Country Inns B&B....

ST. MICHAELS, MARYLAND:

THE EASTERN SHORE'S

IN(N) TOWN

An inn experience on the Eastern Shore is unlike any other to be found in the United States. It's a sensory barrage of interesting accommodations, history, local people and language, unusual fare, as well as excellent antiques and crafts shopping. These experiences all combine to make this unique part of the Mid-Atlantic a destination for the senses.

The town of St. Michaels, Maryland and the surrounding Talbot County countryside just may provide the quintessential Eastern Shore experience. Whether you come for the quaintness, the quiet, or some spicy steamed crabs, this town is a feast for (and in) every sense.

St. Michaels offers everything to the traveler in search of the typical Eastern Shore visit. It all starts with an incredibly varied selection of excellent accommodations and ends with too much to do for a short stay. Along with the Inn at Perry Cabin (see preceding story), there are many other options worth exploring.

 One of the newest and most unusual choices is the Inn at Christmas Farm, seven miles northwest of town. Situated at the end of a long dirt road and featuring a friendly welcome by lots of dogs, this working farm offers one of the most unique inn visits in the region.

Bea and David Lee have turned their 50-acre farm into a haven for St. Michaels visitors in search of something unusual along the Eastern Shore. They offer two private and well-furnished rooms in the main house, but the converted chapel is the real draw. Here, they relocated and transformed a small church into two suites with full amenities, which any inn-lover will worship.

The charming country-style chapel suites feature separate sitting rooms, private baths, a creative self-service breakfast, and a deck or patio overlooking the farm, lots of friendly animals, and a wonderfully new crystal-clear pond popular for swimming. From colorful peacocks and sheep to fields of crops and the quiet of the country, this place is still a St. Michaels secret.

Bea (an international trade attorney) and David (a steamship freight broker) are informative hosts and wonderful company during a very unique St. Michaels stay. Potential visitors should also enquire about their 56-foot skipjack, the Ida May, which they rent as "B&B" accommodations for more adventurous overnighters.

Also just outside of town, the Wades Point Inn is one of the most popular choices on the Eastern Shore. At the end of a long lane, Betsy and John Feiler play host to 24 panoramic Bay view rooms, a sprawling lawn, and lots of balconies and porches. The Main House offers typical bed-and-breakfast rooms, while the new adjoining Mildred T. Kemp building offers modern accommodations and stunning balcony views of the property and water.

The Parsonage Inn is a popular choice in the heart of St. Michaels. This former Victorian parsonage was converted into a seven-room bed-and-breakfast inn in 1985. Though meticulously furnished to replicate the late Victorian period, all modern conveniences have been included. Bedrooms have king- or queen-sized brass beds, Queen Anne-style furniture, Laura Ashley linens, and adjoining private baths. It's the perfect in-town choice and Will Workman is a perfect history-loving host.

Once situated in an inn of choice, any St. Michaels visit should begin with two activities to gain a good overall view of the area. Be sure to visit the interesting Chesapeake Bay Maritime Museum and then continue down the busy dock to take an informative tour on the water with Patriot Cruises.

The Maritime Museum provides a surprisingly un-museum-like introduction to the Eastern Shore and the Chesapeake Bay. Located on a peninsula in the harbor of St. Michaels, visitors can trace the history of the Bay and its traditions of boat building, commercial fishing, yachting, waterfowling (make sure to ask about the phenomenal fall Waterfowl Festival), navigation, and many other interesting items unique to the Bay.

Major museum features include a 100-year-old "screwpile" lighthouse, a restored log-bottom bugeye, a skipjack, a racing log canoe, and a comprehensive decoy and waterfowling presentation. The Museum Store is a great place to find unique gifts.

Patriot Cruises offers a large array of tour possibilities and one of the best is the 90-minute orientation tour along the Miles River, a beautiful arm of the Chesapeake Bay. Curious cruisers enjoy an excellent narrative by captain David Etzel, incredible views, lots of interesting history, and many Eastern Shore anecdotes. On a sunny day or crisp evening, this may be the highlight of a St. Michaels visit.

Once you have your bearings and history lessons, St. Michaels is a wonderful town for strolling and shopping. The lively streets lead to several unique shops and shopkeepers. Antique-buyers and those in search of local crafts will shop 'til they drop back in their comfortable inn beds.

Among many possibilities, several "can't miss" shopping stops along Talbot Street include: Crabapple of St. Michaels (Crabtree & Evelyn in miniature); Pennywhistle Antiques (several dealers in 11 different rooms); Sentimental Journey Antiques (ask about their antique oyster plates); and Chesapeake Bay Outfitters.

After a day of exploration, head for ice cream at Justine's Ice Cream Parlour along Talbot Street or enjoy some local flavor and tasty cold beverages at the Carpenter Street Saloon.

An Eastern Shore stop is also the perfect time to be crabby and happy at the same time. Dining on crabs will be one of the highlights of any St. Michaels visit. Blue crabs are a delicacy of the Chesapeake Bay and there are many flavorful places to enjoy them right on the water.

Two local restaurants where you can enjoy steamed crabs and Eastern Shore atmosphere are St. Michaels Crab House and Bar and the Crab Claw Restaurant. The former is known for a filling and fun all-you-can-eat platter of crabs, corn-on-the-cob, and french fries. The second is often packed with tourists, but that's because the view (and the crabs) are so good.

If you've never picked crabs, just ask your server for a quick lesson in this wonderfully tasty (and messy!) experience. Diners who fall in love with the famed blue crabs and other fruits of the Chesapeake Bay should head to Big Al's Market on Talbot Street so they can carry home a bit of the Eastern Shore for a tasty reminder of the trip (just make sure to buy enough ice).

For an evening outing and another wonderful dining (or sleeping) experience, head to Oxford and the Oxford Inn and Pope's Tavern. The best way to get there is by the Oxford-Bellevue Ferry, America's oldest (as in 1683) privately-run ferry. On your way, stop for some quick and unusual local crafts shopping at Dotti Heimert's Bellevue Store, just before the ferry landing.

Once in Oxford, you'll find a town that holds on to tradition like a crab to a chicken leg on a bait line. You'll definitely find lots of that tradition and great food at the Oxford Inn and Pope's Tavern. Co-owner George Schmitt will share much Eastern Shore lore with diners, but his best story is about Muskrat, a novel by local sailor Douglas Hanks Jr.

It's a novel about a group of Eastern Shore watermen who built an underdog racing yacht to recapture the America's Cup from the Aussies. This hilarious account is actually memorialized in a section of the bar and makes for colorful conversation over their creatively-prepared Eastern Shore fare.

For those who want to venture even further afield, there are many other accommodations and outings options close by and all along the Eastern Shore. One short drive not to be missed is out to Tilghman Island for a taste of the Eastern Shore at work (in the water) and at play (in any of the excellent local restaurants and bars). Many will fall in love with the inn experience of the area and should contact the Inns of the Eastern Shore, an excellent association of unique inns and bed-and-breakfasts all along the Eastern Shore of Maryland and Virginia. If you're like many inn-lovers, the in(n) town of St. Michaels and the surrounding countryside will only whet your appetite for a bigger bit of the Eastern Shore.

INFORMATIONAL SIDEBAR

--Talbot County Chamber of Commerce, P.O. Box 1366, 805 Goldsborough Street, Easton, MD 21601, 410/822-4606.

--Inn at Christmas Farm, 8873 Tilghman Island Road, Wittman, MD 21676, 410/822-4470.

--Wades Point Inn on the Bay, P.O. Box 7, St. Michaels, MD 21663, 410/745-2500.

--Parsonage Inn, 210 N. Talbot Street, St. Michaels, MD 21663, 410/745-5519.

--Oxford Inn and Pope's Tavern, Box 627, 1 South Morris St., Oxford, MD 21654, 410/226-5220.

--Inns of the Eastern Shore, 1500 Hambrooks Boulevard., Cambridge, MD 21613, 410/228-0575.

--Chesapeake Bay Maritime Museum, P.O. Box 636, Navy Point, St. Michaels, MD 21663, 410/745-2916.

--Patriot Cruises, P.O. Box 1206, St. Michaels, MD 21663, 410/745-3100.

--St. Michaels Crab House and Bar, 305 Mulberry Street, St. Michaels, MD 21663, 410/745-5954.

--Crab Claw Restaurant, Navy Point by the Maritime Museum, St. Michaels, MD 21663, 410/745-2900.