Cruise Travel....

PORT OF THE MONTH:
SAN JUAN, PUERTO RICO

Puerto Rico’s capital of San Juan is an ideal cruise ship stop--and pre/post-cruise stayover city--in every way. With a Spanish name that translates to “Rich Port” in English, it’s easy to see why San Juan is one of the world's top cruise ports. As the gateway to the eastern and southern Caribbean, it is ideally situated to be a home, with some 250 cruises embarking each year.  One or more ships from a half-dozen major cruise lines call San Juan home.

Plus, thanks to San Juan’s excellent air service from the U.S. and Canada, the port has become a part of the “homeland cruising” concept for many passengers not wishing to stray too far from home. The numbers show an average of more than 1.2 million passengers cruise out of San Juan each year--600,000 of whom used San Juan as their port of embarkation! This all makes San Juan (and the entire island of Puerto Rico) rich with possibilities for pre- and post-cruise stays.

But San Juan’s popularity as a port was established long before the first cruise ship ever called there--and even long before the first tourist set foot in the city! Ships have been heading into protected San Juan Bay since the days before Columbus and the city’s history is a fascinating blend of Spanish, African, and Taino cultures--and American ways.

Columbus “discovered” Puerto Rico on November 19, 1493, but it was already inhabited by Taino Indians. He originally named the island San Juan Bautista (Saint John the Baptist), with the name sticking for the port into which he sailed, but not for the island.

Juan Ponce de Leon, a peer of Columbus, was appointed the island’s first governor and eventually established a small settlement on the north side of the harbor (now Old San Juan) in the early-1500s. Thanks to the settlement’s strategic location, San Juan would eventually play an important role in the Spain’s struggle for political control in the Caribbean.

Uprisings for independence were constant--even more so after the abolishment of slavery in 1873, Spain finally granted Puerto Rico autonomy in 1897. However, after the Spanish-American War, Puerto Rico came under the control of the United States. During the 20th century, Puerto Ricans gained many rights, including U.S. citizenship in 1917 and the right to elect their own governor in 1948. The island was granted Commonwealth status in 1952.

All of this history makes the cruise ship piers an ideal place to start an exploration of San Juan. The metropolitan city is roughly divided into three parts: Old San Juan (where the cruise ships dock); the Beach & Resort Area (with beachfronts at Condado, Miramar, Ocean Park, Santurce, and Isla Verde); and the Surrounding Communities (Bayamon, Carolina, Catano, Guaynabo, Rio Piedras, and Trujillo Alto).

Old San Juan offers one of the most convenient and historic cruise ship docks in the world. It’s ideal for exploration by foot, with walks ranging from a few blocks to a few miles. There’s also a free trolley (take the Northern route to see Old Juan’s history or take the Central or Puntilla routes to go shopping).

Cruise ships dock on the protected southern side of Old San Juan, right on Paseo Gilberto Concepcion de Gracia (on busy port days, some cruise ships may also dock across the bay, on Isla Grande, which is just a few minutes taxi ride away). To the left, the yellow building with the fountains out front has a helpful Tourism Information Center, called La Casita. Maps, brochures, and more will make an exploration of Old San Juan (and further afield) even easier. Old San Juan highlights include City Wall, San Juan Gate; El Morro (Castillo de San Felipe del Morro); Castillo de San Cristobal; La Fortaleza; and El Arsenal de la Puntilla.

The massive City Wall surrounding much of Old San Juan is an ever-present part of the city. Begun in the 1630s, it features two 42-foot-high parallel walls that were built out of solid sandstone blocks and held together by mixtures of mortar, limestone, and sand. The thick walls were slanted for extra protection, with the base measuring about 20 feet in width and the top around 10 feet.

On the way to El Morro, along the waterfront Paseo de la Princesa, San Juan Gate is a pretty picture spot. The only remaining gate in the City Wall, it was originally built in 1520 and was once closed each night to protect against invaders..

Without a doubt, El Morro is one of the highlights of a visit to San Juan. The Spanish started building the fort back in 1540 and didn’t really complete it until 1786! Rising 140 feet above the sea and towering as high as six stories, El Morro is as formidable to tourists today as it must have been to ships (or soldiers) approaching it centuries ago.

Located on the other (eastern) side of Old San Juan, Castillo de San Cristobal provided a partner to El Morro in the developing port city’s defense. It was originally built in the 1630s and then re-done in the 1780s. It sits 150 feet above the water and features a network of five modular units that are connected by moats and tunnels.

Back near the cruise ship piers, in the heart of Old San Juan, La Fortaleza was originally a fort--but has spent the last few centuries as an executive mansion. Though the tower and gate date back to 1540, most of the architecture is from the 19th century. La Fortaleza was recently designated a World Heritage Site and a tour of the gardens is well worth it!

The southern point of Old San Juan features El Arsenal de la Puntilla. It was originally built in 1800, but came to fame in 1898 at the close of the Spanish-American War--as the point of departure for defeated Spanish soldiers heading back to Spain.

Of course, there’s much more to see and do in Old San Juan. History buffs will never tire of making new discoveries. Additional highlights worth exploring might include: interesting plazas and parks; art galleries; historic buildings; museums; and so much more. Just put on your walking shoes--or jump on the trolley--and start exploring.

There are six major plazas in Old San Juan. Parque de Las Palomas, Plazuela de la Rogativa, Plaza de Armas, Plaza San Jose, Plaza del Quinto Centenario, and Plaza Colon are all great choices for soaking up the city’s history, culture, and people (and maybe a little sun). Besides the forts, Old San Juan has a ton of historic buildings. The Catedral de San Juan provides a perfect example. Begun in 1540, the cathedral is a unique example of medieval architecture in the New World. Visitors should be sure to look for Ponce de Leon’s marble tomb, the stunning circular staircase, and the vaulted Gothic ceilings.

Started in 1532, Iglesia San Jose is the second oldest church in the Western Hemisphere. Elegant vaulted ceilings, many historic religious artifacts, and Ponce de Leon’s coat of arms are highlights here. The Capitolio de Puerto Rico, built in the 1920s, serves as the offices for senators and representatives. The Puerto Rico Constitution was approved there in 1952. The beautiful Teatro Tapia was built in 1832 and is one of the oldest theaters in the Western Hemisphere. It still hosts a variety of cultural events, including plays and musical concerts.

Depending on your interest, additional museum possibilities might include: Museo de San Juan (beautifully renovated and a great introduction to the city); Museo de las Americas (permanent and rotating exhibits covering pre-Columbian history to the present); Museo Pablo Casals (the Spanish master’s legacy to Puerto Rico’s people); Museo del Nino (a children’s museum); Casa Blanca (featuring a garden and a museum of 16th and 17th century family life); Instituto de Cultura Puertoriquena (paintings and sculptures).

Artwork and more is available to smart Old San Juan shoppers as well. The winding streets are lined with one-of-a-kind shops, ranging from arts and crafts only found on the island to duty free finds for those in the know when it comes to bargains. Many artists actually live in the area and the gallery scene is thriving.

If all that walking or shopping makes you hungry, Old San Juan’s streets are also lined with restaurants offering Puerto Rican dishes, international cuisine, and fine dining, as well as U.S. chains offering hamburger or pizza fixes. Some of the island’s oldest bakeries will also suit those with a sweet tooth.

Farther afield (a rental car, taxi, or tour operator is needed), San Juan’s Beach & Resort Area starts just outside Old San Juan. Condado, Miramar, Ocean Park, and Isla Verde all offer world-class hotels and resorts, watersports, restaurants, shopping, casinos, nightclubs, and, of course, great beaches. In addition, the relatively new Museo de Arte de Puerto Rico features beautiful grounds, a great restaurant, and exhibits that feature masterpieces of Puerto Rico artists from the last 500 years!

Even further afield, but still in the San Juan metropolitan area, surrounding communities of interest might include Rio Piedras, Catano, and Carolina. Founded in 1714, Rio Piedras has been part of San Juan since 1951 and features the Puerto Rico Botanical Gardens (orchid lovers will find more than 100 species). The Bacardi Rum Distillery, which offers great tours, is just west of Catano (and just a short ferry ride from Old San Juan). Finally, Carolina features the quiet Pinones Forest and some excellent beachfront restaurants.

From Old San Juan’s historic forts to the city’s modern beach resorts, this rich port is certainly a rich find for cruise ship passengers. It’s easy to say “si” to a pre- or post-cruise stay in San Juan.

Know Before You Go

*Ships That Call: Virtually every major cruise line plying the Caribbean calls on San Juan at some point. In addition, many lines have ships that homeport in San Juan at least part of the year. Homeport ship possibilities include: Carnival’s Destiny; Princess’s Golden Princess; Radisson Seven Seas’s Radisson Diamond; Seadream Yacht Club’s Seadream I and Seadream II; Royal Caribbean’s Adventure of the Seas, Empress of the Seas, Serenade of the Seas; and Celebrity’s Constellation.

*Weather: San Juan temperatures average 83F in winter and 85F in summer--meaning it’s “summer” year-round. Tropical rain showers are always possible, but typically short-lived.

*Money Matters: Puerto Rico’s currency is the U.S. dollar. Credit cards are widely accepted around San Juan and ATM’s are quite prevalent.

*For More Info: Puerto Rico Tourism Company (Cruise Travel Magazine), P.O. Box 902-3960, San Juan, PR, 00902-3960; 800-866-7827; or log on to www.gotopuertorico.com.