Outdoor Traveler....

SCENIC ROUTE

HEADING TO THE HOMESTEAD

From Washington, take I-66 west about an hour, which intersects with I-81. Take I-81 south about an hour to Staunton. The US 250 exit begins the drive.

From Richmond, take I-64 west about 100 miles, which intersects with I-81 near Staunton. Take I-81 north to the first exit, which is US 250 and the beginning of the drive.

Highlights: The Buckhorn Inn; the George Washington National Forest; the Highland Inn; Fort Lewis Lodge; Warm Springs; and The Homestead experience. This drive could be completed in one day, but then you wouldn't get to stay at The Homestead. A long weekend, or much longer, is recommended.

"I remained here six days, and took the bath every day, with the best results." --Peregrine Prolix, 1837, Letters Descriptive of the Virginia Springs

You can always find a good reason for a country road drive in the winter. The lure of a winding road with great wintertime views, a small town, a well-known restaurant, a quaint B&B, or many other possibilities are reason enough to jump in the car and turn on the heater.

The Homestead is another one of those reasons. It's well worth the drive during any season, but a winter drive is truly special. The beautiful drive I typically take to The Homestead serves as a prelude to a typically wonderful stay.

The drive begins in the pretty Shenandoah Valley town of Staunton along US 250 and quickly changes into a winding country road. The mountains of the George Washington Forest loom ahead.

Make sure to look for the Buckhorn Inn (a restored 1811 inn), near Churchville. This rustic establishment draws regulars from all over the state for their famous country buffet. Time your drive to stop for lunch or supper (or the night--they have seven warm rooms).

Past Churchville, the road leads into the heart of the George Washington National Forest and some serious elevation gains (as well curvy roads and some great hiking trails). There aren't really many pull-offs during this portion, but there are some great views.

The Highland County scenic overlook at 2,110 feet features Confederate breast works from 1862. Confederate troops built these fortifications to block Union soldiers advancing from the Shenandoah Valley. A short loop trail provides a view of the breastworks and the surrounding countryside. But The Homestead beckons down the road.

After some major mountainous driving, the road finally heads out of the national forest and down into Monterey. This town is great for walking and exploring the area (it's near the West Virginia border).

One highlight of Monterey is the Highland Inn, a classic 1904 Victorian inn on the National Historic Register. They have 17 nice rooms, as well as gracious dining.

The road to The Homestead now truly begins with US 220 south. The views from our car windows offered cows, farmland, and a rushing stream due to some melting snow. About 20 miles out of Monterey, we entered Bath County, which was probably named for the town of Bath in England. The county line also put us back in the George Washington National Forest, which covers this entire area.

We couldn't make it over there on this drive, but the Fort Lewis Lodge off US 220 is a great retreat during or after a long drive. John and Caryl Cowden offer a scenic setting, modernly rustic accommodations, great meals, and plenty to do in their great outdoors. It's a perfect way to explore the forest if you have time.

The quaint mountain town of Warm Springs awaited us patiently just down US 220. One highlight for us at Warm Springs was the Warm Springs Pool. This throwback to another era offers soaks in clean, clear, and warm 90oF water. It's perfect after a long winter hike in the surrounding mountains.

But The Homestead still beckoned. It's just a pretty five mile drive into Hot Springs. As you head downhill and into town, The Homestead unfolds before you like a rich oriental carpet.

This sprawling property is a southern-style resort steeped in tradition dating back to 1766, but with many modern travel touches. You enter another world when you pull up to the elegant entrance and allow the crisp staff to take care of your car and luggage. Leave your worries in your auto.

For more than 225 years, country road drivers have come to The Homestead to restore and refresh themselves in the invigorating mountain air and soothing, healing waters. It was thought that the waters could cure or relieve the symptoms of ailments such as gout, rheumatism, arthritis, neuritis, lumbago, hypertension, nephritis, and nervous disorders.

Legend and local history says that The Homestead's hot springs were discovered by an Indian brave travelling through the mountains in the 16th century. He evidently found a spring of warm water, drank from it, slept, awoke the next day invigorated, and later spread the tale of his discovery.

Homestead rooms are unique and more like those of a small country inn. There's so much to see and do in the outdoors, however, that you don't end up spending too much time in your room.

A weekend is not nearly long enough to enjoy all that The Homestead has to offer during the winter. There are many pleasurable pursuits indoors and outdoors and it's just a matter of pursuing your passion.

Here's our short list of favorite Homestead winter activities: shopping along Cottage Row; fishing in a mountain stream; skeet shooting; bowling; horseback riding; hiking along dozens of trails; and skiing (ask about legendary Sepp Kober). We discover a new passion to pursue every time we take another country road drive to The Homestead in the winter.

The Spa is often my chosen spot after a long day outdoors. Discovered more than 400 years ago, the Hot Springs are legendary for their restorative powers. Built in 1892, The Spa is one of the first European-style spas and bathhouses in the U.S.

You can just relax in the indoor pool or you can go for the full treatment. The facility features a full-service hydrotherapeutic center offering various baths, steam room sauna, salt glow, swiss shower, scotch spray, massage, and much more. It's the ultimate way to remove any driving stiffness or soreness from too much time in the outdoors.

Once you feel fit, it's time for a filling meal. The Dining Room features a grand old gourmet experience with six course classic menus, buffets, live entertainment, ballroom dancing, and a magnificent, sparkling chandelier. The Grille offers late-night dining in a casual atmosphere. Cafe Albert is a cozy coffee house great for pastries and light fare.

But our favorite place for most meals at The Homestead is Sam Snead's Tavern, a converted bank where Virginia wines are stored in the antique walk-in vault. The casual atmosphere and menu make for a nice lunch or dinner. American favorites include New York Strip Steak, fresh Virginia Allegheny Mountain Rainbow Trout, and The Tavern's Hickory Smoked Barbecued Spareribs (a messy and tasty treat).

The Homestead offers many great special weekend rates and packages. However, if the budget doesn't allow, there are many small B&Bs and inns in the area. But we will beg, borrow, and barter to stay in The Homestead whenever possible and especially in the winter.

In the area:

All telephone numbers are within area code 703.

Buckhorn Inn, Churchville, 337-6900

Highland Inn, Monterey, 468-2143

Fort Lewis Lodge, Millboro, 925-2314

Warm Springs Inn, Warm Springs, 839-5351

The Inn at Gristmill Square, Warm Springs, 839-2231

The Homestead, 839-5500, 800-336-5771 or 800-542-5734 in Virginia

This was an adaptation from a chapter in Lynn Seldon's upcoming book, Country Roads of Virginia, to be published by Country Roads Press next spring. To order this book or his book, Outdoor Virginia, call 1-800-729-9179.