Rodale’s Scuba Diving

The Fabulous Florida Keys

Around one million divers and snorkelers come to the Florida Keys every year because it's the only tropical environment where underwater enthusiasts can readily drive to and visit a living coral reef. The Florida Keys represent the ultimate in continental U.S. diving. Thanks to the vibrant coral reef environment, divers can spend days and weeks exploring dozens of different reef sites throughout this stunning stretch of islands.

WELCOME TO THE KEYS

The Florida Keys have turned into one of the world's most popular dive destination because of their ideal location, conditions, and diver dedication. Stretching off the southern edge of Florida from Biscayne Bay to the Dry Tortugas, this 180-mile span of islands offers semi-tropical conditions year-round, the clear and warm waters of the Gulf Stream, and the most dive operators you'll find anywhere on earth.

Divers and snorkelers should remember that one visit to one part of the Keys doesn't mean they've seen everything the Keys have to offer underwater. Each part of the Florida Keys offers unique coral reef dive experiences. To really see and dive the Keys, you need multiple visits to each of these areas: Key Largo, Islamorada, Marathon, Big Pine Key/Looe Key, and Key West.

In addition, if you're looking for convenient Keys-like diving, you only need to take US 1 (or the Florida Turnpike) just south of Miami to the Homestead area, turn left, and head over to Biscayne National Park. It was originally established as a national monument back in 1968 and achieved national park status back in 1980 (96% of the park is underwater).

Marine life in the park is similar to that found further south, with lots of patch reefs, coral heads, and a profusion of fish. But one bonus is that there is actually the longest and most vertical wall diving of anywhere in the Keys. Called The Wall, Biscayne National Park's wall runs from about 65 to 110 feet and includes a ton of vertical coral life and passing fish, along with occasional large pelagics.

A mini-wall called Park Place provides another similar wall experience from 40 to 85 feet. Other popular coral reef destinations in the park include: Bache Shoal and East Bache Shoal (lush soft corals); Ball Buoy Reef (elkhorn coral and lots of fish at several individual sites); and Rocky (a u-shaped patch reef on the north end that's great for night dives).

KEY LARGO

Keys coral reef conservation got underway in Key Largo, when, in 1960, widespread public support laid the foundation for John Pennekamp Coral Reef State Park off Key Largo. The popular state park (now a part of the Florida Keys National Marine Sanctuary) was a forerunner of successful conservation efforts. Diligent dive operators help enforce the rules and intent of the protected areas, as do lots of mooring buoys.

The dive sites frequented from Key Largo (as well as Tavernier and Plantation Key, just to the south) can keep visiting divers busy for weeks. Thanks to stunning coral growth and marine life, Molasses Reef is still one of the most popular dive sites in the Keys.

In the northern section of the Keys, Carysfort Reef features extensive coral growth. The Elbow is a reef that snagged many ships over the years, including three major wrecks that can be seen on dives here. Grecian Rocks is a popular beginner dive and snorkeling site, with lots of well-lit and large coral heads close to the surface. To the south, French Reef features numerous swim-through caves, full-fledged small caves, and lots of overhangs. The impending sinking of the 510-foot Spiegel Grove will make for a huge and long-awaited addition to the Key Largo diving scene (it will be the longest vessel in the world purposely scuttled as an artificial reef).

ISLAMORADA

Diving and life are a bit quieter here. Though Islamorada operators often head to a few of the better southern sites visited by Key Largo dive shops (e.g., Molasses Reef), the reefs right off their own shores are also awesome.

Pickles Reef, Conch Reef, and Davis Reef provide typical Islamorada reef diving, featuring large purple sea fans, as well as lots of queen conchs and pillar coral. Other highlights of Islamorada diving include: Crocker Reef and Crocker Valley (some sharp vertical walls); Hammerhead Reef (a favorite among regulars); the Aquarium and Fish Bowl (both filled with fish); and Hens & Chickens (huge coral heads).

MARATHON

Located right in the middle of the Florida Keys, Marathon offers the best of both worlds. It seems to have the right mix of commercialism and that laid-back Keys lifestyle, providing an ideal combination.

Marathon dive shops often dive one of many Marathon Middle Reefs after a wreck dive on the R/V Thunderbolt. Coffin's Patch is one of the best, with a profusion of pillar, brain, staghorn, and fire coral and lots of friendly fish. Other excellent options include: The Donut (a generally circular reef patch); Pillar Patch (towering pillar coral); and The State (limestone and fire coral ledges).

Next, Sombrero Reef is another one of the more popular Marathon reef dives. Highlights of these coral fingers include the eight-foot-high coral arch, giant star corals, and, as always, abundant fish activity.

BIG PINE KEY & LOOE KEY REEF

Just 30 miles northeast of Key West, Big Pine Key and the diving mecca of Looe Key are in another world. If your vision of the Florida Keys is quiet and natural, Big Pine Key and Looe Key Reef will woo you above and below the surface.

Quiet Big Pine Key is the base for exploring the stunning reef tract of Looe Key, just 6.7 nautical miles to the southwest. Once a national marine sanctuary in its own right and now part of the larger Florida Keys National Marine Sanctuary, the reef out at Looe Key encompasses one of the most varied and voluminous reefs in the Florida Keys.

Looe Key Reef is something that shouldn't be missed on any mid or lower-Keys dive trip. The area is one of the most active reefs in the Keys, with a wide array of fish and a representative mix of coral found throughout the area. Any dive features virtually all types of patch and outside reef coral found in the Florida Keys, including elkhorn, staghorn, and fire coral. The fingers of coral often reach 35 feet in height, with gently waving sea fans welcoming divers to this typically easy dive.

KEY WEST

Where else can you dive a reef with a huge jewfish during the day and, in the evening, toast the legacy of Ernest Hemingway or a giant mounted jewfish outside his original dive, Capt. Tony's Saloon?

The coral reef characters of today are as interesting as past and present Key West characters topside. Coral reef diving and snorkeling highlights off Key West include: South Beach Patches (surprisingly good shallow shore diving); Eastern Dry Rocks and Rock Key (typical Keys reef structure and marine life, with the added bonus of lots of wreck remains; Sand Key (coral fingers, with lots of elkhorn and staghorn coral); and Western Dry Rocks (deeply encrusted coral fingers, lots of large grouper, and some nice caves).

To the west and out into the Atlantic, the Marquesas Keys provide a number of interesting reef dives for those who enjoy boat trips and secluded diving. The coral reef diving out here is truly adventurous.

Thus, wherever you head in the Florida Keys, you’re sure to find the underwater (and topside) attractions a diver’s delight.