Rodale's Scuba Diving....

TOBAGO: YOU HAVE TO GO!

Located at the southernmost side of the Caribbean lies Tobago--the “little sister” island to Trinidad, but a big brother when it comes to the motherlode of places divers have to go in their lifetime! Known for its unspoiled beaches, relaxed atmosphere, and varied appeals above and below the surface, Tobago offers divers a plethora of countless fish and invertebrates, colorful coral formations, and typically excellent water conditions.

Situated just seven miles off the coast of South America, both Trinidad and Tobago were once joined to the mainland. This ancient continental link meant many mainland life forms remained on the islands when they split away from the continent. But they are now crowded into a very small geographic area for all to enjoy.

Tobago is the diving destination part of the Trinidad & Tobago duo, providing an ideal location for divers because of the slow flow of the Guyana current that moves up the eastern coast of South America and divides around Trinidad--washing the south and east coasts of Tobago (and creating some great drift diving).

Warm water rich in nutrients produces a haven for a wide range of marine life--including barracudas, dolphins, hammerhead sharks, whale sharks, turtles, porpoises, butterfly fish, angels, parrotfish, and more. As a big-time bonus, Tobago is one of the few places in the world where divers can regularly view manta rays (they call them “Tobago Taxis” here but riding them is outlawed)!

In addition, from early-spring to early-fall, whale shark encounters can be common. They tend to pass between Tobago and Trinidad, so diving on Toco Reef can be the dive of a lifetime! A helicopter tour company communicates whale shark family locations to the dive boats, making for much more frequent encounters for lucky Tobago divers.

Diving is concentrated in five main areas around the island: Speyside; the St. Giles Islands; Man O’ War Bay; the North Coast; and Columbus Passage. The diving is so good around Tobago that there’s also a live-aboard based there!

Tobago has a few coral reefs (like Angel Reef and Buccoo Reef), where divers will find thousands of barrel, tube, and rope sponges, which are home to countless invertebrates, hydroids, and fish. The coral in Tobago is normally in excellent health, with large sizes of all coral, including brain coral heads that are reportedly some of the largest in the world--they’re estimated to be hundreds of years old and span more than 13 feet across!

Conditions are Caribbean-like with average year-round water temperature around 78F and visibility typically in the 60 to 80 foot range. Diving is often done from local wooden pirogues, making for small and intimate groups.

Most of the tourism-oriented growth has occurred on the southwest end of the island (Crown Point) and along the Caribbean coast. Well-known dive sites here include The Shallows (lots of pelagics), Flying Reef (a fun drift dive that’s good for rays and morays), and Mt. Irvine Wall (lots of coral and fish--and great for night diving!).

The west coast of the island features beach-lined bays and stunning fringing reefs. The Sisters is a famous site, where hammerhead sharks often school or manta rays can be spotted.

Speyside, a tiny village, is the base for meeting the mantas. Great drift dives include Flying Manta, Bookends, and Black Jack Hole, while the Japanese Gardens is possibly the best reef dive off the island and Kamikaze Cut is more for the experts.

Finally, the Charlotteville area provides access to the nearby St. Giles Islands, where natural formations like London Bridge, Marble Island, and Fishbowl await. Underwater cliffs and canyons abound, as do lots of coral and sponges.

Tobago, with just 116 square miles, features a central spine of forested hills and windswept shorelines. Topside time can be spent pursuing even more natural activities--ecotourism on Tobago is booming above and below the surface. Hiking, waterfalls, birdwatching, golf, tennis, windsurfing, kayaking, sailing, fishing, helicopter tours, great local dining, and some super beaches all await during surface intervals.

Divers staying on Tobago will probably arrive first in Trinidad and it’s well worth some exploration (or as a daytrip or pre- or post-Tobago stay). The beauty of Trinidad's Port of Spain and surrounding countryside is only a sideshow during Carnival. Though music and nightlife are good anytime of year, if you can plan a dive vacation during Carnival, you'll get the best of both worlds: a colorful parade of marine life drifting by below the surface off Tobago and a colorful parade of crazed Carnival revelers drifting by above the surface on Trinidad. It's definitely a powerful “T 'n' T” explosion of color.

With a careful approach to tourism, the destination duo of Trinidad & Tobago is arguably offering one of the few still-unspoiled spots in the Caribbean. Trinidad, dubbed the “Cultural Capital of the Caribbean,” is home to a world-famous Carnival and is the birthplace of the steel pan drum. Sister island Tobago is the quintessential Caribbean island for divers, with secluded beaches, quaint villages, charming hotels, smart new resorts, and--of course--world-class diving!

To get started, visit the Trinidad & Tobago website at www.visitTNT.com