AMOCO Magazine....

A WILD TIME ON

CHINCOTEAGUE ISLAND, VIRGINIA

The mighty Chesapeake Bay separates Virginia's remote Eastern Shore from the rest of the state, making for a simpler way of life in places like Chincoteague and for people like Donald Leonard. But every July, Mr. Leonard and about 50,000 people (and more than 100 ponies) get wild in the island town of Chincoteague. The annual Chincoteague Volunteer Firemen's Carnival and Pony Round-up and Swim provides one of America's great island getaways.

For local pony personality and saltwater cowboy Donald Leonard, the wild ponies of nearby Assateague Island have developed into a huge tourist draw for this island destination and Mr. Leonard has played a big role in this success. He says, "The pony penning each July involves rounding-up the wild ponies on Assateague and then herding them across the sound to Chincoteague for an auction, but that's just the beginning of this wild time for me and many other locals and tourists."

Donald Leonard has always loved ponies. "My daddy told everyone on the island that you could find me if you found the ponies," says Mr. Leonard. "I was lucky enough to be born on an island where ponies provided a living I love." Mr. Leonard's love can be understood by attending Chincoteague's famed pony round-up and swim, auction, and carnival. His life has been devoted to raising ponies (he's a successful stockman), hosting guests at his hotel (drawn to Chincoteague by the ponies), and supporting the volunteer fire department and their big events. It's a life and legendary history he loves to discuss.

"The pony penning started more than two hundred years ago, but the modern era began in 1925," says Mr. Leonard. "I'm the same age as the modern pony penning and carnival, so I guess you could say I'm a veteran at it. I've been very active with the fire company and I only recall missing one pony penning, back during World War II."

Mr. Leonard's ancestors came to Chincoteague more than 300 years ago, but the horses were already there. Though some tales attribute the wild ponies on Assateague Island to a sunken Spanish galleon, most locals believe the current horses are ancestors of those set loose on the island by settlers in the 1600s. These horses were occasionally herded for claiming, branding, and harnessing. The round-up eventually developed into a time of much working, selling, eating, and drinking.

By the late-1800s, people were journeying to Chincoteague to see the round-up and to join in the celebrations. Big crowds in the early-1900s, along with two devastating fires in downtown Chincoteague, convinced the island residents that they needed better firefighting equipment and organization.

In 1925, the island's volunteer firemen took over the pony penning and carnival as a fund-raiser. The modern method of herding the ponies on Assateague and then driving them across the narrow channel for a short "swim" to Chincoteague was also first employed during this time.

The first "official" volunteer firemen's round-up, swim, and auction in 1925 was a huge success, with more than 15,000 people in attendance to see the penning and subsequent sale of about 20 colts, priced at $75 for male and $90 for female. The proceeds allowed the firemen to buy a new pump truck.

"Things have changed drastically since then, but the beauty, traditions, and cause remain the same," says Mr. Leonard. The ponies are now auctioned and last year's average price was almost $1,000, with one red and white filly bringing $3,000.

The Chincoteague Volunteer Fire Company eventually bought its own herd of horses, which they keep on the Virginia portion of Assateague Island (now the Chincoteague National Wildlife Refuge). These saltwater cowboys maintain the health and welfare of the herd, under the guidance of refuge officials, veterinarian, and animal welfare officials.

Though the pony penning and auction have become hugely popular, the carnival is the big money-raiser for the fire company. This traditional small-town carnival features several weekends and weekdays of carnival attractions, fireworks, entertainment, demonstrations, and tasty food.

Thanks to the pony penning, carnival, natural areas, wild ponies, and other attractions, Chincoteague has become a very popular island destination all year. The island features a wide array of accommodations options, from camping to quaint B&Bs to full-service hotels. Seafood lovers will find plenty of places to enjoy the fresh bounties of the sea.

It's easy to see why Donald Leonard loves these ponies (and Chincoteague Island). The 1995 pony round-up and swim is July 26 and the auction is July 27. The 70th Annual Chincoteague Volunteer Firemen's Carnival will be held June 30, July 1, July 3, 4 (with fireworks), 7, 8, 14, 15, and July 20-29.

Chincoteague is easily reached by taking US 13 south through the Maryland portion of the Eastern Shore or north through the Virginia portion. For further information, contact the Chincoteague Chamber of Commerce Visitor Center at P.O. Box 258, Chincoteague, VA 23336, 804/336-6161.

W. Lynn Seldon Jr. is a full-time freelance travel writer and photographer, based in Richmond, Virginia. His work has appeared and many national publications and his most recent book is Country Roads of Virginia (800/729-9179).