Blue Ridge Outdoors...

WEST VIRGINIA'S GREENBRIER

RIVER TRAIL: 80 MILES OF BIKING & HIKING FUN

The Greenbrier River just may be the perfect middle-of-the-road biking and hiking trail. It's not too long, but it's far enough (about 80 miles) to be challenging. The terrain isn't too difficult (a dirt trail follows the riverbed), but we're not talking a black ribbon of asphalt here. Finally, you'll easily find a place to eat and sleep all along the trail, but it sure won't be a Motel 6 or McDonald's.

I've hiked and biked the entire length of the 185-mile C&O Canal National Historical Park many times and love it like an old pair of hiking boots. But some of my hiking and biking buddies don't like the tent scene anymore, preferring a hot shower and warm bed at the end of a day on the trail. With limited accommodations and dining along the trail, that sometimes makes logistics along the C&O Canal difficult.

That sleeping and eating problem doesn't exist on the Greenbrier River Trail. Happily, you can always find a place to eat and sleep somewhere nearby. This provides perfect flexibility for both bikers (mountain bikes are best, as hybrids have been known to get trashed) and hikers. If you're more into the equine set, horseback riding is also popular.

Starting just off I-64 and US 60, between Lewisburg and White Sulphur Springs, the trails heads north for 80 miles up to the historic town of Cass. In between, there's enough to keep you busy for one day of some serious biking or many days of slower trail riding or hiking. I prefer taking my time by bike or boot.

Of course, easy access points all along the trail make shorter daytrips convenient. But to get the full benefit, you really need to bike or hike the whole thing (either direction is fine). In summer, weekdays are much less crowded than weekends, making the trail even more enjoyable.

Along with many local B&Bs and hotels, campers can stay at nearby Greenbrier State Forest (two miles from the trailhead) before tackling the trail. The first of many excellent campsites is at Mile Post 4.7. The early part of the trail (30 miles) passes through several small towns (like Hopper and Keister), as well larger towns like Anthony (Mile Post 14) and Horrock (Mile Post 29.6), where you can find supplies, commercial camping, and modern conveniences.

Just outside Horrock is Droop Mountain Tunnel, one of the major attractions of the trail. This 402-foot tunnel is an eerie reminder of early train days and the looming West Virginia mountains the big steam engines needed to go through or over. Recent improvements all along the trail included trestle decking in the tunnel. Other welcome improvements include several freshwater wells and eight pit toilets interspersed evenly along the trail.

After exiting the tunnel, a plethora of places to eat and sleep awaits. There's camping at Mile Post 33.7 and the first of several great B&Bs (The Current) at Mile Post 38.5. Further along, at Mile Post 44, there's the Watoga State Park Riverside Campground. Seebert (Mile Post 45.8) offers typical town amenities, as well as accommodations at friendly Greenbrier River Cabins or Watoga State Park (cabins and camping). If you're doing the trail in two days (either way), any of these are ideal overnight points.

The ten-mile stretch from Seebert to Marlinton includes several trail access points, as well as public camping possibilities, water, and a few bridges leading over the Greenbrier River. Marlinton (Mile Post 56) is the largest town on the trail and is a great place to get information, restock supplies, visit the bike shop, spend the night, eat a meal, and enjoy many other small town conveniences. It's one of my favorite outdoors-oriented towns in the state and a great base for Pocahontas County exploration on or off the trail.

About ten miles further (Mile Post 65.7), the 511-foot Sharp's Tunnel and accompanying 229-foot bridge make for a an interesting diversion. They were both built in 1900 and have served trains and trail enthusiasts ever since.

Along with the tunnel and bridge, the stretch from Marlinton to Clover Lick also includes several convenient trailside campsites. There's also the strange remains of a grease reservoir at Mile Post 70.3, which was part of a system to reduce friction between the wheel flanges and rails as the trail rounded the curve there.

Clover Lick (Mile Post 71.1) is a fun place to stop. The old C&O depot is currently being renovated, providing insight into turn-of-the-century Clover Lick. Nearby, old bridge piers can be seen leading to the old Raine Lumber Company band mill on the other side of the river. Also across the river, cabins and camping are available at sprawlingly beautiful Seneca State Forest.

The rest of the trail leads through more stunning scenery and major mountain vistas. The town of Stony Bottom (Mile Post 75) has a great little place to stay (Moore's Motel), as does Sitlington (Mile Post 77), with cabins at E&G Cabins. Both places allow you to sleep literally right next to the trail.

The end (or beginning) of the trail is Cass Scenic Railroad State Park. This historic attraction and train ride is also a great place for hikers and bikers to spend the night in one of 12 historic houses and to chow down on some serious buffet food. Whether you're celebrating the end of the trip or stoking up for the adventure ahead, Cass is one of the Greenbrier River Trail's highlights.

RESOURCES

The Greenbrier River Trail is part of the incredible West Virginia State Parks system. It is overseen by Watoga State Park (Mile Post 45.8, 304/799-4087 or 800/CALL WVA). The Greater Greenbrier Chamber of Commerce (304/645-1000) and the Pocahontas County Tourism Commission (800/336-7009) can also help with specific planning, accommodations (including phone numbers for those mentioned in the article), and more. Several excellent outfitters can provide advice, shuttles, complete packages, and a wide variety of other area adventures: Allegheny Outdoor Center (888/PLAYWVA, email: www.alleghenyoutdoor.com) and Elk River Touring Center (304/572-3771, website: www.ertc.com) are both perfect picks.

Lynn Seldon is a Virginia-based freelance travel writer and photographer. His Blue Ridge sports coverage credits include Blue Ridge Outdoors, SKI Magazine, Blue Ridge Country, and West Virginia Outdoors. His most recent book is Country Roads of West Virginia (NTC, 800/323-4900), which features many great road trips throughout the Mountaineer State.