Air South....

SOUTH BEACH:

AN INSIDER'S GUIDE ON WHERE

TO SLEEP, EAT, & BE MERRY IN SOBE

Miami Beach's South Beach is neon-hot. With the nation's largest Art Deco historic district, the trendiest of accommodations options, creative chefs in varied restaurants, designer shopping, and the nonstop action of the ever-so-wide beach, the aqua Atlantic, and Ocean Drive's people-watching, SoBe is the place to be. It's like visiting a movie set (al la Birdcage), but this setting is ever so real.

South Beach is enjoying an tourism and economic boom that springs from the refurbishment of the area's Art Deco District. From cafes and clubs along Ocean Drive, Washington Avenue, and Lincoln Road to the hot hotels and restaurants everywhere, South Beach is sizzling with the vibrant colors of Art Deco architecture and style.

In less than 15 minutes, you can reach South Beach from Miami International Airport. But you'll end up in another world. Here is a guide to the best of this unique world's hotels, restaurants, shopping, and culture:

SLEEP

For an area its size, South Beach has a remarkably large number of high-quality accommodations, with a wide variety of styles. All of the following choices are located in renovated Art Deco structures, in which millions of dollars have been invested to upgrade everything (while keeping and enhancing the integrity of the buildings). The resulting recommendations make for unique places to stay in South Beach.

The Delano reigns as the hottest hotel. Located conveniently on Collins Avenue (beachfront), just north of Ocean Drive, The Delano is the vogue South Beach place to see and be seen. The completely renovated hotel is literally white-hot, thanks to a design and decorating scheme that generally features nothing but the soothing color white. The talented haute hotelier, Ian Shrager, and his equally adept designer, Philippe Starck, have repeated the success they've enjoyed with New York's Morgans, Paramount, and Royalton, as well as L.A.'s Mondrian. From the indoor/outdoor lobby to the "water salon" pool, this complete resort also features a women-only spa, a David Barton gym, an eat-in kitchen and several other innovative dining areas, a private beach area, and a huge array of international furniture and object. It's 238 guest rooms, lofts, suites, apartments, and duplex poolside bungalows are models of modern simplicity. They are custom-painted in white and pearl-gray, with a wide array of all-white features and amenities.

If you want to stay in the heart and soul of South Beach and tend to enjoy the hustle and bustle of city life, Ocean Drive is your best bet. The Pelican Hotel, the first property created by Diesel Jeans International, is like a perfect South Beach rendition of the company's eccentric advertising campaigns. All 25 rooms have been furnished, decorated, and named with their own style. Examples include the Psychedelic room, made with plastic furniture and posters from the 70s; the African room, with a triumph of Zebra stripes furnished in old safari style; and a tribute to the American flag, the Stars and Stripes room. Other favorites include Best Whorehouse, Halfway to Hollywood, and Me Tarzan, You Vain. There are also three executive oceanfront suites, featuring the styles of the 30s, 50s, and 60s.

The Ocean Front Hotel, is another other excellent Ocean Drive option. Located in a quieter stretch of this busy street, the Ocean Front offers just 23 oceanview or oceanfront rooms, as well as four with city views, all of which are soundproof. The Mediterranean-style hotel features 1930s French and English antique furniture, varying from room to room. The oceanfront superior deluxe room, with an oceanfront balcony, is an excellent choice. The penthouse suite is simply one of the finest options (and views) in South Florida.

Situated on the southern end of Ocean Drive, the Century Hotel offers tropical touches like mosquito-netted beds, painted wood floors, and an ever-present gecko logo. Across the street, their Century Beach Club has Ocean Drive's only accommodations located directly on the beach.

The Park Central Hotel is another excellent Ocean Drive address. This member of the Historic Hotels of America features oceanview windows, ceiling fans, period furniture, and many other reminder's of what drew the continent's chick and famous to the hotel in the 1930s. Other solid Ocean Drive choices include the Colony Hotel, La Voile Rouge, and the Clevelander Hotel.

Though many ill-informed visitors think of South Beach and Ocean Drive as synonomous, you definitely don't have to stay on the ocean to get the full flavor of this multi-street mecca. In fact, many knowledgeable visitors head inland for a bit more sedate stay. Located on Washington Avenue, two blocks off Ocean Drive, Hotel Astor provides a perfect example of the possibilities. Just opened last year, this intimate 42-room hotel has attained a casual elegance typically associated with only the finest European-style concierge hotels. The scents of gardenia and jasmine greet guests as they enter and the soothing sounds of a 30-foot poolside water sculpture just off the lobby keep city sounds at bay. The 8 one-bedroom junior suites are a great value at this Washington Avenue hideaway.

On Collins Avenue, a block off Ocean Drive and in the heart of South Beach, the Marlin Hotel is the brainchild of Chris Blackwell, founder of Island Records. The Marlin's stylish decor is the work of acclaimed designer Barbara Hulanick, whose creations combine the undulating shapes and cool hues of the sea with the funky style of Jamaica, where Blackwell grew up (she calls it, "seashore with Jamaican vibes"). The funky hotel has just 12 units, ranging from studios to two-bedroom suites. Just choose your color: shrimp pink in the Barbie room; vibrant yellows, blues, and ochres in the Mexican room; or violet in the African room, which is filled with original Jamaican, Haitian, and Cuban artwork. The Marlin is the flagship property of Island Outpost, which also includes South Beach's Cavalier, Leslie, Casa Grande, and Kent hotels; Compass Point and Pink Sands in the Bahamas; and Strawberry Hill, Good Hope Plantation, and Jake's Village in Jamaica.

Up on Lincoln Road, the Van Dyke Loftel offers two of the most unusual and lesser-known rooms in all of South Beach (or the world, for that matter). For a well-spent $650 per night, guests enjoy an incredible 2,500-square-foot Soho-style penthouse or garden loft, panoramic views, full kitchen, hair salon and spa, full butler service, and all the liveliness of Lincoln Road.

If you want to stay completely away from the South Beach bustle, but still enjoy the proximity and flavor of the Art Deco District, look no further than the Indian Creek Hotel. Indian Creek melds the graciousness of a small European hostelry with the informal charm of a Key West guesthouse. Built in 1936, the "Pueblo Deco" hotel has been fully restored and retains its Art Deco appeal with modern amenities. When you exit the exquisitely furnished lobby, you're just a block from the ocean and boardwalk or within strolling distance of Lincoln Road and a long walk or short drive to Ocean Drive. For one of the best values in South Beach ask for one of the six suites.

EAT

The upscale and trendy set that has made South Beach a special place to stay also demands excellence at the table. South Beach restaurateurs have responded with an astounding number of dining spots, putting other larger cities to shame. From nouvelle Cuban to straightforward South Florida seafood, the restaurant scene on South Beach is spicy hot. In all cases, reservations are highly-recommended.

Of course, Joe's Stone Crab leads the list of South Beach eateries and for good reason. This legendary restaurant was famous before South Beach was a glimmer in Hollywood's intense lenses (one ad campaign states, "Before SoBe, Joe Be"). Quite simply, if you go to South Beach (or anywhere in South Florida, for that matter), you must go to Joe's. Family-owned and -operated for the past 80 years, veteran visitors and locals still love the sweet taste of fresh stone crabs, but they also enjoy some secrets (steaks, chops, and salads). Don't leave without trying the key lime pie. You can usually avoid two-hour waits by going there for lunch or early- or late-dinner (5-6:30pm or 10-11pm). There's also a new Joe's Take Away & Coffee Bar, as well as FedEx delivery to anywhere in the continental U.S. (800-780-CRAB).

Located at the Ocean Front Hotel (see above), Les Deux Fontaines brings a bit of Paris to Ocean Drive. Though quite unpretentious, the brasserie-style restaurant is popular with the likes of neighbor Gianni Versace. The impeccable elevated terrace overlooking Ocean Drive is the setting for a meal that features generally low-fat health conscious fresh and flavorful Provencal-style cuisine. Veterans swear by the Ceviche de Grouper or Melon Champagne and Mint Soup to start, followed by the Snapper Provencal or Veal Valparaiso.

Ocean Drive also offers many other fine dining spots, with locals and visitors strolling the busy sidewalks and making their dining choice by the look of the interior or the looks of the posted menus. The Pelican Cafe is one of many great Ocean Drive choices. Located at the Pelican Hotel (see above), chef Peter Masiello has made his world cuisine versions of New Zealand Baby Lamp Chops (roasted with rosemary and balsamic reduction, mashed potatoes, and spinach) and the grilled swordfish with sauteed spinach, capers, corn polenta, and fresh chopped tomatoes. For dessert, try either the famous Pelican tiramisu or the silky mango/vanilla bean custard, with caramelized sugar top.

Lincoln Road has rebounded to become one of South Beach's best dining and shopping spots (for an unusual stay on this famous stretch, check out the Van Dyke Hotel, above), featuring a 10-block retail district stretching from ocean to bay (including a sharply renovated seven-block pedestrian mall). Many Lincoln Road afficionados shop until they drop into one of many excellent restaurants.

Though residents and visitors may never have dreamed of trading their stone crabs for Mongolian lamb salad, they are definitely finding the time to try Pacific Time. Serving what chef/co-owner Jonathan Eismann calls "Asian-influenced American food with a 'French head'," Pacific Time puts out masterful food in a soaring space, where South Beach surfers sit next to Hollywood elite. Eismann combines the American affinity for experimentation with the spices, flavors, and textures of Far East, resulting in dishes like Cedar Roast Atlantic Salmon. While Atlantic salmon rubbed with olive oil and roasted in the oven on a cedar plank epitomizes western ingredients and cooking style, the raw, salted salmon rolls lend an eastern sensibility to the dish. An east/west mustard sauce, blending French pommerey and Japanese wasabi, finishes the concept.

Even if you're not lured by the lofts of Van Dyke Loftel, be sure to have a drink or a meal at the Van Dyke Cafe, which has become a Lincoln Road magnet. The Van Dyke's sister restaurant, News Cafe, is a busy all-day magnet Ocean Drive for creative cafe fare.

Other excellent Lincoln Road options include Norma's On the Beach (Caribbean) and Yuca (Cuban). After you've dined, Lincoln Road is perfect for shopping and entertainment.

Washington Avenue is another street that has developed into a food and shopping center, as well as featuring a great place to stay (the Astor Hotel, see above). The Astor's restaurant, Astor Place Bar & Grill, is already one of Washington Avenue's most popular eateries. Restaurateur Dennis Max has created a menu that can be best described as "Cowboy Caribbean," fusing grilled, smoked, or spit-fire meats, poultry, fruits, and tasty BBQ sauces with tropical ingredients like boniato, jicama, scotch bonnet pepper, yuca, and stone crab. Be sure to try the Zarzuela, a succulent stew of fresh Florida lobster, clams, local fish, shrimp, scallops, yuca, and peppers, in a habanero-mango broth.

One other Washington Avenue entry with mixed roots is China Grill, where chef Ephraim Kadish has invented a number of dishes that intermingle Italian, Japanese, French, Chinese, and American ingredients. While Asian flavors and techniques are an influence, his world cuisine has no boundaries. Spectacular entrees, large enough for two or three people, include grilled Australian lamb with Mandarin orange sauce, rosemary skewered scallops with plum and goat cheese risotto, a sizzling whole fish served with Chinese black bean and red chili sauce, and a perfectly grilled 38-ounce porterhouse steak with roasted garlic, shallots, and orange rosemary teriyaki sauce. There's also a China Grill in Manhattan (212-333-7788).

Other excellent Washington Avenue eateries include the new and red-hot Mercury (modern American), Ruen Thai Restaurant (Thai), and Lulu's Restaurant (down-home American). Mercury's chef/partner Kerry Simon is receiving especially rave reviews for his creative fare, ranging from the legendary mashed potatoes to the steak teriyaki or grilled barbecue lobster.

Over on Collins Avenue, the Raleigh Hotel (another good Collins Avenue hotel choice) features the "new American" cuisine of Marc Lippman at the Raleigh Restaurant. The entree list that features a plethora of local fresh fish, fruits, and vegetables, including pompano with leeks and citrus or Moroccan BBQ swordfish with Israeli couscous and bay scallops (the hearts of palm mashed potatoes make for a perfect accompaniment). There's also a spa menu and a cigar menu, with a wide range of fat-free creations or some of the world's finest cigars.

Even further afield, whether or not you're a guest, be sure to enjoy at least one meal at Indian Creek Hotel's Pan Coast Restaurant. Native chef Mary Rohan whips out her favorite Pan-Asian and Caribbean dishes.

AND BE MERRY...Shopping, Culture, & Clubs

With so many fashion models and famous people (some of whom are fashion models), it's natural that the shopping choices suit their tastes. Ocean Drive, Collins Avenue, Washington Avenue, Lincoln Road, and the accompanying cross streets provide the swankiest shopping streets.

The most popular shopping spots include Gianni Versace, Armani Exchange, Kenneth Cole, Banana Republic, Succa, A.B.S., and Island Trading, all which are on or near Ocean Drive, Collins, or Washington. But there's also huge roster of eclectic boutiques on Lincoln Road (ideal for strolling and spending morning to midnight).

Though some would say that South Beach's culture is limited to people-watching on Ocean Drive, there's much more to this vibrant area, thanks to many creative minds and souls. Some possibilities for those in-the-know include: the numerous art galleries on Lincoln Road (they're open late on Thursday nights); fascinating Miami Design Preservation League walking tours of the Art Deco District; the Bass Museum of Art (Art Deco building, with 14th to 20th century art); the Wolfsonian (a huge and eclectic collection from the late-19th to mid-20th centuries); the Sanford L. Ziff Jewish Museum; and a wide variety of performances at the stunning Jackie Gleason Theater or a host of scheduled events with Lincoln Road's acclaimed Miami City Ballet or New World Symphony.

For a different kind of 'culture,' the club scene in South Beach is beyond comparison. From foam parties to Latin-style dancing 'til the wee hours, clubs like Bang, Van Dome, Amnesia, Bash, the Cleveland Bar, Kremlin (gay), Berlin, Glam Slam, Groove Jet, Liquid, 821 (gay), and 841 are all hot to nighttime-trotters. To avoid disappointment or embarassment, be sure to call first to see what's happening at particular clubs on particular nights, as well as to make sure the club hasn't closed in this quickly-changing entertainment environment. Tara Solomon's column in Thursday's Miami Herald and the weekly New Times are also great club resources.

Thus, you now know where to sleep, eat, and be merry in South Beach. You, too, can be hip and hot in SoBe.

SIDEBARS

HOTELS

--The Delano, 1685 Collins Avenue. Tel: 305-672-2000 or 800-555-5001.

--Pelican Hotel, 826 Ocean Drive. Tel: 305-673-3373 or 800-7-PELICAN.

--Oceanfront Hotel, 1230-38 Ocean Drive. Tel: 305-672-2579.

--Century Hotel, 140 Ocean Drive. Tel: 305-674-8855.

--Park Central Hotel, 640 Ocean Drive. Tel: 305-538-1611 or 800-PARK CENTRAL.

--Colony Hotel, 736 Ocean Drive. Tel: 305-673-0088 or 800-226-5669.

--La Voile Rouge, 455 Ocean Drive. Tel: 305-531-4107 or 800-528-6455.

--Clevelander Hotel, 1020 Ocean Drive. Tel: 305-531-3485.

--Hotel Astor, 956 Washington Avenue. Tel: 305-531-8081 or 800-270-4981.

--Marlin Hotel, 1200 Collins Avenue. Tel: 305-673-8770 or 800-OUTPOST.

--Van Dyke Loftel, 846 Lincoln Road. Tel: 305-534-3600 or 800-OUTPOST.

--Indian Creek Hotel, 2727 Indian Creek Drive. Tel: 305-531-2727.

RESTAURANTS

--Joe's Stone Crab, 227 Biscayne Street. Tel: 673-0365.

--Les Deux Fontaines, 1230-38 Ocean Drive. Tel: 672-7878.

--The Pelican Cafe, 826 Ocean Drive. Tel: 673-3373.

--Pacific Time, 915 Lincoln Road. Tel: 534-5979.

--Van Dyke Cafe, 846 Lincoln Road. Tel: 534-3600.

--News Cafe, 800 Ocean Drive. Tel: 531-0392.

--Norma's On the Beach, 646 Lincoln Road. Tel: 532-2809.

--Yuca, 501 Lincoln Road. Tel: 534-4292

--Astor Place Bar & Grill, 956 Washington Avenue. Tel: 531-8081.

--China Grill, 404 Washington Avenue. Tel: 534-2211.

--Mercury, 764 Washington Avenue. Tel: 532-0070.

--Ruen Thai Restaurant, 947 Washington Avenue. Tel: 534-1504.

--Lulu's Restaurant, 1053 Washington Avenue. Tel: 532-6147.

--Raleigh Restaurant, 1775 Collins Avenue. Tel: 534-6300.

--Pan Coast Restaurant, 2727 Indian Creek Drive. Tel: 531-2727.

SHOPPING

--Gianni Versace, 755 Washington Avenue. Tel: 532-5993.

--Armani Exchange, 760 Collins Avenue. Tel: 531-5900.

--Kenneth Cole, 190 8th Street. Tel: 673-5151.

--Banana Republic, 800 Collins Avenue. Tel: 674-7079.

--Succa, 710 Washington Avenue. Tel: 531-2312.

--A.B.S., 226 8th Street. Tel: 672-8887.

--Island Trading, 1330 Ocean Drive. Tel: 531-8345.

CULTURE & CLUBS

--Lincoln Road Partnership (for art galleries and other Lincoln Road

information), 924 Lincoln Road, Suite 200. Tel: 531-3442.

--Miami Design Preservation League (walking tours of the Art Deco District),

1234 Washington Avenue. Tel: 672-2014.

--Bass Museum of Art, 2100 Park Avenue. Tel: 673-7530.

--Wolfsonian, 1001 Washington Avenue. Tel: 531-1001.

--Sanford L. Ziff Jewish Museum, 301 Washington Avenue. Tel: 672-5044.

--Jackie Gleason Theater, 1700 Washington Avenue. Tel: 673-7300.

--Miami City Ballet, 905 Lincoln Road. Tel: 532-7713.

--New World Symphony, 541 Lincoln Road. Tel: 673-3331.

--For everchanging clubs and bars, call once you're there to find out schedules and current styles.