Travel America....

BALTIMORE, MARYLAND:

CHARM CITY TURNS 200

Oh, say, can you see Baltimore? Francis Scott Key, of "Star-Spangled Banner" fame, certainly saw the city and so have I (more recently, of course). If you haven't seen Maryland's historic port city in the past 200 years, it's time to go to the charm city of "The Land of Pleasant Living."

"Baltimore is one of America's great cities," an old Army buddy 'Hap' Cooper told me during a recent visit. He should know. He's a Baltimore native and seems to know every nook and cranny of the metropolis. As we walked past yet another pretty rowhouse, he said, "With so much history, sightseeing, and great food, it's easy to see why my city is such a popular travel destination. But I'd rather live here than just visit." For those of us who can only visit, here's a Baltimore overview just in time for the city's big bicentennial bash.

Incorporated in 1797 and dubbed "Charm City," Baltimore is the 13th largest city in the U.S. Blessed with its natural Chesapeake Bay harbor, the charmed shipping city lies further west than any other Atlantic port, which has endeared the harbor to shippers worldwide and ranked it fifth among U.S. ports. The port has given Baltimore a cosmopolitan feel, with clearly identified neighborhoods and a local flavor unlike many large U.S. cities.

The city's roots lie in the economic needs of 18th century Maryland farmers and seamen. Baltimore was established as a convenient Chesapeake Bay port for farmers and the shipwrights and merchants that followed. The city quickly grew as the harbor prospered.

Baltimore was successfully defended during the Revolutionary War, though a British admiral had promised, "Baltimore is a doomed town." During the summer of 1814, the British attacked the city by land and sea, but were held off by the guns of Fort McHenry--the bombardment of which was commemorated in a poem by Francis Scott Key, which would eventually become our "National Anthem."

Baltimore was not directly affected by Civil War battles and the city continued to prosper through the 20th century. However, after World War II, city residents were attracted to new housing developments beyond Baltimore's borders and many left people the downtown area. The city, which had grown consistently in population, actually began to shrink. This "suburban flight" initially depressed downtown Baltimore's economy and tourism.

However, the 70s charmed "Charm City" again. William Donald Schaefer, elected Mayor in 1971 (and, later, Maryland's governor), encouraged a redoubling of efforts from municipal, business, and volunteer groups, as well as ambitious federal programs for urban renewal.

Where dilapidated wharves and warehouses once stood, attractive hotels, office buildings, and entertainment facilities like Harborplace, the National Aquarium, and the Maryland Science Center now stand. Baltimoreans have also regained a sense of pride in their city, which visitors immediately sense when they inevitably start their tours around Inner Harbor.

Baltimore revolves around the water and visitors and locals alike revolve around Inner Harbor to enjoy it. Downtown Baltimore's renaissance began in earnest in the early-1970s, with the city's redevelopment of the 240-acre Inner Harbor area. Inner Harbor has served as Baltimore's downtown magnet for locals and tourists ever since.

Inner Harbor's Harborplace features a cornucopia of food, fashion, and style. Two sunlit pavilions offer dining, shopping, and superb scenery. It's a great place to buy your first Baltimore souvenir, as well as sampling some fresh local seafood.

Inner Harbor also offers many sightseeing attractions right on the water. Climb aboard the decks of the United States Submarine Torsk or the U.S.F. Constellation, the oldest American warship continuously afloat. Then discover hands-on exhibits and fascinating shows in the Davis Planetarium and the five-story IMAX Theater at the Maryland Science Center.

Leave plenty of time to explore the wonders of the National Aquarium (many people spend an entire day there). Now one of the city's biggest attractions, the aquarium is home for more then 5,000 specimens of aquatic life. Kids, kids at heart, and even landlubbers will love the displays, exhibits, and shows like the spectacular Marine Mammal Pavilion.

It's easy to float your boat (or someone else's) in Baltimore. Water taxis, paddle boats, and other vessels make sightseeing and travel to the city's on-the-water attractions simple. Visitors can enjoy a replica of Baltimore's famous clipper ships, working skipjacks, charter yachts, cruising vessels, and, often, majestic tall ships of the world that welcome visitors aboard for a tour or a scenic voyage.

The cultural scene downtown is also thriving. Gallery-goers will enjoy the Baltimore Museum of Art (noted for its post-impressionist works); the Walters Art Gallery (with treasures ranging from Egyptian to modern art); the Maryland Institute of Art; and the unusual Hackerman House of Asian Art. A stroll along fashionable Charles Street, where art galleries flourish, is also an artful choice.

The historical museum offerings in Baltimore are as rich as the city's history. There are plenty of places to step back in time to an earlier Baltimore and these aren't the stuffy museums you used to visit on some school field trip. This is living history, Baltimore-style.

Start with the Baltimore City Life Museums, which are actually the homes of Declaration of Independence signer Charles Carrol and noted author H.L. Mencken, the Peale Museum, and other restored 19th century buildings. The Great Blacks in Wax Museum, the first of its kind in the nation, features life-like recreations of such famous figures as Harriet Tubman, Thurgood Marshall, and Martin Luther King, Jr.

The birthplace of Babe Ruth commemorates the great Bambino, who was born George Herman Ruth in Baltimore in 1895. The house chronicle's the Babe's life, as well as hosting the Baltimore Orioles Museum, making it America's second largest baseball museum (behind Cooperstown). The new ballpark nearby was actually built on the site where the Babe's father once ran a saloon.

Armchair poets may want to visit the home of Edgar Allan Poe, while armchair seamstresses (and patriots) should head for the home of Mary Pickersgill, who sewed the flag that flew over Fort McHenry when Francis Scott Key penned his famous lines.

Other museums of interest include the Baltimore Maritime Museum, the Baltimore Museum of Industry, the Baltimore Streetcar Museum, and the Maryland Historical Society Museum (containing the original "Star-Spangled Banner" manuscript). Too many museum choices are enough to drive any Baltimore visitor mad.

Because Baltimore is ethnically diverse, several flavorful neighborhoods have developed. The rowhouse stoops of many areas serve as great backdrops for further exploration of the melting pot that Baltimore has become.

Little Italy is one of the tastiest choices for neighborhood meanderings. Old World Italian Baltimoreans and restaurants welcome visitors from around the world. Lots of pasta and plenty of pizzaz can be found every night in Little Italy.

Nearby, Fell's Point is another popular neighborhood. This handsome maritime community, founded in the 1700s, features quaint restaurants, taverns, and accommodations in an old Baltimore style.

Further afield, take in the stunning harbor views atop Federal Hill, stroll the streets of Bolton Hill just like F. Scott Fitzgerald did before you, find an old bargain in Antique Row, or explore the renovated rowhouse residences of Otterbein, perhaps the nation's most successful example of urban homesteading.

With cuisine as varied as its neighborhoods, Baltimore doesn't disappoint visitors dining out. From the freshest local seafood to dozens of ethnic eateries, the city's restaurants really cook.

Baltimore is first and foremost a crab town. Hard shell blue crabs are steamed and served throughout the city. If you've never eaten crabs before, Baltimore is the best place to try them.

Other tasty stops around Baltimore include dozens of dining options at Inner Harbor, the local market atmosphere in 200-year-old Lexington Market (a downtown market where delicacies are sold from stalls owned by families for generations), and the growing restaurant and bar scene around Fell's Point. As you can guess, for pasta and lots of atmosphere, head back to Little Italy.

Thanks to the water and a moderate climate, Baltimore is a great place to be outside. From a sailing adventure on the Chesapeake Bay to a wild adventure at the Baltimore Zoo, the great outdoors can keep visitors active.

Baltimore's outdoors is also for the birds--major league baseball's Baltimore Orioles. Many tourists head to the city just to see the Orioles play in highly-acclaimed Oriole Park at Camden Yards, a state-of-the-art baseball park with an old-fashioned ambiance. It's a great way to end a day or a week in Baltimore.

With the official 1997 Baltimore Bicentennial Celebration, there's never been a better time to visit. The logo for the celebration contains gold to symbolize the celebration, blue to represent Baltimore's connection with the water, and starts in recognition of the city as the birthplace of the "Star-Spangled Banner.

Special events include an expanded New Year's Eve Extravaganza on December 31, 1996; a huge Baltimore Neighborhood Block Party in April; the Baltimore Bicentennial Birthday Bash, a two-week festival concluding on the July 4th weekend; and the Gala Birthday Weekend, a celebration of multiple public birthday parties in October. They are also building a new Bicentennial Plaza that will be the location of the new Inner Harbour Welcome Center in July.

You won't have an opportunity like this for another 200 years. For further information about visiting Baltimore, contact the Baltimore Area Visitors Center (Travel America Magazine) at 301 East Pratt Street, Baltimore, MD 21202-3106; (410) 837-4636 or (800) 282-6632.