Fanfare....

COMMERCIAL TAPHOUSE & GRILL:

THIS BEER'S FOR YOU

Dedicated readers will know I'm dedicated to good beer. I developed a love for my favorite beverage while living in the beer mecca of Germany and love to try beers during my travels today.

The beer scene in America has improved greatly in the last decade. "Interest in beers with a rich, full-bodied tasted in the classic European tradition has steadily increased," says Charlie Papazian, president of the Association of Brewers in Denver. "The large and regional breweries of the U.S. have set standards of quality in their beers that are now known throughout the world."

The phenomenon is demonstrated by more than 320 microbreweries and brewpubs currently operating in America, each offering their own hand-crafted beer and a large variety of other beers. Microbreweries were the forerunners for brewpubs, where beer is both produced and sold at retail.

Anchor Brewing Company, the nation's first microbrewery, opened in 1965. The first brewpub opened in 1983. This was the beginning of a new breed of beer connoisseurs in the U.S.

I'm one of those beer connoisseurs and now I don't have to walk far to pursue my passion. The Fan is now a better place to be for beer, thanks to the Commercial Taphouse & Grill. I must admit to being biased toward places with good beer. But this place is a sheer beer mecca that also happens to serve great grub as the perfect accompaniment to great beer.

The beer menu sets the tone for any visit. The selection of draft beers changes occasionally, but a recent night is indicative of their bevy of beers. With ten beers on tap, choosing a beverage of choice is difficult. One option we like is trying four 4-ounce glasses for the price of a pint. It's a great way to learn more about beers before ordering a half-pint or full pint of your favorite.

The possibilities are almost endless, making for a need to visit often. Some of my favorites include: Nickel Bridge Lager, a favorite among regulars; Christian Moerlein, a light, rich beer; Wild Goose, a British-style ale from Maryland's Eastern Shore, with lots of malt, hops, yeast, and flavor; Stoudts Maibock, a very smooth and rich stout; and Guiness Stout, the father of dark beers.

They also have many standard and strange beers by the bottle. Try the Dixie Blackened Voodoo Lager, Crazy Ed's Cave Creek Chili Beer, or the Woodpecker Cider.

We often stop by for just a beer, but the food provides a great reason to stay (and drink more beer). They offer a more casual, pub-like, menu downstairs, with a bit more formal fare and atmosphere upstairs in the Glass Bottom Grill. The appetizers are creative and perfectly combined with beer. Along with the requisite nachos, chips and salsa, and chili, we love the Bayou Wings (spicy), the beer-batter onion rings, and honey-chili pecans (very spicy).

One other light option is a Ploughman's. This platter, reminiscent of my student days in the pubs of London, features a demi-loaf of tasty potato beer bread, beer mustard, onion, pickle, and cheddar, gruyere, and smoked gouda cheese.

My favorite entree thusfar is an order of ribs, following an excellent Taphouse recipe. You can get a generous, tasty, and messy half- or full-rack, served with cole slaw, french fries, and hushpuppies. They offer a quarter-rack as an appetizer.

Other possibilities include: a juicy Taphouse Burger; chicken, club, and veggie sandwiches; and a nice order of fish and chips. The pizza menu is also intriguing, combining well with many of the beers. They currently toss a Southwestern, the Louisanne (shrimp, andouille sausage, and onion over a white cheese sauce), the Norwester (smoked salmon over pesto and ricotta cheese), and the Southern (pulled rib meat and Taphouse barbeque sauce over freshly grated cheddar cheese).

Upstairs, the entree possibilities might include fresh duck sausage, fresh seafood, crabcakes, steak, and other creatively-prepared dishes. All of this should, of course, be washed down with an appropriate beer (they do have a wine list, however).

We've found the staff to be friendly and knowledgeable about the beer and food they serve. They love to recommend specific beers for untrained taste buds.

If you have room, the fresh desserts are always interesting. One unique possibility is one of their Belgian "dessert" beers. We love the Liefmans Frambozen, with an unusual raspberry flavor.

When you're ready for a round of good beer and food, you don't have to head to Germany. Just walk over to the Commercial Taphouse & Grill. Cheers!!

Commercial Taphouse & Grill

111 N. Robinson Street

Richmond, VA 23220

(804) 359-6544