As appeared in Washingtonian...

ESCAPE TO VIRGINIA'S

EASTERN SHORE

If you want to see the way much of Maryland's Eastern Shore once was, just stay on US 13 until you hit the Virginia state line. Quite simply, the Old Dominion's portion of the fabled peninsula is much less developed than its northern neighbor. For some, that lack of commercialism is a welcome escape.

If you can't already tell, I'm biased towards Virginia's Eastern Shore. As a Virginia native, I'm lured to the Eastern Shore like an alley cat to a kettle of cod. Of course, I love visiting quaint Maryland towns like St. Michaels and Oxford, but for true escape it's hard to beat the Virginia versions of these towns and experiences. Except for Chincoteague, Virginia's Eastern Shore is vastly undiscovered.

Thanks to this lack of major tourism thusfar, Virginia's Eastern Shore is a bit more difficult to discover. Unlike Maryland, there are really no paths worn bare by tourists. That's why I love Eastern Shore Escapes. By bike and kayak, they took me down roads and rivers I never would have found on my own.

Created in 1996 by the Virginia Eastern Shore Corporation, in partnership with The Nature Conservancy, Eastern Shore Escapes offers weekend getaways consisting of biking, kayaking, birding, and barrier island tours. Though they now offer tours from Maryland down to North Carolina, they concentrate on Virginia.

The company offers a great way for virgin or veteran Virginia Eastern Shore visitors to explore the region. For me and many others, they've exposed me to experiences, food, and accommodations that I will return to on my own. That makes their relatively low fees well worth the investment.

"We're going to show you a side of the Shore you've never seen," Scott Schreiber told my small group on my first trip last year. Scott is the friendly manager of ecotourism for the company and often guides the groups. From D.C.-area doctors to Reston techies, Scott definitely delivered on his promise to all of us.

One of the beauties of riding and paddling with Eastern Shore Escapes is the variety of tour options. They offer different trips from spring to fall, with a wide choice of destinations and accommodations.

Ideal for capital area residents, the trips generally revolve around a Friday-to-Sunday framework. For me, the best bet are the biking trips. By bike, you'll see more places and people of this unique region. Like me, you'll probably want to return for another different bike itinerary or you'll want to try a kayaking or 'combo' (biking and kayaking) weekend.

All of the biking weekends generally work the same way. Check-in is at a local bed-and-breakfast and the rest of Friday is on your own. One unique feature of Eastern Shore Escapes is that you can choose from a variety of B&Bs, with many options and prices on each trip. Your host can help with dinner and exploration plans. All tours and accommodations provide an opportunity to visit towns (Onancock, Cape Charles, and Wachapreague are a few favorites) that have all the charm of their Maryland counterparts, but without the tourists.

After breakfast, the group meets at a designated area and sets off on a day of guided biking. The Saturday ride is typically 35 miles and the group typically separates into smaller packs, but there is a support van just in case (the tours are designed for all levels of fitness). There's a stop about every five miles for very informal chats about area ecology, history, and culture. Riders may find these breaks include a visit to a clam aquaculture farm or a soft shell crab operation, as well as simple pleasures like a cooling swim.

Lunch is a highlight for many two-wheel travelers. Their gourmet meals might be in a one-room schoolhouse or in peaceful Kiptopeke State Park, but they're sure to be large and tasty. After the leisurely lunch, it's back on the bikes for more exploration (you can also choose to take the afternoon 'off' for independent exploration). Another gourmet meal awaits Saturday evening, but this time they choose a local restaurant that features local produce and seafood. Flounders in Onancock is typical, with fresh local seafood and lots of locals to meet.

After Sunday's breakfast (you won't lose weight on these trips), there's another half-day of guided cycling, with the weekend result typically covering the Eastern Shore from bayside to seaside. Other weekend results include: seeing lots of agriculture and seafood products (the Eastern Shore is a major supplier of both); spotting lots of wildlife (294 identified bird species, plus mammals ranging from wild ponies to dolphins); and learning about the unusual history of the region (it was a hideout for Blackbeard and served as the state capitol during Bacon's 1676 rebellion).

But the people you meet will be the best result of all. I won't say that Virginia's Eastern Shore population is nicer than their neighbors to the north, but I will say that Eastern Shore Escapes will introduce you to some of the friendliest and most interesting people you'll come across anywhere you travel. It's also very unlikely you would have met them on your own. You don't just come across folks like Nelson Farlow, owner of the Best Little Crab House in Quinby.

The kayaking trips work under a similar weekend format. You get to choose from lots of B&Bs, you enjoy guided paddling all day Saturday and on Sunday morning, and you have lots of gourmet meals in between. Kayakers take breaks on river banks, barrier islands, or at crab shacks. All fitness levels are welcome on these tours as well.

The 'combo' tours feature biking and kayaking on Saturday (the order depends on weather and tides), with one of the two for Sunday morning (again, depending on conditions). If you can't decide which transportation method you'd like, this is an ideal choice. For something different, these trips are also offered down in Virginia Beach, where, surprisingly, the Back Bay National Wildlife Refuge and False Cape State Park offer some incredible biking and paddling opportunities. If you think Virginia Beach is just a busy beach getaway, you have to see this pristine area just outside the city proper.

There are a wide variety of biking weekends from which to choose, as well as kayaking, combination, and specialty tours. Weekend trips start at just $249 per person (double occupancy). Contact Eastern Shore Escapes at P.O. Box 395, Belle Haven, VA 23306, (888) VA SHORE; email: escapes@vashore.com; website: www.vashore.com.