Arthur Frommer’s Budget Travel

H2O ON THE GO IN

THE GREAT OUTDOORS

(FIRST IN A SERIES)

Camping and watersports are a match made in outdoors heaven. We’ve scoured the country in search of H2O locations on the go that provide great opportunities for the best in camping and watersports. For fall and early winter, it’s hard to beat the Outer Banks of North Carolina and Lake Mead, which straddles the Nevada and Arizona state lines.

NORTH CAROLINA'S OUTER BANKS: AN HISTORIC PLACE FOR CAMPING AND WATER FUN

The Outer Banks of North Carolina just may be the Mid-Atlantic’s best fall and early-winter beach destination. With 130 miles of pristine beaches, a wide variety of camping, and watersports to suit anyone, the Outer Banks are definitely 'in' with those in-the-know.

North Carolina's Outer Banks are a chain of barrier islands located in the northeastern corner of the state, midway along the Atlantic seaboard. They are just 90 miles south of Norfolk, Virginia, and easily reached by several modern highways. The area offers a throwback to beach vacations of the past and the Outer Banks Visitors Bureau (704 S. Hwy. 64, Manteo, NC 27954; 800/446-6262; www.outerbanks.org) can help make them a part of your camping and watersports future.

Early Visitors (and high-flyers)

Several high-flying visitors started coming to the Outer Banks in the late-1800s, thanks to a pitch from postmaster William J. Tate. Orville and Wilbur Wright were told by Tate that the region "...would be a fine place; our winds are always steady...If you decide to try your machine here, I assure you, you will find a hospitable people when you come among us."

The winds and hospitality attracted the Wright brothers for annual trips the next four years. Their flights of fancy became reality on the Outer Banks on a blustery December 17th morning in 1903. The historic flights of that day are remembered at the Wright Brothers National Memorial.

A granite pylon rising 60 feet stands atop Kill Devil Hill as a tribute to the first flight. After retracing the paths of the four flights the brothers made that day, visitors can view a replica of the original plane, as well as other exhibits.

The spirit that powered that first flight remains a part of the Outer Banks. One of the most interesting activities is to take a hang gliding lesson at Jockey's Ridge State Park in Nags Head. Nearby, Kitty Hawk Kites (252/441-4127; www.kittyhawk.com) operates the largest hang gliding school in the world.

A popular 414-acre park, Jockey's Ridge includes the tallest sand dune on the east coast (about 120 feet). A trek to the top provides a spectacular view of both Nags Head and Kill Devil Hills, as well as Roanoke Sound and the Atlantic Ocean on opposite sides of the narrow stretch of land making up the Outer Banks.

Of course, there were visitors to the Outer Banks well before the Wright brothers. English settlers first came to Roanoke Island in the late-16th century. Though their colony mysteriously disappeared, their efforts paved the way for the future colonization of America.

Ask any Outer Banks natives and you'll surely hear a different version of what happened to these original settlers. Some say local Indians kidnapped or even killed them, while others claim the settlers were shipwrecked on a nearby island. The story of Sir Walter Raleigh and his colonists is recounted in Manteo each summer in "The Lost Colony," the oldest outdoor drama in the nation.

Camping Aplenty

Since those early settlers camped out on the beach and inland waterways, great camping has always been easy to find all along the Outer Banks. The Outer Banks website (see above) provides details and links on each, when available.

Furthest south in the Outer Banks, Mother Nature awaits at Cape Hatteras National Seashore. The country's first national seashore, this 75-mile run of beach is the composite name for all of the coastline from Bodie Island, across Hatteras Island, and down to Ocracoke Island. Strict building regulations limit development on these shores. Quiet camping possibilities include more than 10 private campgrounds located oceanfront, soundfront, and inland, as well as three National Park Service campgrounds (check fall closing time, which varies).

Over on Roanoke Island, in Manteo, there’s one convenient campground. In the ‘busier’ northern beaches area, which includes the towns of Sanderling, Duck, Kitty Hawk, Kill Devil Hills, and Nags Head, four different options ranging from a maritime forest to camping in the shadows of sand dunes.

Water, Water, Everywhere

The lightly developed shores of the Outer Banks are a beachlovers delight. The Atlantic Ocean’s surf and sand provide limitless potential for fun, as well as miles of soundside coastline and many inland waterways.

Once you've gotten your fill of swimming and sunning, popular pursuits like windsurfing and sea kayaking await. Teachers from one of many area outfitters can have you windsurfing in less than two hours or exploring quiet bays by sea kayak in a matter of minutes.

Top operator Kitty Hawk Sports (252/441-6800; khsports.com) has many locations all along the Outer Banks and offers a wide variety of land- and water-based activities and adventures.

If fishing is more your style, Oregon Inlet Fishing Center (on the northern tip of Hatteras Island, 252/441-6301), Pirates Cove Yacht Club (between Manteo and Nags Head, 473-3906), and several others offer charters for inland and world-famous offshore fishing (fall and early-winter are ideal times). Several fishing piers also offer opportunities. Many local restaurants will be happy to cook your catch. Those who just want a boat tour will also find many seaworthy sightseeing options.

Down at the southern tip of Hatteras Island, you can't miss majestic Cape Hatteras Lighthouse. The present lighthouse was built in 1867 and is the tallest on the east coast.

The final island in this stunning stretch of sand is Ocracoke Island, which is reached only by year-round ferry. While taking the 40-minute trip to this last Outer Banks bounty, be sure to ask about Ocracoke's most famous visitor, Blackbeard. Even the notorious pirate liked the Outer Banks.

LAKE MEAD: READ THIS & REAP A GREAT TRIP

It’s hard to believe that there’s an outdoors oasis without a hint of neon just 30 miles or so southeast of bustling Las Vegas. But Lake Mead’s sparkling blue water contrasted by the surrounding desert, makes for a convenient water-based camping odyssey, whether or not Las Vegas is part of the trip.

Fall and early-winter provide a perfect time to visit 110-mile-long Lake Mead, which straddles the border between Nevada and Arizona. The grueling desert sun has lost its summer sting and vacation throngs have left, making an already large lake and land mass seem even less-crowded. Anytime of year, most of the crowds head to nearby Hoover Dam anyway (the dam formed the lake), leaving Lake Mead visitors happily lonely.

The best place to start a Lake Mead adventure is at the Alan Bible Visitor Center (702-293-8990), located four miles from Boulder City and just 30 miles from the Las Vegas Strip. With helpful staff and great introductory exhibits, the Visitor Center is open from 8:30a.m. to 4:30p.m. every day except Thanksgiving, Christmas, and New Year’s Day.

The Visitor Center is run by the Lake Mead National Recreation Area (NRA, 601 Nevada Highway, Boulder City, NV 89005-2426; 702-293-8990; www.nps.gov/lame/home.html), which is part of the National Park Service. The NRA encompasses all of Lake Mead, as well as Black Canyon and Lake Mohave to the south and all of the land surrounding the water (a total of 1.5 million acres and nearly 1,000 miles of shoreline).

Camping

Once past the Visitor Center, where new entrance and lake user fees now apply, Lake Mead is just two miles ahead at Boulder Beach. Boulder Beach is typical of Lake Mead’s six developed areas for camping and watersports (see below). Other options include: Las Vegas Wash (10 miles from the Visitor Center); Callville Bay (27 miles); Echo Bay (49 miles); Overton Beach (63 miles); and Temple Bar (50 miles from the Visitor Center and on the Arizona side of Lake Mead). Once your cross over to Arizona, you’ll be on Mountain Time, rather than Nevada’s Pacific Time Zone.

All developed sites, except Willow Beach and Overton Beach, have campgrounds. Sites are available on a first-come, first-served basis and each area has picnic tables, fire grills, water, and restrooms. Overnight fees are charged and no electrical hookups are available. Naturalists provide a variety of programs and activities throughout the year, with bulletin boards at each developed area showing the schedule.

All of the developed areas also include food services, grocery and gift shopping, fuel, and marinas. Along with Willow Beach and Overton Beach, ‘backcountry’ camping is also allowed along the shore of Lake Mead and in designated sites along unpaved country roads. Concession-run lodging is also available on the lake, as well as in nearby towns like Boulder City, Henderson, and Laughlin in Nevada, Bullhead City and Kingman in Arizona, and Needles in California.

On the Water

Along with the many camping opportunities, Lake Mead’s watersports options abound. The possibilities include swimming, boating, fishing, jet skiing, waterskiing, windsurfing, scuba diving, and more. If you don’t bring your own watercraft or equipment, it’s typically available for rental at one of the marinas. Houseboat rentals and a variety of boat tours and rafting trips can also be arranged.

Although Lake Mead is the NRA’s major attraction, it can often seem as empty as the surrounding desert. Sailboats, power boats, fishing boats, and more can all share the water without it seeming crowded.

Boaters will also find they can see and reach many scenic areas that are inaccessible to those traveling solely by car. For example, boats can easily travel up the narrow, steep-walled gorge of Iceberg Canyon in Lake Mead or down the equally spectacular Black Canyon, which leads to Lake Mohave. Boaters can also investigate secluded coves, formed by fingers of the desert jutting out into the water and often making great sandy beaches for beachcombing or backcountry camping. As with any boating, properly fitting lifejackets are highly recommended by NRA staff.

Underneath the surface, fishermen (and women) are drawn to Lake Mead like gamblers to Las Vegas. Largemouth bass, rainbow trout, striped bass, channel catfish, black crappie, and bluegill are all popular catches. For those who simply want to see the fish, rather than catch them, scuba diving is yet another option.

On Dry Land

Along with great camping, Lake Mead makes land-based activities just as fun as those for the wet set. Some super scenic drives wind through the dramatic desert scenery of Lake Mead country. Towering stark mountains, vertical-walled canyons, plateaus, and desert basins of cactus make drives that follow the Lakeshore and Northshore Scenic Drives along the lake well worthwhile. Another interesting drive takes you through one of the world’s finest Joshua-tree forests on the road to Pearce Ferry.

Picnicking and hiking can both be a great part of these dry land explorations. Just be sure to take plenty of water and, if it gets to hot, just go for the H2O in cooling Lake Mead!