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Nice & Cannes

Just 18 miles apart on the French Riviera, Nice and Cannes entice visitors with sunshine, azure waters, and a relaxed lifestyle. Big-city Nice and glamorous Cannes make for an interesting combination visit. In fact, the two cities have combined marketing efforts in North America, making it easier than ever to plan a trip to one or both unique destinations. Along with our recommendations below, the website of Nice (www.nicetourism.com) and Cannes (www.cannes-on-line.com) will get you started.

HOTELS--Whether you want a traditional Riviera beach resort or a boutique hotel, both Cannes and Nice can accommodate. With Nice, anywhere within walking distance of the Old City is ideal, while being on or near the beach is best in Cannes.

*Any summary of Nice hotels has to begin with the Hotel Negresco, the most dramatic hotel in Nice and right on the famed Promenade des Anglais. Each floor is decorated in a different era of French history. Lots of celebrities have stayed here over the years, as well as dining in hotel’s restaurant (see below), the only two-star restaurant in the city. Compared to other less-expensive options, whether it’s worth the price is up for debate. 37, Promenade des Anglais. Doubles from $195. Tel: 33 (0)4 93 16 64 00. Fax: 33 (0)4 93 88 35 68.

*One of our favorite big-city boutique hotels in the region, the Hotel Grimaldi is located near the stylish pedestrian shopping streets of Nice (including the Galeries Lafayette and the many designer shops). It’s owned by a friendly young couple decorated each room differently, but all in a charming Nicoise style. A small lobby bar also serves as a breakfast room. 15, rue Grimaldi. Doubles from $65. Tel: 33 (0)4 93 16 00 24. Fax: 33 (0)4 93 87 00 24.

*The Chateau des Ollieres is an exquisite eight-room hotel near the center of the city, next to the Museum of Fine Arts. It’s formerly the palace of a Russian prince and is still furnished with original antiques. There’s also a lovely spacious restaurant situated in a glass-enclosed conservatory. 39 Avenue des Maumettes. Doubles from $135. Tel: 33 (0)4 92 15 77 99. Fax: 33 (0)4 92 15 77 98.

*Located on the sea on the outskirts of Nice, the Palais Maeterlinck is more of a resort than a city hotel. However, Nice’s best swimming pool awaits guests. You’ll want to rent a car here if you plan to explore much of Nice proper. 30 bd. Maeterllinck, basse corniche. Doubles from $205. Tel: 33 (0)4 92 00 72 00. Fax: 33 (0)4 92 33 (0)4 18 10

*Nice’s Le Meridien was recently (and completely) renovated. Though it’s modern, the premier Promenade des Anglais setting and great view of the city from its rooftop pool make it popular. The Colonial is the only place in Nice you’ll find interesting Provencal-Asian fusion cuisine. 1, Promenade des Anglais. Doubles from $155. Tel: 33 (0)4 93 82 25 25. Fax: 33 (0)4 93 16 08 90.

*If you’re looking for the Old World charm of the Negresco, but a bit less expensive, the Hotel Westminster Concorde is an interesting possibility. Though older, it’s been recently redone and also offers a great location. 27, Promenade des Anglais. Doubles from $115. Tel: 33 (0)4 92 14 86 86. Fax: 33 (0)4 93 82 45 35.

*For something a bit different and more modest in Nice, try the Hotel Windsor. A different artist decorated each room. It’s a short walk from the center of Nice. 11, rue Dalpozzo. Doubles from $80. Tel: 33 (0)4 93 88 59 35. Fax: 33 (0)4 93 88 94 57.

*Thanks to the Cannes International Film Festival (the 54th is this year May 9-20) and its own long history, the Hotel Carlton Intercontinental is the place to stay in Cannes. The huge hotel is as stylish as it gets, with every possible amenity and service. The hotel’s beach is particularly nice. Whether the nicely renovated Carlton is worth the money is up to the individual. 58, la Croisette. Doubles from $170. Tel: 33 (0)4 93 06 40 06. Fax: 33 (0)4 93 06 40 25.

*Our pick for a hotel with less of a ‘name’ (and price), but still with a great location and amenities, is Hotel Gray d’Albion. It’s located in the heart of the city, but within easy walking distance of the beach. A good mid-range value, the 199-room hotel is a Lucien Barrie’re property (they also own the nearby Majestic Barrie’re, which is worth consideration as well). 38, rue des Serbes. Doubles from $155. Tel: 33 (0)4 92 99 79 79. Fax: 33 (0)4 93 99 26 10.

*For more of a local and moderate Cannes experience, we like the Hotel Splendid. Located in the heart of Cannes, but still close to the water, the old city, the market, and more, this friendly hotel is definitely worth a look. Some of the rooms even have kitchenettes, making going to the market even more enjoyable. 4, rue Feli’x Faure. Doubles from $85. Tel: 33 (0)4 97 06 2 22. Fax: 33 (0)4 93 99 55 02.

RESTAURANTS--One of the main focuses during a stay in Nice or Cannes will (and should be dining). From tiny bistros to gourmet stores to nationally famous chefs and restaurants, the seafood and other local ingredients, combined with often simple and sometimes elaborate cooking, make meals in these two cities quite special.

*Chantecler, the only two-star restaurant in Nice, is located in the Negresco (see above). Chef Alain Lorca is at the helm, turning traditional Nicoise and Provencal ingredients into some of the finest cuisine in the south of France. Dinner for two, without wine, around $140. 37, Promenade des Anglais. Tel: 33 (0)4 93 16 44 00.

*One of the most unique restaurants in the region, the vegetarian restaurant La Zucca Magica simply must be experienced. The chef/owner looks like Pavarotti and has the personality to match. His vegetarian dishes are so rich and delicious that you’ll forget there’s no meat, poultry, or fish. However, you’re sure to enjoy lots of cheese (and a warm welcome from the proprietor and his staff). Dinner for two, around $120 (including house wine). 4 bis, quai Papacino. Tel: 33 (0)4 93 56 25 27.

*Head to La Petite Maison if for nothing else than to enjoy the huge Nicoise appetizers (which can make a meal). Located across from the opera house, La Petite Maison is a popular place for socializing and lingering over food and drink. Dinner for two, without wine, around $70. 11, ru Saint-Francois-de-Paule. Tel: 33 (0)4 93 92 59 59.

*Old Nice is filled with tiny restaurants down winding streets. Auberge des Arts remains one of our top choices, with a young chef from a two-star restaurant in Paris turning out traditional, yet creative, Nicoise cuisine to a small number of tables each night. Dinner for two, without wine, around $65. 9, rue Pairolie’re. Tel: 33 (0)4 93 85 63 53.

*One of favorite seafood spots in Nice is Cafe’ de Turin, located on the main drag between Old Nice and the business district. Piles of oysters and other seafood beckon diners inside to sample the fresh seafood and wash it down with crisp local wine. Dinner for two, without wine, around $35. 5 place Garibaldi. Tel: 33 (0)4 93 62 66 29.

*Coco Beach is another excellent place for local fish. It’s located on the outskirts of Nice and overlooking the beach. There’s little better than selecting your fish and having it grilled simply with olive oil and lemon, and watching the often-spectacular sunset. Dinner for two, without wine, around $70. 2 avenue Jean Lorrain. Tel: 33 (0)4 93 89 39 26.

*The Old City of Cannes is the place to head for small restaurants on picturesque cobblestone streets (rue du Suquet is our favorite). La Mirabelle offers fresh seafood and other local fare, with outdoor dining the best bet when available. Dinner for two, without wine, around $60. 24, rue Saint-Antoine/2 rue du Suquet. Tel: 33 (0)4 93 38 72 75.

*Le Palme d’Or is in the Hotel Martinez on the second floor and it features the Provencal and Mediterranean creations of chef Christian Willer. The view from a table on the terrace, overlooking the bay, is among the best dining spots in town. Dinner for two, without wine, around $175. 73, la Croisette. Tel: 33 (0)4 92 98 74 14.

*Located in The Majestic Hotel, chef Bruno Oger (just in his early-30s) showcases his talents with the region’s fresh ingredients at Villa des Lys. The patio is the place to ask to be seated. Dinner for two, without wine, around $150. 14, la Croisette. Tel: 33 (0)4 92 98 77 41.

*Our favorite dining ‘excursion’ from Cannes is to take the frequent ferry over to the island of Ste. Marguerite (about 15 minutes). Here a small family-run restaurant called Le Masque de Fer lets you choose your fish, grills it with olive oil on ancient outdoor or indoor grills, and serves it with a view overlooking the bay and Cannes. However, be sure to call first, in that we’ve heard the husband and wife team are thinking of retiring. Dinner for two, without wine, around $25. Iles de Le’rins--Ile Ste. Marguerite. Tel: 33 (0)4 93 43 49 27.

SHOPPING--Some the best shopping tips we can offer also revolve around food and could as easily be placed above.

*A stay in Nice of any length would not be complete with a visit to ‘Chez Theresa’ in the Cours Saleya market area. For years, Theresa has been preparing and selling socca, a typical Nicoise chickpea pancake snack, to loyal locals and tourist alike who line up at her tent. Long tables nearby are the perfect place to sit and watch the show, with Theresa often chatting to her regulars as she prepares the socca.

*Somehow, ice cream simply tastes better in Nice. The best place to find an incredible number of flavors is Fenocchio, with a main shop and cafe on the Place Rossetti and a smaller outpost just around the corner from Cours Saleya on Rue Poissionieres. The ones made with local herbs are fascinating tastes.

*If you love olives and olive oil products, be sure to stop by Moulin a Huile Alziari. This shop is famed for its olives, olive oil, olive wood products, as well as varied local condiments. It’s located a couple of blocks from the Cours Saleya at 318, bd. de la Madeleine. They’ll let you try different olives and olive oils, as well as selling you containers to take home their local choices. Our last time there, five locals came in with their own jugs and filled them from the vast vats.

*For more traditional shopping in Nice, several museums of the city have excellent gift shops. The Museum of Modern Art has an extensive collection of art-related gift items, while the Matisse Museum’s tiny shop has wonderful costume jewelry and scarves designed by Matisse.

*Galeries Lafayette is the well-known French department store and Nice’s version on the main shopping street doesn’t disappoint, with a wide array of everything from designer fashions to everyday items (be sure to check out the phenomenal food department on the lower level). Nearby, Sephora (now in the U.S.) is the original French cosmetic emporium.

*Over in Cannes, the designer shops on and near la Croisette have to be seen to be believed. However, don’t buy here unless you know comparable pricing at home.

*Many visitors may prefer heading to the bustling local market nearby or to one of the excellent wine, cheese, or olive shops nearby. For wine, there’s a great selection of local choices at Cave de Forville (3 Marche’ Forville), where neighbors bring their own bottles and fill them from giant casks. For cheese, there’s none better than Ce’neri--Affineur de fromage (22, rue Meynadier), which can be found by scent alone (sampling is encouraged). Similar to Moulin a Huile Alziari in Nice, Cannolive features a wide range of olives and other local products (it’s always a great last stop for souvenirs or provisions before leaving Cannes).