite memorable meal for us at her legendary Quarter restaurant, Bayona. Susan has a tasty new cookbook out called “Crescent City Cooking” and its receiving rave reviews.

I apologize for this “laundry list” of products and people, but–like Steinbeck–we found that our trip was greatly enhanced by the help of people and products all along the way. Our own “Search for America” couldn’t have been accomplished without them!

It happened to Steinbeck in Abingdon, Virginia. It happened to us in Montgomery, Alabama. It was time to go home.

Steinbeck wrote that, “My own journey started before I left, and was over before I returned.” We felt the same–once we were back in the south we know and love, we were already home. Then, it was just a matter of driving back to Oak Island like Steinbeck drove back to New York (he actually went back to his place in Manhattan, rather than to Sag Harbor).

Steinbeck wrote that his trip ended near Abingdon and he rushed through the rest of his drive…and the book, which ended very short three pages later. During our trip and lots of Steinbeck-oriented research and reading, I did find another “final” chapter for “Travels with Charley” about Kennedy’s inauguration. It was in a book of his non-fiction called “America and Americans.”

After New Orleans, we drove along the Mississippi coast. This was our first visit there and it was quite pretty–though many Katrina reminders still remain, including damaged houses and many FEMA trailers. It reminded us of how fragile our island home can be and how fortunate we are compared to many on the Gulf Coast.

We crossed into Alabama at Mobile and found yet another great Panera Bread location to check email and buy a few of their tasty bagels. Like Steinbeck, we then headed to Montgomery and the ghosts of Martin Luther King Jr. and Rosa Parks.

Steinbeck had spent much of the book after New Orleans lamenting the state and fate of African Americans in the south. He lamented that many people would see Charley and joke that they thought they saw a n_gger in Rocinante with him. Our time in Montgomery and the rest of the south made us feel that Steinbeck would be pleased with the progress procured by the likes of King, Parks, and even little Ruby Bridges back in New Orleans. However, we know he’d be using his pen to work for complete equality and treatment (possibly for today’s Hispanics).

We passed into Georgia and decided to head to Warm Springs, where FDR had gone for a “cure” to his polio. Earlier in the trip, we’d watched the HBO feature film called “Warm Springs” and became fascinated with FDR. Throughout the trip, we were reminded of the great man–thanks to lots of CCC buildings and projects in the state and federal parks where we often camped.

In fact, we camped at Georgia’s excellent Franklin Delano Roosevelt State Park about 10 miles from Warm Springs (the park includes huge pines originally planted by FDR). We headed into Warm Springs the next morning and visited the original springs where FDR (and thousands more) had finally found some relief from his affliction. Just up the hill, the sprawling Roosevelt Institute is a continuing tribute to FDR’s work.

We’ll soon head into South Carolina and find one of their many great state parks before heading into the Tar Heel State and home. Like Steinbeck, we’re ready to be home to enjoy a spacious (and long) shower.

Once home, I’ll likely post a wrap-up or three concerning this life-changing trip. Thanks for reading!

Dear John,

We followed your route through Louisiana and have much to report to you after your visit 47 years before us.

We loved the city you called “La-Fayette,” thanks to its very “French” Acadian food and atmosphere. Before heading to our bayou campground just outside town, we stopped in several food emporiums for seafood- and pork-stuffed boudin. Dinner at famed Prejean’s included ‘gator, frog legs, crawfish, oysters, catfish, and stuffed crab, washed down with ice-cold Abita beer. The next morning, we headed to bustling downtown and simply had to visit the Cathedral of St. John the Evangelist (pictured), in that you’ve definitely been our evangelist on this trip.

Just south of Lafayette and near the charming little town of New Iberia, we headed to Avery Island–where Tabasco has been produced since 1868. There’s an excellent factory tour (see photo) and a “Country Store” that has practically everything “Tabasco” imaginable. We’re thinking you liked spicy food, John, so we bought several bottles of hot sauce in your honor.

Next, we took the “back” way to New Orleans through Morgan City, just like you–including a swing through Houma. You called Houma (pronounced Homer) one of the pleasantest places in the world. Houma is definitely pretty, but we’re thinking your memory was somewhat jaded. You mentioned your friend, one Dr. St. Martin, made “the best and most subtle martini in the world by a process approximating magic.” We couldn’t find a local bar to toast you and Dr. St. Martin, but we did learn that there are still many St. Martins in the area (including a number of lawyers and doctors).

New Orleans was next, but not before another excellent state park experience at Bayou Segnette. This superb state park, less than 30 minutes from the French Quarter, included huge campsites, free laundry facilities, and wi-fi. We couldn’t ask for more before heading into the Big Easy.

Your goal in visiting New Orleans was to see the “cheerleaders” in action (more on this below), but we also wanted to get back to the city you knew and loved. You wrote, “I was in New Orleans of the great restaurants. I know then all and most of them know me. And I could have no more gone to Gallatoir’s [your typo] for an omelet and champagne than I could have danced on a grave.” We opted to delay our “cheerleaders” experience and enjoy a taste of New Orleans first.

Our 24-hour visit included finding the French Quarter RV Resort, a great RV resort within walking distance of the Quarter (it would have been a great base for Rocinante as well). We spent an afternoon walking the streets, which are coming back to life with locals and visitors after Hurricane Katrina in 2005. We recalled you went through Hurricane Donna back in September, 1960, just before leaving on your trip. This city is welcoming tourists with open arms and we were glad to support the local economy by buying a mufulletta at Central Grocery, raw oysters and steamed crawfish at Acme Oyster House, and lots of typical New Orleans souvenirs (including some of the Community chicory-laced coffee we love).

In the evening, we strolled to Bayona on Rue Dauphine, where our friend Susan Spicer is the chef and owner of one of the region’s best restaurants. We started with Susan’s incredible garlic soup and special scallop dish with pork belly and then Susan sent out her wonderful crispy smoked quail salad with bourbon molasses vinaigrette for us to sample. For our entrees, Cele had the excellent peppered lamb loin with herbed goat cheese and zin sauce, while I tried one of the specials–a bodacious boudin-stuffed rabbit (with a fried leg thrown in for lagniappe). We’re certain the food and service were as good or better as any you would have received at Gallatoire’s, John!

Chef Spicer joined us for a glass of wine after dinner, making for a perfect end to our day in New Orleans. We told Susan about our trip and know you would have liked her, the food, and the atmosphere of Bayona, which is situated in a 200-year-old Creole cottage. Susan also has a tasty new cookbook called “Crescent City Cooking” and were anxious to try some of her recipes back in our kitchen on Oak Island.

The next morning, John, we followed you to William Frantz Public School (see picture). As you know and experienced back in December, 1960, the “cheerleaders” stationed themselves outside this school to scream racial slurs at a little girl who only wanted to learn (the school was being integrated). We know you were sickened by what you saw and I won’t even try to match your writing on this subject. We did track down the little girl’s name: Ruby Bridges. She’s actually still in New Orleans and more can be read about her (and her life and work) at www.rubybridges.org.

Our visit to the school was equally sad for us, John, in that it was closed and boarded up due to Hurricane Katrina. However, as is often the case, hope was nearby–Habitat for Humanity was building new houses a few blocks from the school.

As quickly as you, we left William Frantz and headed out of Louisiana. Montgomery, Alabama is next–just like you back in early-December, 1960.

All My Best, John,

Lynn

Just like Steinbeck, we headed into Texas at Glenrio, making our way to Amarillo (where he had his truck camper’s windshield replaced and then met his wife at a nearby ranch for Thanksgiving). Though it wasn’t there when he passed, we couldn’t resist stopping at “Cadillac Ranch” just to the west of Amarillo (see picture). Set just off I-40, you have to dodge occasional tumbleweeds to visit these half-buried Cadillacs in the middle of a flat Texas field.

Unlike Steinbeck, we didn’t have friends who owned a ranch and invited us for Thanksgiving. However, we did find an incredible place in Amarillo called Big Texan Steak Ranch (see picture). It was hard to miss thanks to all of the billboards along I-40 heading into town (mostly advertising the “free” 72-ounce steak…if you can finish it in an hour!). Ironically, the place opened in 1960 just before Steinbeck would pass through Amarillo with Charley–it’s definitely his kind of place–very “America,” and that’s what he was in search of on this trip.

After finding a KOA just outside town, we called the Big Texan’s limo service and headed out for a “ranch” experience of our own. To say that the Big Texan is unique is an understatement as big as the state of Texas. We both enjoyed very tasty Texas-sized steaks and sides (leaving with lots of leftovers), as well as watching a (failed) attempt for a free steak (see picture). We later learned that more than 42,000 have tried and only about 8,000 have succeeded thus far (if you fail, your steak dinner costs you $72.00–up from $9.95 when the promotion first started in the early-1960s).

We really enjoyed Amarillo, but a cold front had moved in (this actually happened to Steinbeck at the same time as well, 47 years ago) and it was time to move on. We followed his route from Amarillo to Lubbock and then through Sweetwater on his and our way to Austin. For Thanksgiving Day, we stayed outside Abilene, where the cold front brought in several inches of snow. We couldn’t find a “ranch” for our Thanksgiving feast, so we headed out to Wal-Mart and put together an impromptu turkey dinner and cooked it in our RV while watching the snow fall heavily just outside–it was very “America,” in an RVing/Wal-Mart sort of way.

His wife Elaine had joined him for Thanksgiving on the ranch (apparently owned by a brother of her ex-husband) and she apparently rode with him to Austin where they visited her sister. We did something similar, in that we were able to visit Andy and Jay Boisseau, the sons of our long-time Richmond friend, Pete Boisseau. We actually met them at a downtown Austin sports bar called Third Base, where about 50 UVA and Virginia Tech transplants watched Tech trounce the Wahoos.

After Austin, we found a great Texas state park called Bastrop, and then made our way to Port Arthur and the Louisiana state line. Cajun country is next and we’ll also go in search of the school where Steinbeck watched in disgust as the “cheerleaders” pursued their racist ways (more on this later).

Finding he “couldn’t go home again,“ Steinbeck rushed away from Salinas and quickly made his way east into (and out of) Arizona and New Mexico (he was anxious to meet his wife, Elaine, once again–for Thanksgiving in Texas). The beautiful landscapes of the southwest kept us to a slower pace, with lots of memorable stops in Arizona and New Mexico on our way to Amarillo.

We joined the western terminus of I-40 near Barstow to head out of California and it was really odd to see a sign giving the mileage to Wilmington, North Carolina (we passed it too quickly to see for certain, but it’s 2,500+ miles). Wilmington is the eastern terminus of I-40 and, though we wouldn’t be taking I-40 all the way home, it certainly put the trip’s end on our radar (and the resulting mixed and melancholy feelings of heading home to Oak Island).

We passed through the Mohave Desert (with places like Devil’s Playground) and spent the night in Needles (we think Steinbeck must have done the same). We then crossed into Arizona and used both I-40 and Route 66 (“The Mother Road”) to pass through this beautiful state. We were pleasantly surprised how much of Route 66 remains (including lots of class diners and more) and took it whenever possible. There’s a great stretch between Kingman (a Route 66 Mecca) and Seligman, as well as a fun section through Winslow, where we couldn’t resist “standing on the corner” (see picture). Just outside Winslow, we found a great little state park called Homolovi Ruins and camped near four pueblo sites thought to have been occupied between 1200 and 1425.

Though Steinbeck didn’t mention it in the book, we also couldn’t resist making a very slight diversion through the Petrified Forest National Park (see picture). Unlike anywhere we’ve seen on earth, the petrified wood littered through this park makes for a very unusual landscape. The park also includes the Painted Desert and, as late-afternoon approached, the light of the “painted” cliffs was simply surreal.

Next, New Mexico, brought more of Mother Nature at her finest. We camped under the red rocks near Gallup, got totally lost in the Cibola National Forest, and then headed up the Turquoise Road to Santa Fe. Steinbeck didn’t mention this specific diversion, but we were in search of authentic New Mexico food and knew Santa Fe wouldn’t disappoint.

After finding a commercial campground just outside town, we headed into Santa Fe proper and found Blue Corn Café and Brewery. This great place (they have two locations) features creative New Mexican fare and we tried a bit of practically everything: blue and white corn chips; spicy salsa, guacamole, and queso; and one each of an enchilada, taco, and tamale. Cele also ordered their unique “Tortilla Burger,” a tasty concoction that featured a burger smothered in cheese and green chile and wrapped with a fresh tortilla. If this sounds like a ton of food, it was–we enjoyed spicy leftovers for days.

We spent the next day exploring downtown Santa Fe, including a stop at the Santa Fe School of Cooking shop–though, we were bummed to learn no cooking classes were scheduled. We also checked out the tasty brunch at Rio Chama, which is owned by the same guy (Gerald Peters) who owns Blue Corn (as well as Santa Fe’s Sleeping Dog Tavern and Rooftop Pizza and Albuquerque’s Chama River Brewing Company).

We spent the next night just north of Santa Fe at Hyde Memorial State Park, enjoying a roaring fire under a stand of fragrant pinon trees. Sadly, because it was a busy Sunday, we couldn’t book a hot tub under the stars at famed Ten Thousand Waves, a Japanese-style mountain spa resort overlooking Santa Fe.

Back on what appeared to be Steinbeck’s route, we passed through another Route 66 town, Tucumcari–which was featured in a great Little Feat song called Willin’–”I’ve been to Tucson to Tucumcari, Tahachapi to Tonopah.” We found a great Route 66 wall mural in town (see picture).

Amarillo, where Steinbeck stopped for several days to have his windshield fixed, is next.

Steinbeck tried to meet interesting people during his trek across America and we’ve done the same. We certainly succeeded in Steinbeck country.

During a “wine cruise” aboard Carnival last year, we’d met a wine guru named Scott Thomasen. When he learned of our trip, he told us he was from Steinbeck country and that we simply had to visit his parents once there.

We fulfilled this promise and we’re so glad we did! After a quick call and only two hours of warning, Ron and Jan Thomasen graciously met us outside the little town of Corralitos–where Ron proceeded to jump in the Winnebago’s passenger seat and help guide me up the last two very curvy miles to their house.

Quite simply, we can’t praise the house, the view, the wine, and the people appropriately–maybe Steinbeck could have done it with words (he would have loved this place and these people), but I can’t. We still can’t believe that Scott grew up in this incredible environment overlooking the Pacific. Ron and Jan told us many wonderful stories about living in Steinbeck country and we enjoyed an excellent syrah from their own pretty vineyard. As we praised the wine, Ron related that David Bruce (one of our favorite California pinot producers) had once used their grapes (including two years of single-vineyard designation called Split Rail–the name of their wonderful home and property).

After reluctantly leaving their home (we asked the Thomasens for a return visit rain check), we headed into the heart of Steinbeck country. This included a stop at Monterey’s Cannery Row, which was made famous by Steinbeck. It’s obviously commercialized now (including condos, hotels, restaurants, shops, and the excellent Monterey Bay Aquarium), but there’s still the downtrodden sea-drenched feel that Steinbeck described so well in Cannery Row. We also found a statue of Steinbeck overlooking the water (see picture).

After finding Ed Ricketts’ lab and several other sites covered in Steinbeck’s fiction and non-fiction (we think the bar he mentioned in Travels with Charley was leveled for a hotel), we headed to adjacent Pacific Grove. Steinbeck often retreated here to write or simply escape hard times (he was once quite poor).

Steinbeck country guru Scott Thomasen had told us about his favorite area restaurant, Passionfish, and we’d definitely learned to trust his judgment on food and wine. Situated in Pacific Grove’s quaint and quiet downtown area (we now know why Steinbeck liked it here), the folks at Passionfish are obviously passionate about what they’re doing–and they do it well.

Scott had told us to ask for chef Ted Walter, who co-owns and -operates Passionfish with his personable wife, Cindy. With Ted’s guidance, we had an amazing meal that featured fresh regional produce and seafood (like oysters and octopus we’re sure Ed Ricketts and Steinbeck would have appreciated). Scott had also told us about the unique wine list, which didn’t disappoint with its range (lots of local stuff) and pricing (incredibly reasonable).

We’re quite certain that if Steinbeck were living in Pacific Grove again, he’d make Passionfish a regular haunt. When we told Ted about our trip and passion for everything Steinbeck, he proceeded to tell us that his grandmother had actually gone to high school with Steinbeck over in Salinas and was used as a character in East of Eden. It’s stories like this that have us feeling such a strong connection with Steinbeck during this trip.

After reluctantly leaving Passionfish and Pacific Grove, we spent the night in a foggy hillside campground nestled between Monterey and Salinas–with the plan to head into Salinas early to find a wide variety of Steinbeck-related sites before the National Steinbeck Center opened at 10 the next morning.

We succeeded in a big way, easily finding Steinbeck’s gravesite (pictured), many specific Main Street buildings mentioned in East of Eden (including an old department store that‘s now a very modern internet café), and his boyhood home (where we would later have lunch served by waitress volunteers in period clothes).

The sprawling National Steinbeck Center (www.steinbeck.org) right in the heart of his hometown was certainly a highlight of this trip in every way. After immersing ourselves in Steinbeck in general and Travels with Charley specifically both before and during this trip, we were simply in Steinbeck heaven. I have to admit that we’re not big fans of stuffy museums of any type and typically take much less time in them than the average visitor, but this was a different story!

I won’t bore loyal readers with the long laundry list of what this museum holds (I’ll be preparing several feature articles with lots of details), but the highlight right at the end of the Steinbeck “wing” had to be seeing Rocinante–the actual truck camper he used for his trip (see photo). Seeing the small truck camper somehow put this big trip (both for us and Steinbeck) in perspective.

Though we’d seen pictures of Rocinante previously, we weren’t prepared for how small it was and the advances RVs have made since then. We can’t imagine what Steinbeck would have thought of our Winnebago! Thanks to our National Steinbeck Center contact, Amanda Holder, who was kind enough to take a picture of us with Rocinante–and continues to be a great resource for us during the trip!

To keep on schedule, we rushed out of Salinas just as Steinbeck had in 1960. He left after a short stay because (with apologies to Thomas Wolfe) you can’t go home again. We left because we want to get home again (in time for Christmas).

After the redwoods, we kept our course along the craggy California coast. Steinbeck didn’t detail the route he took with his wife Elaine, but we’re betting he hugged the incredible coastline as well on the way down to San Francisco.

We loved little coastal towns like Arcata, including a huge Saturday farmers market where we picked up lots of fresh fruit and veggies. We dry-camped right on the ocean, including a great fire at sunset.

The drive along the coast eventually became quite difficult, so we headed inland through the Alexander Valley (a first visit for us). We tasted some excellent wines at Handley Cellars and bought a nice zin for a picnic among the brightly-colored vines (yes, they have fall colors in wine country!).

We then headed down through Sonoma, where we couldn’t resist stopping at Francis Ford Coppola’s new place–Rosso & Bianco. We love his wines and Italian-leaning lifestyle and had really liked his first place over in Napa. We enjoyed a tasting and then proceeded to buy a great Rosso blend (zin, syrah, and cab)–as well as a boxed combo of pasta, sauce, and a olive oil vinaigrette (for dipping).

As we headed south to San Francisco, we hit incredible traffic and fog. We could see we’d never match Steinbeck’s sunny crossing over the Golden Gate Bridge and into what he called “the city.” So, due to traffic, fog, and being a bit behind schedule, we actually skirted around San Francisco and headed straight south into the heart of Steinbeck country.

We hope Steinbeck and his wife Elaine (who was apparently still with him) would forgive us our small diversion from his route (we haven’t had many). We love San Francisco and have many fond memories there (we’d planned to shop for fresh produce, cheese, and seafood at the wonderful Ferry Building). We had an appointment in Steinbeck country.

Steinbeck’s descriptions of redwoods in southern Oregon and northern California are classic (with lines like “ambassadors from another time”). I won’t even try to match his prose (pages 188-191 in our copy of the book), in that I know many people are now following along with us.

We couldn’t resist passing through Portland for a stop at Columbia’s new “company store” to purchase a few items (thanks to Anne Lindberg at Columbia HQ for the pass!). Then, we were lured once again into the Willamette Valley for Cele’s Oregon pinot noir fix. Our favorite was from a great little winery called Red Hawk, where we enjoyed chatting with co-owner Betty, tasting many excellent wines, and even purchasing a few for the road.

Once in northern California, we stayed in an excellent state park within Redwoods National Park and amidst the huge redwoods (the “big tree“ has a 24-foot diameter!). Steinbeck said he spent two days “close to the bodies of the giants,” so we did the same.  He even lured Charley into “marking” one of them–something I couldn’t talk Cele into repeating.  Nestled among the massive trees, we felt like we were in our own moist cocoon…..the trees our walls and the starry sky our ceiling.  We never felt closer to the land than we did that night in the ‘land of the giants’.

During the drive through Oregon and into California, Steinbeck had his first mishap with Rocinante. He knew he’d overloaded her and one of the tires finally gave out. This occurred on a Sunday in the rain, but he was able to find a small service station with a friendly owner who helped him find a tire at a local dealer. Steinbeck wrote, “I hope that evil-looking service-station man may live for a thousand years and people the earth with his offspring.”

Just like Steinbeck, we’ve “changed the oil and attended the greasing” of our Winnebago. We had our huge Michelin tires rotated at Winnebago HQ in Forest City, Iowa, and then had our oil changed at a friendly Xpress Lube in Missoula, Montana–they even gave her a very much-needed rinse! We’re hopeful we won’t have any problems like Steinbeck, but we do have Emergency Road Service with Good Sam just in case.

To keep on Steinbeck’s relatively rushed timing, we had to pick up the pace a bit after lingering in beautiful Montana. We had hoped to spend the night in an Idaho state park, but failed to find one that was open along our route. Thus, we passed into Washington at Spokane–spending the night at a great KOA just outside town so we could have lunch with our Germany and Virginia friend Bridget before rushing to Seattle (it appears Steinbeck rushed because his wife Elaine was flying in to meet him).

This was our first visit to Seattle and we both loved the city, including Pike Place Market (see picture), the iconic Space Needle (see picture), and a great little Chinatown where we enjoyed a dim sum lunch at the House of Hong with lots of locals. Steinbeck found it changed (complaining about the traffic, as he often did on the trip). However, he evidently went to Pike Place Market (we went five times during our two-night stay)…he “drank clam juice and ate the sharp crab cocktails at stands along the waterfront.” We did something similar, including the great clam chowder at Ivar’s and samples of crab from the famed “flying fish” stand at Pike Place.

Another tasty discovery in Seattle was a result of our search for local “northwestern” cuisine. We learned about local restaurateur Tom Douglas through Seattle friend and PR person extraordinaire Louie Richmond. Douglas owns and operates several varied (and very tasty) restaurants (we checked out four of them!) and also has a great line of related products (we’re now enjoying many of his rubs and sauces on the trip).

Along with lunching with Louie, we also met with several friends of Seattle-based Holland America Line. With a long legacy of cruise travel, HAL is definitely one of our favorite lines (including their excellent Culinary Arts Center). In 2008, they’ll celebrate 50 years of world cruises (a round-the-world cruise is on our ever-shortening lifetime travel goals list).

In recently finishing Jackson Benson’s excellent (1,000-page!) Steinbeck bio, it appears Steinbeck’s wife, Elaine, actually rode with him from Seattle down to San Francisco. He didn’t mention this tidbit in Travels with Charley, but it’s obvious that he really missed her (I can’t imagine doing this trip of a lifetime without Cele, a.k.a., my Charley). Except for his ode to redwoods (see next blog entry), Steinbeck doesn’t say much about his trip down the coast to San Francisco (another city he loved).

Steinbeck loved Montana and we did as well. He said he’d move there if Montana had a sea…and we are feeling the same way as we get ready to head into Idaho later today.

Superlatives have to include: sheer beauty; friendly people; a slower-paced way of life; and some incredible food.

We crossed into Montana after a wonderful stay in the Badlands of North Dakota and the natural beauty continued. Montana is flat in the east, but you can almost feel the mountains to the west.

We stayed in a great KOA in Miles City so that I could catch the baseball playoffs, then headed to Billings for a bit of “civilization” and a search for our first Montana beef. After appetizers of spicy chicken wings and college football at a locals-only place called Tiny’s, we enjoyed one of the best hamburgers (made from bison) we’ve ever tasted at Montana Brewing Company.

Steinbeck bought a hat in Billings, a jacket in Livingston, and a rifle in Butte. I don’t look good in what we assume was a cowboy hat, neither of us needs a jacket, and I’ve sworn off guns since my VMI and Army days. Instead, we spent our money on food (did I mention steak?) and drink (they have this great beer called Moose DroolJ ).

We started seeing the immense mountains west of Billings and, after a great stop in the very “western” town of Livingston, we headed to Yellowstone National Park (just like Steinbeck). Livingston did provide a perfect example of friendly locals–we ate (steak, of course) in a restored train depot, where everyone seemed to know everyone else (and most said hello to us). Great waitresses served up some seriously tasty food and one of them even gave us two cookies for the road.

Steinbeck diverted to Yellowstone to say he had, but didn’t get far. After being warned at the entrance gate about bears “interacting” with Charley (we received no similar warnings about “seals”), Steinbeck and Charley soon encountered bears and the normally mild-mannered Charley went berserk. Steinbeck even put him in the rear of his truck camper, but the dog still went crazy every time a bear was nearby. He finally reversed course and actually headed back to Livingston having been in Yellowstone for a very brief period.

Like our crossing into Canada when Steinbeck had failed, we decided to “do” Yellowstone better. As we often do at state and national parks, we “dry camped” (no water or electric hookups). We found a great campsite with only a few other campers at Mammoth Hot Springs (and even had the natural riverside hot springs to ourselves the next morning).

Along with the hot springs soak, wildlife was a highlight of Yellowstone. We had an elk herd pass right through our campground, while hikes and drives through the park brought us up close and personal with bison (see picture), huge deer, magpies, and even a coyote (see close-up)!

When we went high into the mountains to check out the Grand Canyon of Yellowstone (see picture), we encountered a fair amount of snow and very few people. We practically had the scenery and wildlife to ourselves during the entire day in this phenomenal national park.

We re-joined Steinbeck’s apparent route west of Livingston and continued our joint love affair with the state. We found a wonderful state park called Lewis and Clark Caverns State Park (they stopped there twice), where we enjoyed a great six-mile hike up to the caverns, one of our best campfires ever (lots of great pine cones and sage kindling), bison ribeyes on the grill, and a night completely to ourselves (no other campers) under the full moon and stars of big sky Montana. It was one of our favorite evenings of the trip and another great Montana memory.

We then passed through Butte and Missoula, where we spent the night in yet another KOA (the company was founded in Montana). We’ll soon head out of the state in a melancholy mood of departure. However, Idaho and Washington look to provide similar natural beauty and experiences.

Steinbeck wanted to go to Fargo because it’s often the center point of the United States along the crease of a map when you fold it. Though he didn’t apparently love maps as much as us, it was as good a reason as any for visiting a city. We love maps and particularly like those from Rand-McNally and Michelin. We also use a great Garmin GPS and enjoy listening to XM Radio (including the Major League Baseball playoffs). We can only imagine what Steinbeck would have thought of all this (he loved gadgets).

In completing the sample chapter last year by heading to Fargo, we enjoyed an interesting afternoon there (many more hours than Steinbeck). This included food shopping and more at Wal-Mart, a pedicure for Cele at the Superstore’s “salon,” a massage for me at a dayspa across the street, and two visits to a friendly internet café to catch up with email.

This year, we tried to repeat this productive period. However, I couldn’t get a massage appointment. After a quick tour of the downtown revival (we couldn’t help but think of the feature film, “Fargo”), we hit the interstate and got into mid-North Dakota before finding a great little campground with wi-fi, cable TV for me, and laundry.

Next, we hit the interstate (a rare occurrence) to head to Theodore Roosevelt National Park and the Badlands (Steinbeck called them the Bad Lands). In Travels with Charley, Steinbeck said he knew he’d arrived in the “west” when he crossed the Missouri River from Bismarck to Mandan. Like Steinbeck, we definitely noticed the landscape change when we crossed the river. However, we really knew we’d arrived in the west when we got to the Badlands.

It’s hard to describe this landscape and great national park (we camped in the south unit for two nights). The rock formations are definitely a highlight, but the wildlife will remain with us long after the trip ends. On our first night, we had a pair of bison pass within 25 feet of our campsite (see pictures). During a loop drive and several hikes, we also spotted wild horses, deer, a porcupine, prairie dogs, and a flock of pheasant.

Montana, which Steinbeck loved, is next.

Warning, fair readers–this is another very long-winded entry. It’s actually a combination of the current trip and one we did last year. Last year’s trip took us through Minnesota in order to prepare a sample chapter for a proposed book about following Steinbeck’s Travels with Charley (along with lots of magazine assignments, a book is one of the ultimate goals of the current trip).

Last year (like Steinbeck), we tried to get lost in Minneapolis–but we’re avowed (and many would say anal) trip planners and map readers. So, unlike Steinbeck, we didn’t get hopelessly lost as we tried to make our way across the Mississippi, into and out of the Twin Cities, and on to the boyhood home of Sinclair Lewis in Sauk Centre (where Steinbeck planned to pay tribute to a much-admired fellow writer).

Unlike Steinbeck, we didn’t have any problem passing through Minneapolis (though Steinbeck wrote, “I had studied maps, drawn a careful line along the way I wished to go.”). Instead, we headed straight for (and found) the huge Mall of America. I’d say Steinbeck would have been ashamed of us.

The signs for the Mall were easy to follow and they even directed you to RV parking. We’re avowed non-shoppers and have similar views to Steinbeck when it comes to our nation’s incredibly high consumerism, but we ended up spending hours roaming the Mall, including cups of cappuccino from one of four Caribou Coffee locations (and several Starbucks), a very unusual “water massage” for me (you lie face-down under a rubber bag and get pummeled by water), and watching the cute kids in a massive indoor amusement park.

We later learned that the Mall of America is the largest fully enclosed retail and entertainment destination in America. At the time, it had more than 520 stores, 20 sit-down restaurants, 30 fast food restaurants, 14 movie screens, and 12,500 park spaces (including a lot for RVs). Their website reveals that 32 Boeing 747s could fit inside the Mall and that a shopper spending 10 minutes browsing in each store would need 86 hours to complete a visit. Like many modern consumer-oriented “attractions” we’d see on our trip, I found myself wondering what Steinbeck would have thought of the Mall of America–if he could have found it.

For us, we enjoyed this brief return to “civilization” after several weeks of state park camping (last year) and very little contact with people. Even though we didn’t end up talking to many locals (and there were thousands of them there on a weekday), we did find ourselves enjoying a few hours of hustle and bustle.

I also wonder what Steinbeck would have thought of the campground where we spent the night less than 20 miles from the Mall of America. It was called Dakotah Meadows Campground and was situated adjacent to the Mystic Lakes Casino Hotel. The campground was relatively new and was one of the cleanest we’d experienced. We took advantage of long hot showers and even paid 15 bucks to wash our RV for the first time in a huge RV wash building.

We walked over to the casino in search of a place to watch the World Series over a beer and maybe some pizza. What we found would likely have made Steinbeck turn on his heels. Owned and operated by the Shakopee Mdewakanton Sioux Community, the Mystic Lake Casino Hotel is alcohol- and firearms-free. We discovered this after heading to the sprawling (and empty) bar/restaurant adjacent to the golf course, where the mirrored back wall featured bottles of alcohol-free Odouls “beer” and little else. After unsuccessfully quizzing the friendly bartender about the reasoning for the lack of alcohol, we took the free shuttle back to our RV and proceeded to prepare our own pizza (and maybe a contraband beer or two).

The next morning (after a second long hot shower in less than 12 hours), we headed to a Twin Cities suburb called Golden Valley. Steinbeck had planned to go there as well (“drawn by its name”), but he never found it. Though we just passed through it, we found Golden Valley (population 20,381) to apparently be filled with office parks, strip malls, and a few still-golden trees (thanks to fall colors).

Steinbeck hoped to cross the Mississippi three times during an S-curve on Highway 10. We think we found the routing he planned to take, but traffic and lots of commercialism made the three crossings relatively unromantic. Traffic in the Twin Cities was about what we expected for a large metropolis, though Steinbeck reported all he saw was a river of trucks.

We did pass through the town of Anoka, as Steinbeck must have as well if he stayed on Highway 10. Large signs proclaimed the city as the “Halloween Capital of the World” and we learned later that–in 1920–they’d started a Halloween parade as a way to divert the town’s youth from pranks like turning over outhouses and letting cows loose from their pens. We passed through town right before the first of two parades and actually found ourselves wishing we had stopped for a little local color–in orange and black, of course. During this trip, we rarely regretted stops–but often regretted those not made.

We continued along U.S. 10, assuming we were following Steinbeck’s route and looking for a German restaurant where Steinbeck had stopped for bratwurst (in plastic), sauerkraut (a watery mess), and a canned beer (rather than in one of the steins hanging over the bar). We knew the odds of finding that restaurant more than 45 years later were against us (as were many specific Steinbeck stops along the way). Most of the restaurants and fast food joints along U.S. 10 through here were of the chain variety.

In that we’d assumed we’d be unable to locate the restaurant, we simply pulled over and fixed our own brats and sauerkraut on our RV‘s gas stove. We washed it down with an ice-cold (and appropriate) German Beck’s (only one), though a local Minnesota beer might have been more fitting (we’d later discover Grain Belt, a tasty August Schell-brewed beer from New Ulm, Minnesota). I’d been stationed in Germany for three years, so this feast brought back both good (travel) and bad (the Army) memories.

While eating at the German restaurant, Steinbeck asked for directions to Sauk Centre and had a somewhat comical conversation with the waitress and cook concerning getting lost, not getting lost, and Sinclair Lewis. With clear directions to cross over the Mississippi at St. Cloud and get on U.S. 52 for Sauk Centre.

We easily followed these directions, though the old 52 is now actually part of I-94 for much of the way to Sauk Centre and beyond. Though we didn’t find the German restaurant, we found Sauk Centre–as did Steinbeck (for a few minutes).

The “Gopher Prairie” (as referenced in Lewis’ nobel prize winning novel Main Street) we found in Sauk Centre when we visited last year was a town of 3,915. It’s still somewhat surrounded by wheat, corn, dairies, and little groves. It’s Main Street (and Sinclair Lewis Avenue) is actually still very similar to other Main Streets anywhere in small town America, with open (and shut down) stores, a small hotel, several restaurants and cafés (including a friendly one called Jitters with internet access and comfortable chairs), a public library, and one or two small convenience stores. 

Last year, we visited the boyhood home of Sinclair Lewis and enjoyed a great tour. This year, we simply went by for a picture (Cele and the Winnebago are pictured in front of the house). This year, we spent the night at the Sinclair Lewis Campground. They would be closing soon for the season and the water was already off, so we only paid 10 bucks. As we chatted about our Sauk Centre visits over dinner, we still wondered why Steinbeck hadn’t spent more time here. As with many things about his trip, I guess we’ll never know.

After blowing right through Sauk Centre, Steinbeck continued his quick pace north on Route 71 to Wadena and then on to Detroit Lakes. Last year, we did the same, though we were definitely slowed by the pretty lakes along the way–as well as this great butcher shop near Detroit Lakes that sold freshly ground beef and various jerky flavors. We enjoyed grilled hamburgers (from cows, rather than bison) at Buffalo State Park just west of Detroit Lakes, where we once again were the only campers.

This year, we actually went back to Lake Carlos state park for a picnic lunch. We then spent the night at yet great another Minnesota State Park–Maplewood. Fargo, North Dakota, is next.

I’m writing this in Forest City, Iowa, which is the legendary long-time home of our RV manufacturer, Winnebago. This is our second trip here and our love affair with our Winnebago (and the company) continues.
Loyal Winnebago owners head to Forest City for many reasons, including: an award-winning factory tour (see picture) that highlights the high-quality manufacturing process of the largest RV producer in the world; a great Customer Service center (we had some minor work done by the very friendly staff); and an annual mid-summer rally that attracts more than 1,500 RVs (some who have owned many Winnebagos over the past 49+ years the company has been making them). Winnebago will mark their 50th anniversary in 2008!
In Steinbeck’s Travels with Charley, he gave a brief overview of his truck camper–praising the engine and ingenuity of its design. We thought our stop in Forest City provided the perfect opportunity to do the same.
In short, we love our Winnebago and probably won’t buy another brand (and we do plan to be lifetime RVers). We own an Outlook 27L, which has all of the features we wanted in our first RV without being too big. Amenities we wanted and have really enjoyed include: a queen size bed; two slideouts that greatly expand the living room and bedroom; an entertainment center with large TV, stereo system, and lots of storage space to replace the standard over-the-cab bed; and a powerful Ford E450 chassis (I always wanted to own a Ford “truck“).
Many people have asked us about a typical day on the road with our Winnebago and I thought I’d provide a brief overview. We’re trying to average about 150 miles a day, but will stay somewhere we like for two or three nights (and make up the mileage later with some 200- or 300-mile runs). Although this doesn’t sound like a lot of miles, our goal, as was Steinbeck’s, is to see America…..not just drive by.  Setting up at a campsite is incredibly simple and ranges from simply parking the RV when there’s no electricity or water hookups (we’re totally self-sufficient thanks to 12-volt batteries and a freshwater tank) to taking less than five minutes to plug into electricity and water, extend the slide outs, and maybe put out the awning if it’s sunny or rain is expected.
Once we’re set up, a typical evening might include: a campfire (most sites have fire rings); a taped movie or TV (by antenna or occasional campground cable hookup), checking email (many places now feature wi-fi); planning our next day’s driving and campground; and a gourmet meal prepared on our small charcoal grill or using the propane stove in our RV (we also have a microwave, small toaster oven, and slow cooker). As many readers know, we take meal preparation very seriously and we’re definitely not starving on this trip. Like Steinbeck, we’ve enjoyed stopping for fresh ingredients like local eggs, produce (we rarely pass a farm stand, including many “honor” ones), and meats (we just bought some very fresh lamb at a Wisconsin farm).
Given what Steinbeck wrote about his very basic camper, we think he’d be blown away by modern RVs. He was always fascinated by quality transportation and we’re guessing he’d also be a Winnebago fan (and owner) if he were repeating his trip today.

Quite simply, like Steinbeck, we loved Wisconsin. He headed straight for the Wisconsin Dells, raving about the countryside along the way and waxing poetically about the beauty of the Dells once there.

Steinbeck also loved cheese and so do we. We stopped at several places when passing through the cheese “center” of Green County. Without doubt, one of our favorite stops was Baumgartner’s Cheese Store and Tavern in Monroe. This cheese and microbrew landmark provided our introduction to Wisconsin cheese (and tasty cheese sandwiches), as well as Berghoff beers–with the tasty cheese and beer “tour” provided by a really friendly local named Michael Connolly (who just happens to work for Berghoff and frequents Baumgartner’s).

After several more stops for tasting and buying cheese (as well as pasties for lunch at Red Rooster Café in Mineral Point), we headed for Wisconsin Dells (just like Steinbeck). Steinbeck’s prose made it apparent that he really enjoyed his time here (and so did we). He saw signs for “Swiss Cheese Candy,” but failed to buy any (we failed as well). He also visited a huge (and ironically landlocked) sea shell shop, which we learned is now out of business after a long and successful run selling sea shells far from the Atlantic or Pacific.

Among many Wisconsin highlights, we had one of our best meals of the trip at Del-Bar. This Wisconsin Dells landmark (see picture) was established in 1939, making us wonder if Steinbeck (who obviously enjoyed food and wine) didn’t also partake of a perfectly prepared steak paired with a nice red wine. It will be hard to top this meal (and the company of several Wisconsin natives who love their state–for good reason).

Without doubt, Wisconsin now rivals Maine as our favorite state of the trip–just like Steinbeck.

We left Elkhart and the new RV/MH Museum with an even greater appreciation of our Winnebago and the RV lifestyle. Chicago was our next stop, just like Steinbeck–he stopped at his favorite Windy City hotel and spent a few days with his wife, who flew in from New York.

And, just like Steinbeck, we had hoped to store our RV and stay at the legendary Ambassador East, but it wasn’t meant to be. They were sold out because of the Cubs being in the playoffs and the thousands of runners in town for the Chicago Marathon.

Though we couldn’t find room at Steinbeck’s preferred inn, we did create our own Windy City adventure. We stayed out at the appropriately named Windy City Campground in Tinley Park, where we could ride our bikes to the Metra stop and take a one-hour train into downtown.

There was a great Italian restaurant called Gatto’s near the campground, so we got to watch some baseball with the very friendly locals. We ended up telling several of them about our trip and plans to head to Wrigleyville the next morning. They then proceeded to hand-draw a detailed map outlining the best places to soak up the Wrigley atmosphere before the game.

We followed their map to the letter and really enjoyed the pre-game vibe around Wrigley (I have the picture to prove it). Though we wished we had tickets (ranging anywhere from $250 from bleacher seats to more than 1000 bucks for box seats), we saved our money and headed to Harry Carey’s. The atmosphere there was just as lively, with lots more friendly locals–however, a Cubs loss (and exit from the playoffs) definitely dampened our spirits.

We also found the Ambassador East and at least were able to re-create a part of Steinbeck’s visit. It’s a beautiful small hotel on a neighborhood-y side street. The Pump Room restaurant is lined with hundreds of black-and-white celebrity pictures, but we couldn’t find Steinbeck (he often registered under an alias).

When Steinbeck arrived at the Ambassador East, his room wasn’t ready. He was scruffily dressed (we were too), so the staff gave him a recently vacated room rather than have him plop down in the lobby (which is what we did). Though we didn’t get to re-create Steinbeck’s hilarious examination of the previous guest (who he called “Lonesome Harry”), we were still glad we went by one of his favorite hotels (and I have the picture to prove it).

We found an excellent KOA  just outside South Bend and very convenient to Elkhart’s new RV/MH Museum. Though we often stay in state parks without water or electrical hook-ups for our Winnebago, we also like to “splurge” with occasional KOA stays–including enjoying cable TV, wi-fi, and more!

Quite simply, the museum was excellent. As RV owners and big fans of the lifestyle, we probably appreciated it more than non-RVers. However, museum officials are finding that non-RVers (especially those considering a purchase) are also really enjoying a museum visit–thanks to the super industry display (see www.GoRVing.com) of various new models with all of the bells and whistles.

We really enjoyed looking at the new models and dreaming about our next Winnebago (they had a great Class A on display), but our favorite part of the museum was definitely the display of more than 20 older RVs of all types dating from 1913. We couldn’t resist spending time at each of them (see picture) and comparing them to our Winnebago Class C. While many amenities have been added (like TV), the setup and layout of RVs is amazingly similar more than 75 years later! The slide-outs that are so popular for expanding space today were actually invented more than seven decades ago (they were called “telescoping apartments”)!

While the display of older RVs will be greatly expanded in 2008, we left with a much better appreciation of the history of RVing. We can highly recommend this museum to RVers and non-RVers alike!

We really enjoyed the rest of our time in Canada and the crossing back into the U.S. went very well. After a tough detour right through the heart of Detroit (and past old Tigers Stadium), we made our way to Ann Arbor–following the apparent route Steinbeck took into and through Michigan.

We couldn’t resist stopping at Zingerman’s in Ann Arbor. This foodie institution in now much more than a deli. I first learned about Zingerman’s through my favorite novelist (and fellow foodie), Jim Harrison. We split a great corned beef and pastrami sandwich and also bought a couple of excellent bagels. We didn’t get to visit their other locations, including a restaurant, bakery, and more–but, we’ll be back!

After another excellent state park experience (this one in Michigan) we cut down into Indiana because we wanted to check out a brand new RV museum in the long-time RV “capital” of Elkhart. We’re not big museum people, but this place would prove to keep our attention for hours!

We did what Steinbeck couldn’t–go into Canada to cut across to Michigan. That was his plan, but he was turned back at the border because he didn’t have a rabies vaccination certificate for Charley (Cele‘s passport and other papers were in order). He had to take I-90 around Erie and Cleveland, while we were able to cross into Canada, enjoy Niagara Falls on that side, and then cut through Ontario along Lake Erie.

We thoroughly enjoyed our first visit to Niagara Falls and were really glad we did it on the less commercial Canadian side. After a very easy border crossing (the line going into the U.S. was more than a mile long over the Peace Bridge to Buffalo), we took the recommended drive right up the Niagara River to “the Falls.”

We went for the Niagara Falls Great Gorge “Adventure Pass”, which provided admission to a number of attractions, as well as coupons for discounts to other stuff. The experience we’ll remember for a lifetime is taking a “Maid of the Mist” boat right to the base of the Falls (see picture), where we wore raincoats (but still got wet) and could feel and see the power of Niagara Falls. We also got many great views (and pictures of the Falls), as well as heading behind and below them through their “Journey Behind the Falls” offering.

Steinbeck wrote that he had visited the Falls (on the U.S. side) so that he could always say he’d seen them. Now, we can do the same–but we’re betting we had a better experience (he loved boats, but doesn‘t mention boarding the “Maid of the Mist“)!

After leaving Niagara Falls, we found a Provincial Park (sort of like our state parks) near Lake Erie and plan to follow the coastline all the way to Windsor and back into the U.S. at Detroit (Steinbeck’s original plan).

I’m writing this on Lake Ontario at very windy Selkirk Shores State Park. We’ve enjoyed an eventful week since leaving Maine last Monday, generally following Steinbeck’s route through New Hampshire, Vermont, and New York to Lake Ontario.

We couldn’t resist passing through the quaint Maine town of Bethel and heading back to Sunday River Brewing Company for some great smoked meats paired with microbrews. Susan Duplessis, long-time friend from up on the mountain, even came down to see us.

We then passed into New Hampshire and stayed at Moose Brook State Park just outside Gorham. We try to stay in as many state parks as possible, in that they tend to provide more natural settings, large wooded campsites, and–often–great hiking, biking, and paddling. The White Mountains were providing prime fall colors–much more vivid than when we had passed through them ten days earlier.

The next morning, we headed into Vermont, with the plan to drive up to the Canadian border to follow Steinbeck’s stated route through Rouses Point at the northern tip of Lake Champlain. On the way, we had a great stop in the small (and very Vermont-like) college town of Johnson. As has often happened on this trip, a stop for a quick lunch turned into much more…we bought some Vermont maple syrup from Butternut Mountain Farm and an excellent Vermont cheddar, found a great little internet café for internet access, and I even lucked into a massage above the café.

We then stayed at a commercial campground on Lake Champlain before heading through Rouses Point and into New York. Steinbeck didn’t give his routing to Lake Ontario from there, so we decided to visit the fabled Adirondack’s for the first time. Again, we seemed to catch fall colors at their peak, enjoying a great two night waterfront stay at state-run Cranberry Lake Campground. We did an amazing hike up Bear Mountain (see picture) and we were able to ride our bikes into the cute little lakefront town of the same name, including a nice interlude at a typical Adirondacks lodge–where we couldn’t resist sitting outside in their quintessential Adirondack chairs. Before heading out of the mountains, we stopped to buy a tiny Adirondack chair for our Christmas tree and a walking stick for me (complete with a compass on the top–I share Steinbeck’s habit of getting lost).

The drive to Lake Ontario and Selkirk Shores State Park was relatively uneventful, though we did cross the Salmon River near Pulaski to see dozens of fishermen hauling in huge salmon. We stopped at a local place that was cleaning the freshly-caught fish for $3.00 each and the owner directed us to a place he thought we could buy some to grill for dinner. However–like moose in Maine–we learned that the local salmon can’t be sold commercially. The only salmon they could sell came from Lake Michigan.

We’ll next continue to follow Steinbeck’s route along Lake Ontario before dipping down to Canandaigua in the northern Finger Lakes. There, we hope to have a COPIA-like “foodie” experience at the New York Wine & Culinary Center. From there, we’re hoping to follow through on Steinbeck’s failed attempt to cut through Niagara Falls and into Canada for a shortcut across to Detroit. Steinbeck didn’t make it because he didn’t have rabies vaccination paperwork for Charley. We’re hoping Cele’s “papers” will be in order and we can take the Canadian cut-through Steinbeck had planned.

We’re leaving Maine this morning after ten wonderful days. After Eastport, we headed up U.S. 1 following Steinbeck’s exact route. Aroostook (“The County”) is unlike any other area in Maine (or the country). Steinbeck was drawn there by potatoes and people–we experienced both as well.

Our first stop was an organic potato farm we’d read about outside Bridgewater. Wood Prairie Farm. The friendly owners told us all about their operation and sold us a sample box with three different varieties. Their recommended preparation was simple baking and we tried all three tasty varieties that night. Our favorite was Rose Gold, thanks to a really crispy red skin and deep yellow flesh. We were a bit shocked at the price for eight pounds of potatoes ($30) and we’re sure Steinbeck would have been as well. To bring our average cost down a bit, we couldn’t resist stopping at one of many “honor” potato stands to buy a ten-pound bag of new potatoes–for $2.50!

We stayed at Aroostook State Park outside Presque Isle, where a friendly ranger told us about a super hike we’d enjoy the next morning. We then followed U.S. 1 all the way to it’s starting point in Fort Kent (it ends in Key West), before heading south to Millinocket and huge Baxter State Park (we loved all of Maine’s state parks).

In Millinocket we visited with the owner of New England Outdoor Center, checking out his whitewater rafting offerings, boating on Millinocket Lake at sunset (see picture), camping, cabins, and gourmet restaurant. He also loaned us his truck (these Maine-ers are really friendly), so we could head up to nearby Baxter State Park in search of moose. Our “wild moose chase” didn’t result in a moose sighting, but we really enjoyed exploring this classic state park (more than 200,000 acres!).

Next, we finally headed west for the first time and won’t stop until we get to Seattle! We loved stopping at local meat markets and found one yesterday that made all of their own sausages (we bought several, of course). We got into a long conversation with them about moose and they told us it couldn’t be sold commercially. The woman behind the counter then proceeded to tell us that this didn’t prevent her from giving us some–however, a quick call to her husband revealed he’d moved all of his moose stash out to his father’s freezer in the country. We just weren’t destined to see (or eat) moose in Maine!

We spent our last night in the state camping (and paddling) on the Kennebec River. We’ll head toward more fall colors in New Hampshire, Vermont, and New York today.

I’m writing this in Eastport, the easternmost town in the United States (we enjoyed a very early sunrise this morning). Steinbeck passed through nearby Perry on his way into northern Maine.

Since I last wrote, we’ve re-traced Steinbeck’s route through eastern Vermont, the White Mountains of New Hampshire, and into Maine. We even pursued many of Steinbeck’s stops during this stretch, including buying fresh and very crisp Cortland apples and freshly pressed apple cider.

We also stopped by a “package” store, in that Steinbeck had seriously stocked up on liquor to create a small bar for company. His purchases included applejack, which he mentions enjoying several times on the trip. We’d already done some research on applejack (and apple brandy), finding that New Jersey’s Laird & Company is a centuries-old producer (George Washington loved it). It’s very likely that Steinbeck bought this brand, so we did as well (to keep it authentic on cold Maine nights).

New Hampshire’s leaves were just starting to turn and we think they’ll put on more of a show when we return through the area in a week or so (with Steinbeck showing us the way). Meanwhile, in Maine, we’ve really enjoyed following Steinbeck’s route “Down East” right up the coast.

On the way up U.S. 1, he stopped off in Deer Isle to visit a friend of his agent’s. After crossing the high suspension bridge and lower S-curve bridge Steinbeck mentions, we found Deer Isle and it’s main town of Stonington to be much as Steinbeck must have seen it. Though we couldn’t find the combination hardware-chandlery store Steinbeck mentions visiting in Stonington (he bought a kerosene lamp), we did enjoy the town’s architecture–which Steinbeck correctly compared to Dorset’s Lyme Regis.

After Deer Isle, we followed Steinbeck’s apparent route up the coast, enjoying the Maine scenery all along the way. Once at a waterfront campground just a mile outside pretty Eastport (our favorite stop of the trip thus far), we inflated our kayaks to paddle Passamaquoddy Bay (see picture). The bay separates the U.S. from Canada, which we can see from our RV.

After kayaking, one of the other campers told us about an end-of-season dinner the campground was hosting. We couldn’t resist an all-you-can-eat menu of steamed clams, fresh corn, and grilled steak, served up by locals and seasonal campers in the great outdoors. As the temperature dropped (it was supposed to get down to around 32 last night), the party moved to the indoor bar and restaurant (where we may try fresh-caught lobster or haddock tonight). Today, we’re going for a hike along the coast Shackford’s Head State Park and then biking into Eastport for lunch.

I’m writing this near the foot of the White Mountains of New Hampshire and we’ll be passing through them today on the way to Maine (just like Steinbeck). Fall colors are just starting to turn, as they appeared to be when Steinbeck passed through this pretty area. We camped near a nice stream (I couldn’t resist a brisk swim), but “roughing it” here meant cable TV and wi-fi. After enjoying our first campfire, I was able to watch the A-Braves lose on ESPN and the R-Braves lose on MiLB.tvL . Cele watched Top Chef on our tiny bedroom TV (a Christmas present from me).

Yesterday (just like Steinbeck) we visited Eaglebrook, a prep school in Deerhurst, Massachusetts. Steinbeck had gone there to visit his son and ended up having as many as 15 students at a time inside his truck camper.

Steinbeck complained about the longish detour needed to get to Deerhurst, but we enjoyed the drive through Massachusetts. Once we reached the sprawling campus (after detouring around a low railroad bridge Steinbeck probably was able to pass under), we found the campus buzzing with students and parents in the midst of registration. They either start school earlier or Steinbeck was there slightly later than us (the likely scenario, in the Hurricane Donna had delayed his departure).

Today, we’re going in search of apples, apple cider, and maybe even some applejack (just like Steinbeck). After passing through the heart of the White Mountains on a scenic drive in our great Michelin map, we’ll head into Maine to visit a friend in Augusta before heading to Deer Isle in search of another Steinbeck-like adventure.

Be forewarned, fair readers, that this is a long-winded blog entry and most future ones won’t be nearly as lengthy. I have much to tell.

We “officially” started the trip yesterday with our departure from Sag Harbor. We’d already driven 850 miles to get to the exact point where Steinbeck departed on his trip back in 1960.

We had a great day in Sag Harbor, with our advance research and reading proving very helpful. We found a great parking spot for our RV right along the water and headed for the visitor information office. Located in a windmill, the visitor info office was closed. However, the windmill did have a plaque honoring Steinbeck’s time in Sag Harbor (see picture).

We needed a map of town and found one in a nearby real estate office (always a good bet when traveling). We’d heard from a local tourism person that Steinbeck’s Sag Harbor home was off (fittingly enough) John Street and a non-fiction piece that Steinbeck wrote in 1957 (“My War with the Ospreys”) suggested that his house was near Jesse Halsey Lane out on Bluff Point.

Yesterday morning, we followed these clues and peaked in backyards for the small writing gazebo we knew he used. Though we did find a house called “East of Eden,” which was definitely not Steinbeck’s former house, we failed to find what we were certain was the right one.

We headed back into the main part of quaint Sag Harbor and stopped by a great little local grocery store called Schiavoni’s Market. It’s part of the IGA system and we always like to patronize these independent grocers when possible.

Schiavoni’s was unique, in that it’s evidently been run by several generations of the Schiavoni family since the mid-1950s. There were some great black-and-white photos from those early years and we’re certain that Steinbeck must have frequented this great grocer. He mentions taking lots of canned goods in Rocinante (the name he had given his truck camper), so we couldn’t resist buying some cans of stuff we really didn’t need–or the great Long Island duck breast!

After lunch (not the duck yet) overlooking the water in our RV, we stopped by a small bookshop (a favorite travel activity) and asked the man there about the house. He knew exactly which one it was and even showed us a picture of the writing gazebo. This made it easy to return to Bluff Point and find the house, which provided a fitting start to our trip!

The small house, surrounded by giant oaks and “a thousand Japanese black pines” evidently planted by Steinbeck, was just as I’d pictured–and so was the writing gazebo. We couldn’t resist getting pictures of both the house and the gazebo.

We then drove the RV down the exact roads Steinbeck must have driven to get to the first of three ferries that would eventually take him to New London, Connecticut. These ferries would help him (and us) avoid New York traffic (of course, we couldn‘t help thinking about Manhattan on 9/11).

Steinbeck had actually planned to start his trip right after Labor Day, but his departure was delayed by Hurricane Donna (which struck Long Island on September 12^th, 1960). It appears he left soon thereafter, but we’ve seen conflicting dates. There’s an account in Travels with Charley of Steinbeck saving his boat during Donna, for those interested.

To get to the charming town of Greenport, we took the same two ferries Steinbeck mentions using. He also says the day was crisp and clear–our weather was certainly crisp, but it was actually quite foggy. We’d found a great campground just outside of Greenport that had wi-fi (what would Steinbeck think?) and that’s where I’m typing this blog.

Once at the campground, the owner told us about nearby wineries worth a visit–and we couldn’t resist. Thus, we tasted some interesting whites and reds at a beautiful winery called Pindar and a new sister winery and tasting room called Duck Walk. We bought a nice crisp white and a meritage blend, in that we likely won’t be in a wine region again until Washington (the state).

Before going back to the campground to set up and download more than 800 emails, we headed into Greenport proper to check out this incredible restaurant called Claudio’s. Believed to be the oldest restaurant in the U.S. that’s still run by the same family, this classic place on the waterfront opened in 1870. We sat at the original wood and marble bar and the bartender proceeded to give us a history lesson while we enjoyed a cup of very thick and tasty New England clam chowder–washed down with a draft Peroni (Italian influence) for me and local cab for Cele. The fourth generation owners were enjoying an early dinner just down the bar from us, but we had dinner plans of our own.

Back at the campground, we found the internet to be fast and the air off Long Island Bay quite chilly. Instead of outside grilling (our norm when camping), we decided to pan sear fresh tuna caught off nearby Montauk. To complete the Long Island theme, we opened one of the local whites we’d purchased.

This morning, we have a reservation (required for RVs) for the ferry from Orient Point to New London. We’ll then follow Steinbeck’s route up to Massachusetts, where he visited the school one of his sons was attending. With finding his Sag Harbor home and taking the same ferries, we really feel like we’re on our way. However, we’re hoping the next 10,000 miles or so will generally be easier than our first 850–for those interested, a long-winded summary of the trip to Sag Harbor follows….

Once Labor Day passed (and the crowds left) back in North Carolina, we decided to get to Steinbeck’s starting point as quickly as possible. Thus, we headed up through eastern North Carolina and Virginia to take the Chesapeake Bay Bridge-Tunnel to the Eastern Shore and Delmarva. The Bridge-Tunnel (especially the tunnel part) was a bit disconcerting in the RV, but we knew we’d be crossing many other more intimidating bridges in the days and months down the road.

After a nice evening at Kiptopeke State Park outside Cape Charles (including kayaking in the Chesapeake Bay), we headed up through Maryland to Delaware and the Lewes-Cape May ferry. We couldn’t resist stopping off at Dogfish Head Brewery to see our friend (Dogfish’s founder and owner), Sam Calagione. We have a feature about Dogfish in the current Southern Living.

Sam was in the midst of working on the memorial service for famed beer journalist Michael Jackson, so we joined an in-progress (and popular) brewery tour (60+ people on a Friday!). After the tour and several tastes, Sam gave us several of his unique beers to take (and toast him) during our trip. They likely won’t last long!

The Lewes-Cape May ferry saved us a ton of driving time (and gas), allowing us to make our way up the New Jersey coast. To allow for a Sunday drive through New York City (we were hoping for less traffic), we stopped in Atlantic City for the night. While there, we got to enjoy an independent league baseball game at the Sandcastle, home of the Atlantic City Surf. We also couldn’t resist throwing away a few dollars at the Tropicana casino.

Our hope of avoiding New York City traffic went about as well as could be expected. We made it as far as Staten Island without mishap and even took the time to visit their beautiful minor league stadium, where the Single A Yankees play with a backdrop of the Statue of Liberty and Manhattan across the river.

An accident right before the towering Verazano Narrows Bridge meant we actually were one of just a few vehicles on the bridge as we crossed (I put the Winnebago smack-dab in the middle lane and looked straight ahead while Cele enjoyed a great view of Manhattan).

Once over in Brooklyn, we couldn’t resist heading to Fairway Market, an incredible grocery store we’d discovered before a cruise out of Brooklyn’s new cruise terminal. We stocked up on all the gourmet groceries our spacious RV could hold and left with the plan on being out on Long Island in an hour or so.

Two hours later, we found ourselves still in the heart of Brooklyn. We kept getting turned back on roads with low bridges or that only allowed passenger cars. It took us two hours to go less than ten miles, but we finally found a road meant for trucks and other tall vehicles. Mentally exhausted, we limped into a community-run campground in Old Bethpage, where we re-grouped and planned for the (much better) day that followed in Sag Harbor. Ironically, Steinbeck had similar problems at the end of his trip–when he wasn’t allowed to take Rocinante through the Holland Tunnel to his other home in New York City.

We started the packing process today, loading our Winnebago with all of our favorite things so that we had all the comforts of home. This includes: our favorite music for traveling and listening to while we are working; DVDs and videos that we’ve been collecting and recording to take along for entertainment; printers and office supplies to re-create our home offices; and the beginning of a grocery list. Even though we’ll be in a 27′ RV for the next 12 weeks or so, it doesn’t mean we have to rough it like Steinbeck did in his tiny truck camper! We’ll be packing and preparing all week with the majority of final preparation being done over the Labor Day weekend. Then…..we’re off to Sag Harbor for the official start of the trip!

We’re getting pretty excited as we reach the three week mark before departure…..we leave on our odyssey three weeks from today! Although Steinbeck traveled in a truck camper, Cele and I have opted to travel in a bit more comfort in our 27′ Winnebago Outlook, completely outfitted for three months on the road. In the next few weeks, we’ll be stocking ‘the big unit’ with all of the creature comforts of home and making sure that she’s in top condition. Steinbeck named his truck camper Rocinante…we call our Winnebago Seldon Scene II (a play on our favorite bluegrass band, Seldom Scene). Our beach house on Oak Island is known as Seldon Scene.