Dive Training....

DIVE GEO

ST. JOHN:

AMERICA'S CARIBBEAN PARADISE

When Laurence Rockefeller transferred a major part of his St. John real estate holdings to the U.S. government in 1956, he created an untouched and unspoiled American paradise in the Caribbean for all to enjoy forever.

Part of the U.S. Virgin Islands, St. John is a little jewel for lovers of the outdoors. Above and below sea level, this island is a geographic wonder.

GEOGRAPHY

The best kind of geography is the kind that's protected for all to enjoy forever. Over half of the small rugged island of St. John is preserved in perpetuity within the Virgin Islands National Park. This diverse island includes tropical forests, unusual wildlife, wildflowers, breathtaking views, underwater wonders, and much more. The land and waters of tiny St. John combine to make a geographic giant in the Caribbean.

The natural world of St. John has undergone many dramatic changes. Forests were almost completely cleared in the 1700s and 1800s for St. John's sugar plantations, farms, and houses.

Foreign trees and shrubs invaded the native forest and no sizable original stands were left by the early-1900s. Animals were also imported by man and some, like the mongoose, had devastating effects (they ate the eggs of ground-nesting birds and sea turtles).

With an ample part of St. John's natural resources now managed by the park, the natural world of St. John has made a comeback. The island's variety of more than 800 species of plants includes the teyer palm, which is St. John's only native palm tree; the bay rum tree, whose aromatic leaves once provided the oil for the world-famous bay rum cologne; and rare, brilliantly-colored wild orchids.

St. John is a sanctuary for animals as diverse as corals, sea turtles, and reef fish; insect- and fish-eating bats; frogs; gecko, anole, and iguana lizards; and lots of birds. More than 20 species of tropical birds breed on the island, including the bananaquit, the black, parrot-like smooth-billed ani, and two species of Caribbean hummingbirds. Many birds seen in the continental U.S. in the summer spend their winters in the dense forests of St. John.

St. John's beaches are among the most beautiful in the world. Stretches of beach along Hawksnest Bay, Trunk Bay, Cinnamon Bay, and Little Lameshur Bay offer incredible opportunities for exploration and relaxation.

Sandpipers and other shorebirds visit the beaches and the water's edge in search of small crabs, mollusks, and other burrowing sea creatures. Sea turtles spend most of their lives in the sea, but do come ashore on St. John to lay eggs.

Mangrove communities are quite prevalent on St. John, bridging the gap between terrestrial and marine ecosystems. Red mangroves, with their distinctive prop roots, lie in shoreline sections where reefs or bays provide protection from waves. Undersea meadows of seagrass beds are also found in these calmer waters.

The mangroves are typically encrusted with a colorful assortment of algae, tunicates, sponges, anemones, hydroids, barnacles, and oysters. The seagrass beds are full of turtle grass and manatee grass, providing food for sea turtles, fish, and sea urchins. Sea cucumbers, batfish, spotted eagle rays, goldspotted eels, and queen conch can often be found in these areas.

The coral reefs of St. John are legendary. The Virgin Islands National Park preserves this underwater environment for all to enjoy.

The waters around St. John are filled with a variety of coral, fish, and other sea life. St. John outfitters have made the geography easy to enjoy by offering snorkeling, diving, sea kayaking, boating, and many other possibilities.

HISTORY

The history of St. John is a colorful cultural cornucopia. The island was inhabited by people long before Columbus "discovered" the islands in 1493. Archaeological research reveals that Indians migrated north in canoes from South America and lived on St. John as early as 710 BC.

St. John supported a small population of Arawak Indians (around AD 300). Carib Indians pursued and enslaved the Arawaks. Columbus skirmished with the Caribs off St. Croix in 1493, but found St. John uninhabited.

No lasting settlements were in place until the 1720s. Lucrative sugar cane cultivation convinced the Danes to take formal possession of St. John in 1694. They raised Danish colors in 1718 and thereby established the first permanent European settlement on St. John at Estate Carolina in Coral Bay.

By 1733, virtually all of St. John was taken up by 109 cane and cotton plantations. The plantations had many slaves from West Africa, many who were of tribal nobility and former slave owners. They revolted in 1733, leading to a bloody island-wide massacre of many families.

The 1848 emancipation of slaves was one of many factors leading to the decline of St. John's plantation economy. The population dropped dramatically and by the early-20th century subsistence farming, cattle, and bay rum production were the main industries.

"Of white people there are only a Danish official who is stationed there as a local judge and Chief of Police, and a few missionaries, who attend to the spiritual welfare of the 900 negro inhabitants of the island." Following this 1900 report, St. John changed from a relatively unknown island to a much-known U.S. territory.

The U.S. purchased the islands in 1917 and tourism started in earnest in the 1930s. In 1956, the Rockefeller family purchased land and transferred it to the Federal Government to be designated as a national park. In 1962, the boundaries were enlarged to include 5,650 acres of submerged lands.

Today, the park works closely with local and Caribbean-wide conservation groups to preserve the islands natural and cultural resources. St. John's rich history continues to enrich its present and future.

DIVING

St. John is as interesting below sea level as it is above. The excellent diving seems to fit right in with the rest of the geographic wonders ashore.

The channel that separates St. Thomas and St. John is Pillsbury Sound and it contains many of the most interesting dives out of St. John. The most popular dive is the wreck of the Major General Rogers.

This former Coast Guard ship was purposely sunk in 65 feet of water in 1972. The wreck has thus had time to mature and offers much to explore for many dives. The entire ship is covered with sponges and coral, while a large fish population thrives. At night, the Major General Rogers usually plays host to several Spotted Moray Eels.

If conditions are good, Carvel Rock is another popular spot. This vertical rock juts out of the water and makes for an ideal small wall dive. Ranging in depth from the surface to about 90 feet, the dive is filled with visions of fish, sponges, coral, and gorgonians.

The southern side of the island doesn't get as much diver traffic. Ed's Heads and Booby Rock feature some of the best coral formations and marine life in the U.S. Virgin Islands.

This outdoors-oriented island has attracted several excellent dive operators. All of the owners and their staff are interested in preserving the paradise that is St. John, above and below sea level. There are also many excellent training and specialty certification possibilities, due to the excellent conditions and interest in the environment.

The five dive operators on St. John are: Cinnamon Bay Watersports (809) 776-6330; Coral Bay Water Sports (809) 776-7989); Cruz Bay Watersports (809) 776-6234; Low Key Watersports (809) 776-7048; and Paradise Watersports (809) 776-7618.

LODGING AND TOPSIDE ATTRACTIONS

St. John's two biggest hotels are Caneel Bay and the Hyatt Regency. However, there are also several smaller possibilities on the island, ranging from upscale villas to spartan camping facilities.

Caneel Bay is one of the best resorts in the Caribbean. This luxurious property offers everything to discerning guests who can afford to pay for their pleasure.

Caneel Bay (800) 223-7637 or (809) 776-6111, features 170 acres and only 170 rooms. Every possible service and amenity is offered, except for in-room televisions, telephones, and air conditioning (none of which are needed). The incredible serenity and beauty are free.

The resort completely supports maintaining the geographical beauty of St. John. They offer a variety of programs and packages for the outdoors- and diving-oriented guest. There's an excellent dive operator on-premises. Caneel Bay is paradise within a paradise.

The sparkling Hyatt Regency (800) 223-1234 or (809) 776-7171, is one of Hyatt's finest properties. It is situated directly on Cruz Bay and just outside of town. There are 285 rooms spread throughout the lushly landscaped resort.

Hyatt guests generally love watersports and there are lots of ways to get wet. One of the island's largest dive operator is on-premises.

There are many other smaller possibilities for those interested in seeing a more intimate St. John. Recommendations include: Caribbean Villas & Resorts (800) 338-0987; Cruz Inn (809) 776-7688; Gallows Point Suite Resort (800) 323-7229 or (809) 776-6434; and Raintree Inn (809) 776-7449.

Unlike much of the Caribbean, camping is quite popular on St. John. Camping is restricted within the confines of the park to Cinnamon Bay Campground. Facilities include bare tent sites, sites with tent-covered platforms, and small cottages. Cinnamon Bay Campground also has a camp store and cafeteria. Contact them at P.O. Box 720, St. John, VI 00831, 809/776-6330 or 800/223-7637.

Nearby Maho Bay Campground is a privately-run camp with "tent-cabins." Facilities include a camp store and dining area, where meals are served. Contact them at P.O. Box 310, St. John, VI 00831, 809/776-6226 or 800/392-9004.

Dining is one of the primary evening activities on St. John. Try the Fish Trap at the Raintree Inn for fresh creative seafood or the Old Gallery Inn for great local cooking. Further afield, Le Chateux de Bordeaux offers one of the best views and menus in the Caribbean.

The island has lots of topside attractions. Along with the national park, many outfitters offer all sorts of opportunities. There's no shortage of something to do during surface intervals.

The national park's Cruz Bay Visitor Center is just a five-minute walk from the ferry dock and is open daily from 8 am to 4:30 pm. The center contains exhibits, a park video, brochures, maps, and books. Helpful park rangers can provide guided island hikes, historical tours, snorkeling trips, cultural craft demonstrations, and evening campground programs.

The hiking on St. John is popular for good reason. The Reef Bay Valley offers incredible views, petroglyph rock carvings, and exploration of the ruins of St. John's last active sugar mill. The park service offers a great five-hour guided hike, including transportation by bus and boat. The Francis Bay Trail is a wonderful place for birdwatching.

Local outfitters have created all sorts of ways to enjoy the outdoors. Options include: sea kayaking, fishing, para-sailing, boating, snorkeling, and any other sport currently in fashion in the Caribbean.

The geographic wonders of St. John are truly an American paradise. Today's explorers would make Christopher Columbus proud.

FACTS AND FIGURES

Location: St. John, part of the U.S. Virgin Islands lies on the eastern side of the Greater Antilles, approximately 60 miles east of Puerto Rico and about 1,100 miles southeast of Miami.

Capital: Charlotte Amalie, St. Thomas

Climate: There is less than 5oF difference in temperature from winter to summer. The average mean temperature in winter is 77oF and 82oF in winter, with cool trade winds.

Water temperatures: The water temperature averages a comfortable 80oF, but cooler winter waters may require some sort of thermal protection for comfort.

Time: St. John is in the Atlantic Standard Time Zone, which is one hour earlier than Eastern Standard Time.

Getting There: Several major airlines fly from the U.S. mainland to St. Thomas. American Airlines offers frequent service from Miami, Raleigh-Durham, New York, and San Juan, Puerto Rico. Continental offers convenient connections through Newark. Delta flies non-stop from Atlanta and Orlando.

From the St. Thomas airport, it's an easy taxi ride to the St. John ferries. Passenger ferries fun frequently between St. Thomas and Cruz Bay, St. John. The Red Hook ferry runs hourly from 7 am to 11 pm. The Charlotte Amalie ferry runs less frequently. Guests staying at Caneel Bay have their own ferry.

Who to Call: For further information about St. John and the USVI, contact the U.S. Virgin Islands Division of Tourism, 1270 Ave. of the Americas, New York, NY 10020, 212/332-2222 or 800/USVI-INFO. For further information about the park, contact the Virgin Islands National Park, 6010 Estate Nazareth #10, St. Thomas, VI 00802-3406.