Cruise Critic....

BEST CRUISES FOR NATURE LOVERS

On a recent nature-oriented cruise to Antarctica aboard the Marco Polo, we were anchored and sitting out on the sunny deck for lunch when the ship was suddenly surrounded by playful penguins. On shore, less than 100 yards from the bow there were thousands more watching us with as much curiosity as we did them.

For lovers of natural wonders, nothing beats the up-close-and-personal experiences encountered while sailing a ship -- and an itinerary – specifically designed for them. Nature-loving seafarers may spot hundreds of blue-footed boobies in the Galapagos Islands, families of brown bears munching on freshly caught salmon in Alaska, or dazzling natural snow and ice sculptures in Antarctica.

However, soft adventure cruising is quite a different, er, animal, from what most know as the more traditional style of cruising. On our more than a dozen nature-oriented voyages over the past decade, we’ve learned a thing or two to pass on.

*Most ships are low-key, without big shows and casinos, and entertainment is usually limited to evening lectures by onboard naturalists.

*Unlike many typical cruises, fellow passengers are frequently more academic and/or adventurous types, with scientists, birdwatchers, and mountain climbers often onboard.

*Informality is typically the key: Passengers ditch the fancy duds and pack lightly.

*The ships' generally smaller sizes frequently allow access to areas unreachable by mega-liners. Most use inflatable boats to maneuver small groups for nature watching and more, so passengers should be physically comfortable and confident with boarding a small boat in occasionally rough seas.

*Few expedition ships offer children's programs, but they sometimes accept youngsters when there are special family cruises.

*Excursions are often complimentary (and, often, there’s only one choice--go view nature!).

*Per diem costs of a majority of nature-oriented cruises tend to be higher than a more traditional style of cruise. For instance, a seven-night Alaska cruise with Princess and other large lines can be found online starting at $100 to $150 per person, per day, while a similar-length Alaska cruise with the likes of Cruise West or Glacier Bay Cruiseline (with many shore excursions) may start in the $200 to $250 or more range (per person, per day, double occupancy).

Considering your first soft adventure cruise? Here’s a rundown of our favorites, by region:

*Alaska

Try: Glacier Bay Cruiseline

Why: Glacier Bay’s “all-American” crew members are truly passionate about this unique U.S. state and the line has long experience sailing there. Key, too, is the fact that its ships are small, hosting from 34 to 96 passengers.

Best features: Glacier Bay was the first to introduce kayaks, which are fantastic for quietly approaching nature. While most ships are traditional in shape and style, the line also features a newly refurbished catamaran; its 49-passenger flagship, Executive Explorer, sails in southeast Alaska.

Beware of: The company rates its itineraries by activity level from low (scenic cruising or viewing wildlife from a sedentary post) to high (using the ship as a resting point during a busy daily schedule that might include kayaking and more adventurous exploration) -- so choose carefully.

*Central America

Try: Cruise West’s Pacific Explorer

Why: The 100-passenger vessel can anchor in remote parts of Costa Rica and Panama that larger vessels (and even roads) don’t reach.

Best features: Seeing remote Central America villages and the unique flora and fauna surrounding them. This small ship offers a unique view of the Panama Canal transit, as well as visits to a Kuna Indian village where colorful molas and prized purchases.

Beware of: If you aren't passionate for bird watching, you may find fellow birding passengers a bit over the edge.

*Amazon/South America

Try: Iberostar Grand Amazon

Why: Lots of big ship lines offer cruises on the Amazon river, but the best way to genuinely get a feel for not only its nature aspects but also its culture is to sail on a smaller ship (the truly adventurous can book passage on typical bring-your-own-hammock Amazon River vessels; we recommend cruising in a bit more comfort). What we like about Iberostar, a hospitality company that operates hotels and small ships in the region, is that it knows its way around.

Features: On the 144-passenger Grand Amazon, there are three basic itineraries. In each case, daytime activities feature excursions on smaller boats to explore dense virgin vegetation, including a wide range of species of trees, plants, and animals, as well as local river communities; fishing classes are another option. At night we love the live music shows and low key theme parties.

Beware of: The guilt you'll feel living in such luxury after visiting very basic local villages.

*The Galapagos Islands

Try: Celebrity Xpedition

Why: This 94-passenger ship, part of a relatively new spin-off venture from Celebrity Cruises, offers the best mix of genuine nature-style cruising and the softer, more indulgent touches that come with Celebrity’s own distinctive style (particularly in its culinary offerings but also in onboard entertainment).

Best Features: Seeing animals like blue-footed boobies and then returning to a ship featuring Michel Roux-influenced menus.

Beware of: The long flights involved with Galapagos visits (plan a pre- or post-stay in and around the fascinating city of Quito, Ecuador); Celebrity offers a cruise/land tour package that’s a good value (and offers a bit of respite between cruise and home).

*Antarctica (by larger ship)

Try: Orient Lines’ Marco Polo

Why: The former research vessel with its steel-reinforced hull has been sailing to Antarctica every winter (which is summer in Antarctica) for many years -- it's the most experienced large ship in the region and it boasts a loyal group of passengers that returns to the ship and region every year. First-time Antartica visitors may also like the way this large ship acts in the big seas often experience down this way. 

Best Features: Marco Polo, though one of the oldest cruise ships afloat, has all of the amenities a 826-passenger ship can offer -- such as full Broadway-style shows and other entertainment, a casino, and many lounges.  But this ship, which spends the rest of the year in less exotic climates, makes concessions to the region by limiting its passengers to half its capacity and offering a wide array of complimentary shore excursions in inflatable rafts with a naturalist guide. It's the best combo of nature viewing and comfort in Antarctica.

Beware of: A lack of actual landings on the Antarctic continent. Also, beware of fellow passengers interested in spending more time with casino chips than enjoying the region's natural wonders. 

*Antarctica (by smaller ship)

Try: Lindblad Expeditions' National Geographic Endeavour

Why: The combination of 116-year old National Geographic and quarter-century Antarctica expert Lindblad Expeditions is a winner, with an onboard and on-shore combo of luxury, expert expedition leaders and nature viewing that we find hard to beat on any size ship.

Best Features: The 110-passenger ship (with 61 outside cabins) is typical Lindblad, with up to six days devoted to exploring Antarctica proper (much more than many ships of any size), as well as even longer intineraries that also include the fascinating natural world of the Falklands and South Georgia.

Beware of: The longer intineraries offered by this ship (15 and 25 days!) are a plus for many, but the ship's size and time as sea may inevitably lead to some seasickness even for hard-core nature lovers.