Modern Bride...

CANCUN, MEXICO

EVERYTHING FOR EVERY COUPLE

Si, Senor y Senorita, Cancun has everything for honeymooners. This year, the Mexican resort mecca of Cancun is celebrating 25 years of catering to the wishes of any couple. Many of these Cancun lovers have been (and will be) honeymooners celebrating the beginning of their life together, Mexican-style.

It's hard to believe that the concept of the Yucatan oasis of Cancun was generated by a Mexican government computer that was supposed to find the perfect vacation place for everyone. The computer certainly succeeded for honeymooners.

Whether you want to do everything or nothing at all, Cancun is an ideal honeymoon destination. After 25 years of experience and success, they know how to make honeymooners happy in Cancun.

A list of the possibilities lures lots of honeymooners (and those celebrating an anniversary with a return visit): 12 miles of pristine beaches and crystal clear Caribbean waters; a wide variety of accommodations options; local and international dining; every watersport and other sport imaginable; historic, cultural, and ecotourism excursions; shopping; and nightlife that can last until morning.

BUENO BEACHES

Cancun has evolved from a sleepy fishing village on the northeast corner of Mexico's Yucatan peninsula into one of the world's premier resort destinations. The area attracts more than 1.5 million smart visitors annually.

They come for the beaches. Miles of powdery white beaches seem made for romantic moonlit strolls and days of lounging by the sea. Because the island of Cancun is shaped like the number "seven," there are two very distinctive beach experiences. The bottom section of the "seven" features pounding surf and miles of pristine beaches. The top section of the "seven" faces the calmer Bahia de Mujeres, the body of water between Cancun Island and quaint Isla Mujeres, a small island popular with day-trippers.

One of the best things about Cancun's beaches is that they're all property of the federal government and visitors are welcome on any of them. This makes "beach hopping" a very popular pastime for honeymooners. It's easy to walk along the beach, picking perfect places for sand, sun, and a hotel lunch. Couples can also take the inexpensive shuttle bus to any of the 12 public-access entries to the beach.

Except for the tip of Punta Cancun, Cancun is one long beach. The sand is primarily made up of crushed white limestone, keeping it cool under foot. The beaches along the island's windward side--those facing the north, toward Isla Mujeres--offer the calmest water. The beaches along the island's long eastern coast face the Caribbean's crashing surf, though still fine for swimming.

A flag system has been instituted on the beaches to advise swimmers of water conditions: red or black means "danger," yellow means "caution," green or blue means "calm" or "normal," and white means "excellent."

One of the most popular beaches on Cancun is Playa Chac-Mool on Paseo Kukulkan. Even if a couple's resort beach seems perfect, Playa Chac-Mool's ideal setting, beachfront seafood restaurants, and dressing rooms make a visit easy and worthwhile.

Isla Mujeres is another popular beach outing, where swimming is one of the biggest draws. Besides the coarse white coral sand at El Carrafon beach, Playa Norte (the island's main beach) is also popular for beachcombing.

SUPER SPORTS

The beautiful beaches lead to the clear waters of the Caribbean Sea. Whether it's a quick dip or a major scuba diving excursion, watersports are hot on Cancun. Some of the options include: swimming, snorkeling, scuba diving, parasailing, sailboarding, sailing and yachting, and deep sea fishing.

Cancun is the perfect place for a snorkeling adventure, where floating face-down while holding hands and marveling at the marine life is a popular activity for couples. Just make sure to watch out for sunburn on your back!

Snorkeling equipment can be rented at any of Cancun's beachfront hotels with watersports concessions. Most couples who are seriously interested in snorkeling will want to plan at least one excursion to any of the four underwater national parks: Garrafon National Park, a coral reef off Isla Mujeres; Isla Contoy, a nearby wildlife reserve; Xel-Ha, a series of lagoons south of Cancun; and Chancanab Lagoon, a natural aquarium a few miles south of San Miguel in Cozumel. In addition, Xcaret, the 150-acre underwater theme park just south of Playa del Carmen, also offers unique snorkeling opportunities.

Scuba divers say that couples that dive together stay together. With diving, you always dive with a buddy, so who could be better than your new spouse. If you haven't tried scuba diving, Cancun is the perfect place to do it.

Scuba lessons and excursions are offered in Cancun by many operators. The companies offer a resort course (orientation) and dives to more than a dozen nearby reefs. Couples can also earn their scuba diving certification over a four- or five-day period.

Dives off Cancun feature visibility of around 100 feet, spectacular marine life, and much more. Dedicated divers may also want to head to Isla Mujeres for dive trips to the reefs at El Garrafon and the Cave of the Sleeping Sharks.

Cozumel, just a quick flight or ferry trip away, is Mexico's top dive destination and is world-renowned. It's easy for couples to plan an excursion to Cozumel, where there are dozens of dive shops and a wide variety of diving options, including Palancar, which has more than 40 dive sites.

Parasailing lets couples explore Cancun from above, rather than below, sea level. The sky-high experience is offered at many hotel beachfront watersports centers and at independent marinas. The average cost is $35 for eight minutes, but the experience is intoxicating and often turns out to be a honeymoon highlight. It's certainly a great way to take your love of eachother to new heights.

Sailboarding, or windsurfing, is continually gaining in popularity on this windswept island. At the public beach at Playa Tortugas, the International Windsurfer Sailing School offers rental equipment and gives lessons. On Sundays, there are windsurfing regattas at Club Cancun.

During the summer, some people sailboard on the ocean side, but primary activity takes place in the bay between the windward coast and Isla Mujeres. The national tournament is held here in July. Equipment rental is usually about $50 an hour, but many locations offer weekly packages. For novices, a class runs about $35 an hour.

There's little that's more romantic than sailing, so sailboats of varying styles and sizes are available at numerous marinas. A sunfish is probably a perfect fit for an intimate sail into the sunset together.

The annual Regata del Sol al Sol is a week-long event organized by the Isla Mujeres Yacht Club, which culminates in April or May when participants arrive from their departure point of St. Petersburg, Florida. After the regatta, the Regata Amigos circles Isla Mujeres.

Deep sea fishing and fly fishing are two of Cancuns greatest draws, attracting fishing enthusiasts from all over the world. The even-temperatured water and the wonderful variety of fish provide world-class opportunities year-round, although April through September draws some of the best fishing.

Most charters are for four to six persons and marinas can assist in putting a group together. However, they may be willing to take just one couple for a special fishing excursion. Charters typically include a captain, a first mate, bait, gear, and beverages.

There are plenty of marinas to choose from in Cancun, including Marina del Rey, Marina Aqua Ray, the Royal Yacht Club, Aqua Tours, and Club Lagoon. Charter prices vary greatly, but it's generally $300 for four hours, $400 for six hours, and $500 for the entire day.

March through July is the best fishing season off Cozumel, when sailfish, bonito, and dorado (mahi mahi) are prevalent. May through September, it's wahoo and kingfish. Marlin, barracuda, and red snapper are also found off Cozumel. Rates usually run about $250 for a half-day.

Isla Mujeres is popular with deep sea anglers during April and May, when marlin and sailfish are running in abundance. Small boats can take anglers to good cast-off locations.

When they're not in or on the water, sporting couples can also enjoy land-lubbing activities. The Cancun area also offers lots of tennis, golf, hiking, jogging, and more. There's even bullfighting on Wednesday afternoons.

CANCUN KEEPSAKES

There are many other ways to while away your days in Cancun. One of the most popular options is to go shopping for those perfect honeymoon memories. Cancun is a shopper's paradise.

Most hotels feature excellent shopping options, but there are also many popular shopping areas further afield. Some of the best possibilities include Flamingo Plaza, Mayfair Gallery, Kukulcan Plaza, Plaza Caracol, Plaza Lagunas, Coral Negro, Ki Huic, and Plaza Garibaldi. Along with great duty-free items, Mexican specialties include local crafts of all kinds, colorful hammocks, silver, and traditional clothing and rugs.

After you've shopped, drop by by one of the many tour operators for other Cancun activity ideas. Some of the many possibilities include: Wednesday afternoon bullfights; hotel-hopping; or a visit to downtown Cancun for a look at how the locals live.

MUCHO MAYANS

The Yucatan Peninsula is an area steeped in Mayan history and Cancun can serve as a perfect base for exploring several important Mayan archaeological sites--Chichen Itza, Tulum, and Coba. Cancun has become a gateway to the past, offering curious honeymooners an easy way to learn about one of the world's great ancient cultures.

Even couples who initially come to Cancun for the sun, sand, surf, and eachother decide to take archaeological excursions. They often come away with a greater appreciation of Mexico's history and the role of one of the finest early civilizations.

To accommodate visitors and meet the demand, a growing number of ground operators offer a wide variety of excursions to the three sites. To make an intelligent choice, you should know the main differences between the sites and learn the features offered by the various tour operators. Most hotels have tour desks that utilize a specific tour operator, but it's easy to shop around, checking travel guides, asking other visitors, and talking to the various vendors that approach vacationers about their excursions. It's also popular for couples to rent a car for one day or hire a driver and guide in Cancun, making the experience much more intimate and flexible.

Be sure to dress appropriately, avoiding over-exposure to the sun and wearing comfortable walking shoes. Sunscreen, insect repellent, and a water bottle are also highly-recommended.

Chichen Itza is an awe-inspiring experience, because it is one of the largest and best-restored ancient cities in Mexico. Located west of Cancun, Chichen Itza is a 2 1/2-hour trip and the group excursions last most of the day.

The site is two miles long and a half-mile wide, with buildings arranged in three major groups. It is open daily from 8am to 5pm and is definitely best early in the morning and late in the afternoon for those who choose to get there independently.

Chichen Itza existed from 450 to 1200, flourishing primarily in its last 300 years. The Mayan city was at some point taken over by the Toltecs, whose culture, ideology, and architecture were integrated with that of the Mayans. That process, however, remains an historical enigma, adding to the site's mystery.

The north section (Toltec Chichen Itza) and the south section (Mayan Chichen Itza) are what most visitors go to see. The largely unexcavated and unrestored section, Chichen Itza Viejo, is overgrown and deserted, but it is interesting to see the amount of work the restored sites required to achieve their present condition.

In the Toltec section, the most famous building is El Castillo, a pyramid about 100 feet tall, with a temple to Kukulkan at its summit. Vistors who are not claustrophobic can climb inside to the top of a smaller and earlier pyramid or they can climb the 365 outer steps to the summit for a spectacular view.

El Castillo embodies the Mayans' involvement with the calendar and the seasons. Not only do the steps number the days of the year, but the pyramid was built so that on days of the vernal and autumnal equinoxes (March 21 and September 23), the noon sun casts shadows that look like serpents crawling down from the heavens to the serpent heads at the base. This popular event should not be missed if you're honeymooning in Cancun during an equinox.

Nearby, there are also three temples: the Upper and Lower Temples of the Jaguars and the Temple of the Warriors. Other highlights include the site of a market, the Group of the Thousand Columns, a ritual ball court, a prone statue of Chacmool thought to be a sacrificial platform for human hearts. A ceremonial road leads to the sacred well, or Cenote, where human sacrifices were made for religious reasons.

The Mayan section contains buildings that are older and do not have the Toltec influence. The two most famous buildings are the Caracol (snail) and The Nunnery. The Caracol is an ancient observatory with a circular tower reached by a snail-like staircase that winds through its chambers. The Nunnery mistakenly got its name from the many small chambers that are reminiscent of a convent.

Tulum's greatest asset is probably its stunning location on a cliff overlooking the shimmering blue Caribbean. A protective stone wall encloses the landward side of the only known Mayan fortified town on the coast. One of the Mayans' last settlements, Tulum flourished from 1200 to the time of the Spanish conquest.

Though not an extensive site like Chichen Itza, it's impressive location, convenience to other coastal and inland activities, and unusual architecture make it a favorite with many couples. It's just 80 miles south of Cancun and is the easiest archaeological day-trip. A trip to Tulum is also easily combined with other attractions along the Cancun-Tulum Corridor (see below).

Inside the 11- to 17-foot stone wall that surrounds Tulum on (the cliff side is a sheer drop down to the sea) is a second wall protecting the sacred temple area. The Temple of the Frescoes is named for the traces of original paintings on its inner walls.

Perched on the edge of the cliff is the Castillo, a palace base with a temple perched atop it. The view, a carving of a diving god, and walls that slope inward are the highlights here. Visitors can also walk down to the beach for a swim in under the watchful eye of Mayan history and culture.

Hours at Tulum are also 8am to 5pm. Inclusive tours usually cover transportation, admission, and lunch. Many tours also include visits to one or more other attractions along the coast or to the ruins at Coba. Tulum's location also makes it easy to rent a car or private tour guide for the most flexibility.

Coba is thirty miles west of Tulum. This huge Mayan city flourished from 600 to 900, preceding Chichen Itza's three-century heyday. The lofty pyramids and buildings are reminiscent of those further south in Guatemala at Tikal and it is thought that Coba was a trading center where southern Maya came to buy northern goods.

Only a small amount of excavation has thusfar taken place at Coba, which was only discovered in 1891. It is deep in the jungle and escaped the notice of the Spanish conquerors. In that some hiking is required, a visit to Coba is most appropriate for adventure-minded couples.

The site includes five lakes with four groups of buildings: the Coba Group, the Macanxoc Group, the Conjunto de las Pinturas, and Nohoch Mul. Each group has a notable structure.

In the Coba Group, a nine-level pyramid is just 20 feet shorter than Chichen Itza's Castillo. The Macanxoc Group has a number of commemorative stone pillars that depict female leaders standing on their captives, scattered through several fields. The Conjunto features the Temple of the Painted Lintel, while Nohoch Mul has a pyramid 20 feet taller than the one at Chichen Itza. Hours at Coba are also 8am to 5pm.

There's much more to Cancun excursions than ruins. Many couples also make day-trips to Isla Mujeres or along the 100-mile stretch of coastline south of Cancun to Tulum, called the Cancun-Tulum Corridor.

ROAD (AND WATER) TRIPS

Isla Mujeres is located just seven miles from Cancun, but the "Island of Women" is in another world. Excursion trips and ferries take visitors to this quiet island, where popular activities include shopping, snorkeling, swimming, island tours, and dining. It's a great way to spend a day.

Another popular way to spend a day is exploring the 100-mile Cancun-Tulum Corridor coastline along Highway 307. Though tour operators feature several stops along this incredible stretch, it's much more flexible to rent a car or hire a driver for the day.

The coastline south of Cancun features many great beaches, quaint towns, history, shopping, dining, and popular tourist attractions. Most visitors eventually end up at Tulum by mid-day, but those in the know avoid the crowds by driving straight to Tulum early in the morning and then making their way back up the coast during the day. All along the way, dirt roads lead to dreamy beaches, as well as several tourist stops.

Puerto Moreles, just 20 miles out of Cancun, is a great place to stop for local color and food. The beach is rarely crowded and the people are quite friendly. This growing fishing village is also a place to catch the ferry for Cozumel. For flora fans, the Dr. Alfredo Barrera Marin Botanical Garden is two miles south.

Couples looking for a small-scale Cancun will enjoy Playa del Carmen, another 20 miles down the road. Along with local dining, shopping, and accommodations, there's also a ferry to Cozumel.

Just five miles further sits Xcaret, surely one of the most unusual attractions in all of Mexico. This Disney-like attraction seems to have it all: a beach, snorkeling, caves, an underground river, dolphin encounters, horseback riding, Mayan ruins, flora and fauna, shopping, dining, and almost anything else you could imagine. Called "Nature's Sacred Paradise," Xcaret has become one of the most popular Yucatan excursions (they run their own buses from Cancun).

The rest of the ride to Tulum features many more great beaches and stops. Some of the best beach spots include Paamul, Puerto Aventuras, Xpu-Ha, Kantenah Beach, and Chemuyil. Along with great stretches of sand, stops at Akumal and Xel-Ha feature some of the best snorkeling in the world.

South of Tulum, truly adventurous couples may want to visit the 1.3-million-acre Sian Ka'an Biosphere Reserve. This huge nature reserves features an incredible array of plants and animals. You can arrange a visit by calling the Amigos de Sian Ka'an in Cancun at 84-95-83.

Back in Cancun, there's lots to do after a day at the beach or a busy day of activities. Whether it's delectable dining or world-famous nightlife, Cancun continues to please couples until long after sunset (see sidebar).

From a romantic sunrise on the beach until you finally fall asleep to the Mexican breeze, Cancun has it all for honeymooners. Si, Senor y Senorita, Cancun can be your ideal honeymoon destination.

DINING & NIGHTLIFE IN CANCUN

One of your honeymoon highlights from Cancun will definitely be the dining. As with the everything else in Cancun, there's something for every couple's tastes.

Most restaurants serve dinner until 11pm or midnight, so there's no rush for couples looking for a romantic restaurant. Many outdoor cafes don't stop serving until 2am. There are numerous independent restaurants in the area, as well as excellent hotel choices.

Many restaurants offer a hybrid cuisine that is often referred to as Continental, though in Cancun it combines the freshest of seafood, elements of Yucatecan and Mexican cuisines, and a fusion of French, Italian, and American influences.

Couples should have at least one meal featuring Yucatecan specialties like poc chuc (grilled pork with pickeled onions and sour orange sauce); sopa de lima (lime-spiked chicken broth); venado tzic (venison marinated in vinaigrette); panuchos yucatecos (fried tortillas filled with black beans and topped with meat or poultry, avocado, and pickled onions); pibil (pork or chicken baked in banana leaves, with a tangy sour-orange sauce); codzitos (rolled tortillas in pumpkin-seed sauce); papadzules (tortillas piled high with hard-boiled egg in pumpkin-seed and fried tomato sauce); and grilled seafood marinated in lime juice.

Though there are many excellent choices, some restaurant recommendations include:

Blue Bayou (Hyatt Cancun Caribe). Cajun- and Creole-style seafood and meat, as well as Mexican specialties in a multi-level dining area of wood, rattan, plants, and a waterfall.

Bogart's (Hotel Krystal). Seafood and Mediterranean cuisine in an atmosphere like Rick's Cafe in "Casablanca."

Bucanero (Av. Coba). Lobster is the specialty in this romantic seafood eatery with a marine theme, candlelight, and piano music.

Carillo's (Calle Caveles). Nightly musical entertainment and a festive atmosphere, combined with delicious lobster specialties, make this a popular spot.

Chac Mool (next to Aristos Hotel). A romantic beachfront location, with candlelight and classical music.

China Moon (Camino Real Hotel). This is surely one of the best Chinese restaurants in Mexico, with Imperial Chinese cuisine, an elegant setting, and superior service making for a very special evening at this classic Cancun hotel.

The Club Grill (Ritz Carlton Hotel). Intimate, attentive, and very romantic, dinner at the Grill is elegant and the seafood and grilled meats are delicious.

El Mexicano (La Mansion-Costa Blanca Shopping Center). In a setting reminiscent of a hacienda pation, this large and festive restaurant provides a very special evening of lavish decor, regional cuisine, a folkloric show, a musical revue, and dancing.

El Pescador (Tulipanes off Av. Tulum, downtown, and a second location in Plaza Kukulcan, where it is called The Captain's Table). As the name says, this is a great place to go for seafood--shrimp, conch, lobster, octopus, stone crab, and much more.

Hacienda El Mortero (Hotel Krystal). Country cooking, featuring steaks and ribs in a plantation setting, which is enhanced by attentive service and strolling musicians.

La Dolce Viat (Av. Coba, downtown). Sophisticated Italian cuisine in elegant surroundings.

La Fondue (Plaza America on Av. Coba, downtown). French bistro cuisine includes onion soup, main dish fondues, and dessert fondues.

La Habichuela (near Palapas Park on Margaritas, downtown). A garden setting, with soft music, lots of greenery, and pastel linens make this retreat a romantic backdrop for well-prepared Mexican specialties and grilled seafood.

La Parilla (Av. Yaxchilan). Local cuisine and a strong local following can be found at this classic restaurant, which is one of Cancun's oldest.

Lorezillas (Paseo Kukulkan on the lagoon). This nautically-themed eatery features excellent seafood and lobster, with a perfect patio for watching the sunset.

Los Almendros (Av. Bonampak and Sayil, oppposite the bullring, with a second location in the Hotel Zone in front of the Convention Center). Tasty Yucatecan specialties are featured here, including a sampler plate.

Mi Ranchito (Av. Tulum at Av. Coba, downtown). Pinatas, balloons, sombreros, ebullient music, and grilled specialties make an evening here guaranteed fun, Mexican-style.

Perico's (Yaxchilan off Av. Coba). Designed like a Mayan house of sticks, this place always jumps with marimba and mariachi music, conga lines, entertaining waiters, eclectic decor, and an extensive menu of seafood steaks, and traditional Mexican dishes.

Rosa Mexicano (Calle Claveles west of Av. Tulum). Haute Mexican cuisine in a colorul setting, featuring music, candlelight, waiters dressed as charros (cowboys), and traditional flourishes like floral floor tiles and embroidered wall hangings.

Many casual restaurants in Cancun also function later in the evening as clubs, including Carlos 'n' Charlies, Senor Frogs (both on the lagoon across from Casa Maya), and Jalapenos (Paseo Kukulcan), which offers live reggae. Couples can expect lots of noise at zaniness at these Cancun classics.

Discos are magnets for the young and young at heart in Cancun. Currently, three of the hottest discos are Dady'O, La Boom (both on Paso Kukulkan), and Christine (Krystal Hotel). There are plenty of laughs at Coconuts Comedy Club. For a very special night, head to Azucar, Camino Real's elegant oceanfront bar, with talented Latin bands, dancing, and great service.

For local color, there are many options in the evening. A Mexican charreada (rodeo), including dinner, is held nightly at El Corral de JF (closed Sundays). At the Party Center, adjacent to the Convenion Center, live folkloric bands perform nightly in the central courtyard that provides access to clubs, bars, discos, and restaurants. Many of the resorts also have regularly-scheduled Mexican fiestas that include folkloric performances and dinner. Finally, a dinner cruise on the Cancun Queen makes for another romantic evening option.

HONEYMOON TRAVEL TIPS

GETTING THERE: Airlines serving Cancun from the U.S. include AeroMexico, Aero California, American, Continental, Mexicana, Northwest, and United.

GETTING AROUND: Most Honeymooners stay on Cancu Island in the hotel zone, using taxis and inexpensive convenient buses to explore the hotel zone and Cancun City.  Your hotel can help with taxis, tours, private guides, rental cars, and mopeds.

MONEY: The official currency is the peso. There's no need to exchange money before you leave--exchange houses and banks are everywhere.  Prices are typically quoted in both currencies and most places accept both for payment.  With the devaluation of the peso, it is often less expensive to use dollars of credit cards.

FORMALITIES: You'll need proof of citizenship (a valid passport or notarized birth certificate) and a tourist card (provided free by the airline). Keep your tourist card, because you'll need to turn it in when leaving the country (along with a departure tax of $11.50).

CLIMATE/CLOTHING: Shorts and casual cottons work great here. Bring a sun hat and plenty of sunscreen. You may want a jacket or dressier outfit or two for a few of the more elegant restaurants. Pack good walking shoes, which are essential for the archaeololgical sites.

FOR MORE INFORMATION: SEE THE "BOOKLETS FOR THE TWO OF YOU" SECTION IN THIS ISSUE OR CALL THE MEXICAN GOVERNMENT TOURISM OFFICE AT (800) 44-MEXICO. REGIONAL OFFICES ARE AT 405 PARK AVE., SUITE 1402, NEW YORK, NY 10022 (212) 838-2949; 1911 PENNSYLVANIA AVE., WASHINGTON, DC 20006 (202) 728-1750; 128 ARAGON AVE., CORAL GABLES, FL 33134 (305) 443-9160; 70 E. LAKE ST., SUITE 1413, CHICAGO, IL 60601 (312) 565-2786; 2707 N. LOOP WEST, SUITE 450, HOUSTON, TX 77008 (713) 880-5133.

GETTING MARRIED, MEXICAN-STYLE

It's easy to get married in Cancun or anywhere else in Mexico. Many Cancun resorts offer a wide array of wedding services, offering a convenient and cost-effective way of getting the services desired. Some resorts include basic wedding services as part of a stay at their property, with many additional touches available through local vendors. From ship to shore, almost anything is possible when it comes to Cancun weddings.

At least two weeks before a Mexican-style marriage, you need to contact your hotel or the Cancun City Council directly. They can provide a registration form, which must be completed. You must also inform them whether you will provide all or some of the four witnesses required for the ceremony.

Couples must bring the following to Cancun: tourist cards, birth certificates, blood tests, passports or drivers licenses, final divorce decrees (if applicable), and names of the witnesses (including addresses, ages, nationalities, and tourist card numbers). Then, it's just a matter of saying, "Si!"