Recreation News....

WEST VIRGINIA'S EASTERN PANHANDLE:

COUNTRY ROAD GATEWAY TO A WILD AND WONDERFUL STATE

West Virginia's Eastern Panhandle provides the perfect introduction to the state. The proximity to Washington, DC makes the area a bit more cosmopolitan than many other parts of the state, but you'll still find the great outdoors, friendly people, history, and great places to stay. It's an ideal mix for an ideal West Virginia country road drive.

The best place to start a country road exploration of the Eastern Panhandle is in Charles Town. Founded in 1786 by an act of the Virginia Legislature on land donated by George Washington's youngest brother, Charles, this town has a long and interesting history. Washington fell in love with the area as an 18-year-old surveyor, investing his first earnings in 550 acres and later enlarging it to 2,300 acres. Charles inherited the land and a love for it from George. He eventually laid out the town, much as it is today.

Today, you can see the historic legacy of the Washington family and much more. The raid on Harpers Ferry by abolitionist John Brown brought Charles Town into the limelight in 1859, while Brown was held prisoner in the Charles Town jail (now a post office), tried, convicted, and executed by hanging.

Charles Town Main Street has published an informative walking tour brochure that is available at many establishments, as well as at the Jefferson Visitor & Convention Bureau out on Route 340. You can locate most of the structures in the 11-block area in a few hours, including Happy Retreat, Charles Washington's home.

Historical points of interest include the Court House, where John Brown was tried, the Post Office, and the Old Opera House, which now features performing arts. The Zion Episcopal Church nearby surely holds the greatest number of Washington family descendants (more than 80).

Charles Town is a great base for exploring the Eastern Panhandle. If you plan to spend the night, contact one of many B&Bs and inns in or around town: Carriage Inn Bed & Breakfast; Cottonwood Inn; Hillbrook Inn (a country house hotel); and the Washington House Inn Bed & Breakfast. The dining scene in Charles Town is equally historic. The Charles Washington Inn dates from the 18th century, but the old-fashioned food is fresh and tasty.

About halfway along the five-mile drive on Route 340 to Harpers Ferry, look for the Fruit & Veggie Wagon on the left-hand side of the road, at the intersection of Route 340 and Country Club Road. This "wagon" store offers lots of local fruits and vegetables, cider, jams, jellies, and flowers.

Soon after this, you'll see Blue Ridge Outfitters on the right, which one of several outdoors-oriented companies taking advantage of the pretty Shenandoah and Potomac Rivers. Since 1972, Blue Ridge Outfitters has offered rafting trips on the two beautiful rivers that meet at Harpers Ferry. Their most popular trip is on the Shenandoah's final section, before she merges with the mighty Potomac.

The Jefferson County Convention and Visitors Bureau sits directly across from the right-hand turn for Harpers Ferry National Historical Park. This helpful office has a huge variety of brochures for the area.

It's best to follow the signs to the official park entrance and parking for Harpers Ferry National Historical Park, rather than trying to find a rare parking space in Harpers Ferry proper. Helpful visitor center personnel can answer questions, provide maps, and get you on the frequent shuttle into town.

This modern bus deposits you into another world. Situated at the confluence of the Shenandoah and Potomac Rivers in the shadow of the Blue Ridge Mountains, Harpers Ferry became an important industrialized transportation hub and arms-producing town in the 18th and 19th centuries.

The town came to national prominence on the night of October 16, 1859, with John Brown's infamous raid. John Brown was tried for murder, treason, and conspiring with slaves to create insurrection. He was found guilty and hanged in Charles Town on December 2, 1859.

Harpers Ferry was devastated during the Civil War. Because of its strategic location, the town was occupied by both sides and suffered through many major battles. It fell into decay before serious restoration work by the government saved the town for all to visit. Today, the Harpers Ferry National Historical Park is a national treasure.

The park map is perfect for an extensive walking tour, which starts in the information center housed in the old Stagecoach Inn, run by Major James Stephenson from 1826-34. Along Shenandoah Street, many buildings evoke the boom days of Harpers Ferry. The recreated Provost Office shows the wartime office of the Union provost guard. The Dry Goods Store, built in 1812 depicts a typical dry goods store in the 1850s. Next door the Master Armorer's House serves as a fascinating museum concerning the history of gunmaking. Further down Shenandoah Street, the John Brown Museum houses a theater and museum relating the events of John Brown's historic raid.

Once you see Harpers Ferry, you're sure to want to stay for more than a day. The quaint town features many appropriate accommodations options: Between the Rivers; Filmore Street B&B; Harpers Ferry Guest House; Lee Stonewall Inn; Ranson-Armory House; and The View. They are all individually-owned and -operated and are located right in the heart of the Historic District. For historic meals, The Anvil Restaurant is one of many popular choices in town or just up the hill. The Hilltop House Hotel, Restaurant, & Conference Center offers excellent meals and views (as well as a scenic place to stay).

Harpers Ferry is also conveniently near the Appalachian Trail. The Appalachian National Scenic Trail is one of the world's greatest hiking trails. The famed A.T. is a 2,144-mile hiking "path" along the ridge of the Appalachian Mountains, stretching from Georgia to Maine. It runs through 14 states to the finish at Katahdin, Maine.

Head back toward Charles Town and then take a right on Route 9. Follow Route 9 for seven miles to Kearneysville, then turn right onto Route 480 and head five miles, where historic Shepherdstown and the Bavarian Inn and Lodge await the arrival of many country road drivers.

Shepherdstown and its surroundings hold fascination for any visitor seeking to savor a small college town. Shepherd College plays a big role in the life of this pretty town. It was founded in 1871 and its pretty campus is enjoyable for strolling. The college has given cultural vibrancy to Shepherdstown, drawing many artists to the area.

This village is easy to explore on foot. There are many historic 18th and 19th century commercial and residential buildings. Shopping, dining, lodging, and cultural events all reveal Shepherdstown cosmopolitan nature. There's even a Sunday morning market, where you'll find fresh bread, vegetables, flowers, and friendly locals. The Shepherdstown Visitor Center can provide a walking tour map, as well as accommodations, dining, and shopping options. The old Entler Hotel houses the Historic Shepherdstown Museum.

Across the street, you'll find the Yellow Brick Bank Restaurant, a fancy Beaux Arts building that you can't miss. The food is as creative as the architecture. Other dining possibilities right in town include The Old Pharmacy Cafe & Soda Fountain and Town Run Deli.

Just outside of town, on Washington Street at Toll House Turn, O'Hurley's General Store is an unusual "shopping" attraction. This incredible country store recreation, owned by friendly Jay Hurley, features a seemingly infinite amount of turn-of-the-century goods, as well as more current items.

As can be expected, the town also has many B&Bs and inns that cater to visitors. Two top choices are the Thomas Shepherd Inn and Gay Shepherd Henderson's Bellevue Bed & Breakfast. Just outside of town, Ann Small's Stonebrake Cottage Guest House offers a Victorian retreat.

Finally, Sherpherdstown's Bavarian Inn and Lodge is one of West Virginia's most popular destinations. The award-winning Bavarian Inn and Lodge is owned and operated by a native Bavarian from Munich, Erwin Asam, and his British wife, Carol, as well as their sons, Christian and David. From the meals to the rooms to the people, you'll find gracious old world hospitality.

Head back to Route 9 and west to Martinsburg. This friendly town is known for its shopping (and for good reason). The Martinsburg-Berkeley County Convention & Visitors Bureau, at 208 South Queen Street, can provide an historic walking tour map, as well as information about shopping, accommodations, and dining. A walking tour really reveals the wealth of architecture and history in this small city.

There is also historic shopping in Martinsburg, which draws thousands of visitors. Unlike many outlet shopping centers, the Blue Ridge Outlet Center is clean, attractive, well-run, and full of bargains. Historic turn-of-the-century woolen mills have been transformed into an authentic manufacturers' outlet, featuring brands you'd never dream of finding at such low prices. You can save up to 70% on products from companies like: American Eagle, Anne Klein, Arrow, Britches, Champion, Corning/Revere Ware, Dansk, Aigner, J. Crew, Johnston & Murphy Footwear, L'eggs/Hanes/Bali, London Fog, Ralph Lauren, Van Heusen, fine glass from West Virginia, and much more. It's a Martinsburg and West Virginia experience that should not be missed.

Other shopping stops include Panhandle Pottery and Designs, Stephen Street Emporium, Wright's Stained Glass & Custom Art, and many other stores that seem to fill Martinsburg's busy streets. Many shoppers will want to make Martinsburg their Eastern Panhandle base. Quaint in-city accommodations options include the Boydville Inn Bed & Breakfast, the Pulpit & Palette Inn, and the Aspen Hall Inn. For shopping energy, you need to eat. The American Deli right in the Blue Ridge Outlet is a popular spot, as are the Market House Grill and Ramon's right in town.

The half-hour drive on Route 9 to Berkeley Springs provides a hint of the country town to come. In a region where George Washington seems to have slept, ate, or visited everywhere, this town can claim that George Washington bathed there. Washington recognized the restorative powers, as did Indians before him and as do today's visitors after him.

Berkeley Springs State Park is at the center of it all, right in the middle of town. This unique seven-acre park features an 1815 Roman Bath House, with private 750-gallon bathing pools; a fascinating museum; a popular public tap; the stone tub used by Washington; and the Main Bath House, where a variety of "treatment" packages are offered at remarkably reasonable prices.

The area around the state park is packed with things to see and do. If you're not staying at Coolfont (see below), you should definitely consider the Country Inn (or a stay at both). Since 1932, the Country Inn has afforded rest and relaxation to countless visitors who have discovered Berkeley Springs and this resort. The Inn, which is all brick and of colonial design, is well-known for comfortable accommodations, an inviting colonial dining room, the Wayfarer's Lounge, the modern Renaissance Spa, and the porches and lawns that adjoin the village green and the state park.

Just outside town, situated on 1,200 acres in a hidden valley between Cacapon Mountain and Warm Springs Ridge, Coolfont is West Virginia recreation and relaxation at its finest. Family-owned and -operated, you'll find a friendly and relaxed environment, whether your there for a special weekend dinner or a week.

When you first see the resort, you see mountain vistas, two sparkling spring-fed lakes, and the beautiful Treetop House Restaurant. Only later do you realize that hidden in the unspoiled landscape is a variety of lodging and recreational facilities. You'll discover a lodge, chalets, vacation homes, a conference center, a wide variety of recreation and relaxation possibilities, and a famous restaurant high in the trees.

There's a wide range of accommodations, including nice lodge rooms and beautiful two-bedroom and two-bath chalets in the woods, with whirlpool tubs, woodburning firestoves, and outdoor decks. Coolfont possibilities include: indoor swimming; tennis; whirlpool tubs; a fitness center; concerts; hiking; fishing; spa pampering; massages; spa retreats; boating; smoking cessation programs; and some of the state's finest dining opportunities.

Back in town, the rest of Berkeley Springs is just as interesting. Travel Berkeley Springs, at 304 Fairfax Street, can provide walking tour maps and other information about accommodations, dining, shopping, and many special events.

As you would expect, many of the excellent shops revolve around health and fitness. Two of the best are The Bath House and Homeopathy Works, which are both on Fairfax Street. The Bath House is a complete health center that also offers books, gifts, massages, a catalog, and much more. Antique shopping is also another popular Berkeley Springs activity. The Berkeley Springs Antique Mall offers a wide variety of choices from a number of vendors.

If all of this healthy activity (or relaxation) makes you hungry, you have several fun choices right in town. For casual dining with lots of locals, try Tari's: A Premier Cafe & Inn, a fun place personally run by Tari. For a literally religious dining experience, head to Maria's Garden and Inn, where owner Peg Perry features great food and a huge collection of religious objects dedicated to the Virgin Mary. Regional cooking can be found at The Appalachian Restaurant.

Route 9 heads out of Berkeley Springs, as it makes its way through the pretty countryside and toward the Cacapon River. The river's namesake park, Cacapon Resort State Park, runs alongside Route 9 and its entrance is right on the road.

Cacapon Resort State Park stretches from the Virginia border to within five miles of the Potomac River and West Virginia's northern border with Maryland. The long and narrow 6,000-acre retreat offers a wide range of recreational activities.

Cacapon Mountain, at 2,300 feet, is the dominant feature within the park, following its length north and south. Hiking and bridle trails, as well as a road, climb 1,400 feet to the summit. Spur trails along the ridge bring hikers to large rock outcrops of resistant sandstone and offer spectacular views of the valley below.

Awaiting visitors in the secluded woodlands are 13 standard, 11 deluxe, and six economy log cabins, with wood-paneled walls, stone fireplaces, and kitchens. The cabins are generally open from mid-April through the end of October. Cacapon Lodge sits in the broad valley on the east side of the mountain. The 50-room facility also features a popular lounge, a fireplace, a restaurant, and a crafts shop.

The Old Inn, situated near the Lodge, was originally built in the 1930s by the Civilian Conservation Corps and offers 11 rooms in an historic and rustic atmosphere. Low ceilings, stone chimneys, and wrought iron hardware add to the effect. The Inn also features a large dining room and a kitchen.

Recreational activities at Cacapon are quite diverse. There's hiking and horseback riding on 27 miles of trails, running past laurel, pine, and mixed hardwood forests to scenic vistas atop Cacapon Mountain. Guests can swim, fish, and boat at spring- and stream-fed Cacapon Lake. Various games, including tennis and volleyball, are available for a small fee. Guests can also participate in the parks nature and recreation programs, including guided hikes, slide shows, craft workshops, and movies. With enough snow, cross country skiers can use the golf course.

The golf course, designed by Robert Trent Jones, has been rated as on of the best-designed courses in the country. The rolling terrain at the foot of the mountain is ideal for golf, with highlights including more than 70 sandtraps and a unique 100-yard wide green that is shared by the 4th and 8th holes. It's a great way to end your country road drive on par with West Virginia's Eastern Panhandle.

Contacts in the area:

All telephone numbers are within area code 304, unless otherwise noted.

Charles Town Main Street: 535-2627

Old Opera House (Charles Town): 725-4420

Carriage Inn Bed & Breakfast (Charles Town): 728-8003

Cottonwood Inn (Charles Town): 725-3371

Hillbrook Inn (Charles Town): 725-4223

Washington House Inn Bed & Breakfast (Charles Town): 725-7923

Charles Washington Inn (Charles Town): 725-4020

Fruit & Veggie Wagon (Charles Town): 725-7110

Blue Ridge Outfitters (Charles Town): 725-3444

Jefferson County Convention & Visitors Bureau (Harpers Ferry): 535-2627 or (800) 848-8687

Harpers Ferry National Historical Park: 535-6371

Between the Rivers (Harpers Ferry): 535-2768

Filmore Street B&B (Harpers Ferry): 535-2619

Harpers Ferry Guest House (Harpers Ferry): 535-6955

Lee Stonewall Inn (Harpers Ferry): 535-2532

Ranson-Armory House (Harpers Ferry): 535-2142

The View (Harpers Ferry): 535-2588

The Anvil Restaurant (Harpers Ferry): 535-2582

Hilltop House Hotel, Restaurant, & Conference Center (Harpers Ferry): 535-2132 or (800) 338-8319

Appalachian Trail Conference (Harpers Ferry): 535-6331.

Historic Shepherdstown Museum: 876-0910

Shepherdstown Visitor Information Center: 876-3325

Yellow Brick Bank Restaurant (Shepherdstown): 876-2208

Old Pharmacy Cafe & soda Fountain (Shepherdstown): 876-2085

Town Run Deli (Shepherdstown): 876-3200

O'Hurley's General Store (Shepherdstown): 876-6907

Thomas Shepherd Inn (Shepherdstown): 876-3715

Bellevue Bed & Breakfast (Shepherdstown): 876-2887

Stonebrake Cottage Guest House (Shepherdstown): 876-6607

Martinsburg-Berkeley County Convention & Visitors Bureau: 264-8801 or (800) 498-2386

Blue Ridge Outlet Center (Martinsburg): 254-4566 or (800) 445-3993

Panhandle Pottery and Designs (Martinsburg): 264-0478

Stephen Street Emporium (Martinsburg): 264-9130 or (800) 249-9130

Wright's Stained Glass & Custom Art (Martinsburg): 263-2502

Boydville Inn Bed and Breakfast (Martinsburg): 263-1448 or (202) 626-2896

Pulpit & Palette Inn (Martinsburg): 263-7012

Aspen Hall Inn (Martinsburg): 263-4385

American Deli (Martinsburg): 263-4656

Market House Grill (Martinsburg): 263-7615

Ramon's (Martinsburg): 263-2989

Coolfont Resort & Conference Center (Berkeley Springs): 258-4500 or (800) 888-8768

Berkeley Springs State Park: 258-2711 or (800) CALL WVA

Country Inn (Berkeley Springs): 258-2210 or (800) 822-6630

Travel Berkeley Springs: 258-9147 or (800) 447-8797

The Bath House (Berkeley Springs): 258-9071 or (800) 431-4698

Homeopathy Works (Berkeley Springs): 258-2541

Berkeley Springs Antique Mall (Berkeley Springs): 258-5676

Tari's: A Premier Cafe & Inn (Berkeley Springs): 258-1196

Maria's Garden & Inn (Berkeley Springs): 258-2021

The Appalachian Restaurant (Berkeley Springs): 258-3110

Cacapon State Park (Berkeley Springs): 258-1022 or (800) CALL WVA

This story was adapted from Lynn Seldon's upcoming book, Country Roads of West Virginia, which provides eight unique country road drives throughout the state. It is part of a series of books published by Country Roads Press (800-462-6420), which includes Country Roads of Virginia and Country Roads of Maryland & Delaware, also by Seldon.