The Jefferson Hotel....

RICHMOND'S JEFFERSON HOTEL

TURNS 100

I can think of at least 100 reasons for visiting Richmond, Virginia's Jefferson Hotel. As a native Virginian who treasures tradition, The Jefferson's 100th anniversary provides yet another reason to return to one of my favorite hotels in the world. I follow in the footsteps of many well-known guests and so should you.

The Jefferson Hotel has been the hub of Richmond social life, elegant accommodations, and dining since its opening back on Halloween night in 1895. Over the years, The Jefferson has hosted a long list of dignitaries, stars, notables, and other lovers of fine hotels like me.

I met my wife at The Jefferson Hotel and we were married in the Presidential Suite, where the guests have included nine presidents, Elvis (he ordered cantaloupe and ice cream for breakfast), and Frank Sinatra (he played the hotel's grand piano late into the night). I definitely like the company you can keep at The Jefferson.

Whether it's for a wedding, a special weekend stay, an elegant meal, or a casual get-together, I now return often for any reason I can conjure. Whenever I go, I'm in the good company of guests past and present.

In this day of look-alike hotels and services, The Jefferson is a special place that deserves a special visit during 1995. You'll probably even see me there.

The original hotel cost $8 million to build and included contemporary services like electricity for lights and elevators, hot and cold water, and a Teleseme (a predecessor to the telephone) for room service. Other extravagances included Turkish and Russian baths, billiard rooms, a library, a ladies' salon, a grill room, hundreds of antiques from around the world, and even palm trees from South America. I still find many of these early extravagances, as well as more recent ones, as a highlight of any stay.

The landmark underwent a $34 million renovation (compared to the original cost of $8) in 1986. Since then, new local owners have spent another $5 million for further renovation and many service upgrades. This led to The Jefferson's receipt of Five Diamond status with the AAA in 1994, an award given to only around 50 North American hotels.

In it's 100th year, The Jefferson certainly deserved one of the hotel industry's most prestigious awards. But guests like me are the real winners, with a wide array of services and amenities that only a Five Diamond hotel can provide.

There are two impressive lobbies at The Jefferson Hotel: The Palm Court and The Rotunda. I still remember my first views of both of them and still get the same chills each time I enter the hotel through them.

The Palm Court is now the registration area and features the original bellman's desk and nine original stained-glass side-windows. This area is the home for the marble statue of Thomas Jefferson, a piece created for the hotel in the late-1800s by Richmond sculptor Edward V. Valentine. Live alligators lived in the pools beside the statue until 1948, but they have been replaced by cast iron replicas. Afternoon tea is still served here, a traditional Richmond respite I often make time to enjoy.

The Rotunda downstairs is one of the most recognizable lobbies in the country, boasting faux marble pillars supporting a 70-foot ceiling that is embellished with multi-color and gold-leaf designs. The highlight of the room is the double-wide sweeping marble staircase, which many believe was the model for the famous stairway featured in "Gone With The Wind." The history of the hotel never fails to envelope me when I descend this stunning staircase and think of those who have descended before me and the lucky ones yet to come.

Since the turn of the century, The Rotunda has hosted many well-known guests, including the Barrymore, Vanderbilt, and Whitney families and such notable celebrities as Gertrude Stein, F. Scott and Zelda Fitzgerald, Charlie Chaplin, Sarah Bernhardt, Sir Edmund Hillary, Diane Keaton, Richmond native Warren Beatty, Charles Kuralt (who knows good hotels), Norman Schwarzkopf, Paul Simon, Chevy Chase, and two authors named Thomas Wolfe (the author of "Look Homeward Angel" and the Richmond native of "Bonfire of the Vanities" fame). Famed dancer and Richmond native Bill "Bojangles" Robinson was even discovered in The Jefferson, tap dancing for a talent agent while waiting tables. The list of famous people associated with The Jefferson seems endless and I hope to be included on it one day.

Many items original to the hotel include ladies' writing tables, ornate wall sconces, and many oil paintings. To celebrate the 100th anniversary, a permanent display in The Rotunda features an interesting array of memorabilia from the past 100 years, including menus, invitations, photographs, and much more. It's a collection I find myself lingering over often.

The Jefferson's 274 luxurious guest rooms and suites feature 57 delightfully different styles, all with unusually high ceilings, tall windows, and custom-designed and richly upholstered furnishings. From mahogany armoires to custom-woven carpets, the rooms provide a perfect hotel haven, and I've made it a personal project to stay in as many as possible. Other hotel amenities include 26 suites of varying sizes, a Concierge Floor, and a new state-of-the-art fitness center.

I visit The Jefferson's award-winning Lemaire restaurant frequently. Named for Thomas Jefferson's maitre d'hotel, Etienne Lemaire, the restaurant features an elegant setting, superior service, and regional cuisine, complemented by an extensive selection of fine Virginia wines and special centennial celebration private label wines.

Jefferson was known for his appreciation of fine wines and food and is widely credited for introducing America to the fine art of cooking with wines. Chef Mark Lagenfeld completed extensive research concerning the dining habits of Jefferson, devising creative dishes like several of my favorites: Grilled Venison Loin Wrapped in Smoked Bacon, Thomas Jefferson's Black Root Salsify, and Dried Currant Foie Gras Sauce. It's as close as I'll ever come to dining with Jefferson himself.

Down the huge staircase, T.J.'s Grill and Bar overlooking The Rotunda provides a less formal atmosphere, where I often take guests to enjoy lunch, dinner, or late-night fare. I know Mr. Jefferson would have enjoyed both dining options, as well as the rest of the hotel that bears his name.

The Jefferson is located on Franklin Street, conveniently near Richmond's business, historic, and residential districts. It's the ideal base for a visit to Richmond and a southern tradition that will enjoy another 100 years of glory. The elegant setting, accommodations, and dining make for a perfect capital combination. I hope to see you there soon.

SIDEBAR

VISITING THE JEFFERSON HOTEL

AND RICHMOND, VIRGINIA

For information and reservations, contact The Jefferson Hotel at Franklin and Adams Streets, Richmond, VA 23220; (804) 788-8000 or (800) 424-8014.

Richmond is at the heart of everything wonderful about the Old (and new) Dominion. Virginia's capital city is steeped in history and deserves several days of exploration. There's an interesting blend of historic and modern in the city. Over a billion dollars of shiny new buildings grace the downtown skyline, but they coexist with restored mansions, museums, warehouses, and landmarks like The Jefferson Hotel. Richmonders and visitors alike enjoy the new and old riches, but at a southern gentleman's (and gentlewoman's) pace. The Jefferson Hotel serves as a perfect Richmond hub.

For information about exploring Richmond, contact the hotel or the Richmond Convention & Visitors Bureau at 550 E. Marshall St., Richmond, VA 23219; (800)365-7272.

W. Lynn Seldon Jr. is a full-time freelance travel writer and photographer based in Virginia. He has written for many national magazines. His most recent books include Country Roads of Virginia and 52 Virginia Weekends, which both feature The Jefferson Hotel.