Wine Enthusiast....

DESTINATION SAVANNAH
The Georgia city knows how to turn on the Southern Charm

John Berendt’s novel-turned-movie, Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil, put Savannah on the map for many travelers more than a decade ago. Still, world-class accommodations, dining, and wine lists keep many coming back for more of a taste.

The “in” place to stay (and dine) in Savannah is Mansion on Forsyth Park. Just opened last spring, this 126-room contemporary hotel offers spacious rooms, more than 400 pieces of original artwork, optional butler service, and the luxurious Poseidon Spa. The Mansion’s 700 Drayton Restaurant has already earned its place on the short list of the city’s best restaurants, thanks to an eclectic menu and wine list, and an artsy upscale setting. (Pairing to try: The sea scallops with applewood bacon, creamed leeks, and salmon caviar with a glass of Foris Pinot Gris.) The 1888 Victorian building is also home to the Carriage Wine Cellar, and 700 Kitchen Cooking School. The latter typically offers two courses daily covering a variety of culinary themes. Inquire about Mansion packages (like the “Savory Savannah Sampler”) that include accommodations, classes, and more. (The Mansion on Forsyth Park and 700 Drayton, 700 Drayton Street, tel. 912-238-5158).

If you want to stay right in the heart of the historic district, you can’t miss Kehoe House, one of the city’s top historic inns. This restored 1892 mansion has 13 large rooms, each with its own decor, and serves wine, tea, and hors d’oeuvres every evening. Here, you'll also find one of the better Southern breakfasts in the region. The 16-room Ballastone Inn provides a similarly comfortable location, ambiance and experience, courtesy of owners Jennifer and Jim Salandi. (Kehoe House, 123 Habersham Street, tel. 912-232-1020. The Ballastone Inn, 14 East Oglethorpe Avenue, 912-236-1484).

Visitors who seek shelter in the historic district should head to the 68-room The Marshall House, which is nestled on Bourbon Street, among some of the city’s top restaurants. In fact, the hotel’s fairly formal 45 Bistro is well worth a reservation whether or not you’re staying in the hotel. Chef Ryan Behneman's osso buco is simply delectable. (The Marshall House and 45 Bistro, 123 East Broughton Street, tel. 912-644-7896).

The restaurant scene is also thriving in Savannah, and seems to be on the cusp of rivaling Charleston’s dining dynamics. Il Pasticcio is a locals' favorite. Its open, cosmopolitan feel and traditional Italian food and service share top billing with an Italy-heavy wine list full of super Tuscans. At just $99, the four-course chef's tasting for two is one of Savannah’s best dining deals. Another don’t miss Savannah selection is a Vida Restaurant & Wine Bar, whose menu always includes a creative "fresh catch of the day" entree; by-the-glass wines change daily--check the chalkboard for that day's selctions. (Il Pasticcio, 2 East Broughton Street, tel. 912-231-8888. a Vida Restaurant & Wine Bar, 113 West Broughton Street, 912-232-8432).

Located in a stately Georgian mansion built in 1771, The Olde Pink House offers a menu befitting the Old South. Whether you dine in one of the mansion rooms upstairs or in the basement-level , candlelit Planters Tavern, the menu is the same: fried green tomatoes, grits and the like, which this reviewer happily washed down with Conundrum, a five-variety white wine. Ask for a peak at the wine cellar, housed inside a former bank vault. (The Olde Pink House, 23 Abercorn Street, tel. 912-232-4286).

You’ll want to walk off those grits, and Savannah obliges with walking tours and ever-improving shopping. Either of the two visitors centers (one on Martin Luther King Boulevard and the other on River Street) can provide a map of historic points of interest. For shopping, the relatively new Savannah Wine Shop is already a hit with wine enthusiasts in search of hand-picked bottles rarely seen elsewhere. City Market and its environs (especially Broughton Street) provide a nice mix of national chains and local originals, including City Market’s Savannah’s Candy Kitchen. Ask them for a sample, and how to pronounce "pralines". (Savannah Wine Shop, 225 West Broughton Street, 912-232-3323. Savannah’s Candy Kitchen, 318 West St. Julian Street, 912-201-9501).

-Lynn Seldon