The Compass....

THE NORTH CAROLINA COAST:

THE GRAVEYARD OF THE ATLANTIC

When lovers of the sea think of diving in the Western Hemisphere, they think anything north of Florida will likely involve cold water, low visibility, and little to see. That's because many people haven't been to North Carolina.

North Carolina's coast is a diver's dream. For non-diving lovers of the sea, the North Carolina coast offers the perfect place to learn and experience all that the sea has to offer.

Mother Nature has cooperated to provide near-perfect conditions for a sea experience unlike anything else in the world. The warm Gulf Stream flows closer to the North Carolina coast than anywhere else in the east, except for the tip of Florida. The result is abnormally warm and clear water. Add to this mix more than 2,000 natural wrecks and just thank Mother Nature and the diving gods and goddesses.

BACKGROUND

The Gulf Stream provides Caribbean-like diving, with tropical conditions and marine life, but the wrecks are what make North Carolina's seascape so interesting. Abnormally shallow shoals along the coast have contributed to the large number of wrecks along the Atlantic's bottom, along with wars, weather, and wary seamanship.

"Warm and tropical waters sown with hundreds of natural shipwrecks make this part of underwater America one of the finest for recreational diving," says Rod Farb in his excellent book, Guide to Shipwreck Diving: North Carolina (Pisces Books, Gulf Publishing, P.O. Box 2608, Houston, TX 77252-2608, 713/529-4301 or 800/231-6275).

The dive season along the coast of North Carolina usually lasts from May to October or November. Visibility generally averages between 40 feet to over 100 feet. The average temperature is usually in the upper-70s and often reaches into the 80s. The wrecks range in depth from about 25 feet to more than 170 feet, but most of the popular dives are between 80 feet and 125 feet.

The variety of wrecks is what keeps bringing back divers. Wrecks date from the Spanish fleets of the 1500s through current times. Civil War ships, merchant marine boats from two centuries, wrecks from both world wars, commercial shipping casualties, fishing vessels, and much more await adventurous divers. The area truly deserves the nickname, "Graveyard of the Atlantic."

SOME SPECIAL DIVES

With dozens of dives from which to choose, there are definitely some favorites among local divers.

One of the closer, shallower wrecks provides a perfect introduction to North Carolina diving. Two popular introductory choices are the W.E. Hutton and the Suloide. The W.E. Hutton was a freighter sunk by a German U-boat in 1942 in 70 feet of water just 14 miles south of Morehead City. The Suloide struck the wreck of the W.E. Hutton in 1943 and sank about a mile away at 65 feet. Both wrecks offer lots of colorful marine life.

The deeper shipwrecks offshore remain the main reason for heading to North Carolina. Some popular picks include U-352, HMS Bedfordshire, the U.S.S. Schurz, and the Papoose.

The U-352 is perhaps the most famous dive site north of the Florida Keys. This German submarine was sunk by the U.S. Coast Guard cutter, Icarus, in 1942. It now lies at 115 feet only 26 miles south of Morehead City and offers much to see in a small space. Though coral life is limited, the submarine remains are of continuing interest. It is the only U-boat off the coast of the U.S. generally available to sport divers.

Just two days after the U-352 was sunk by the Icarus, the Bedfordshire (an armed trawler) was sunk with a single torpedo by another German U-boat. The wreck is in several interesting sections, with lots of tropical marine life and several unexploded depth charges to be avoided.

The Schurz was originally a German warship before being interred by the U.S. in 1917. It was accidentally rammed by a tanker in 1918 and lies in 110 feet of water 28 miles south of Morehead City. The wreck is strung along the sand, with lots of artifacts and much marine life.

The tanker Papoose was torpedoed by a German U-boat in 1942 and lies upside down at 130 feet. Entry into the hull is possible through several wide openings and marine life throughout is fascinating. Just a quarter-mile away, the Ella Pierce Thurlow sits in 125 feet of water and provides an interesting view of a four-masted schooner sunk by a storm.

There are many other diving opportunities all along the coast. In the colder waters of the north, the most popular destination off Nag's Head is the U-85. Between Cape Hatteras and Cape Lookout, check out the Proteus and the U.S.S. Tarpon. In the Cape Fear area, the dives of choice include the Normannia, the City of Houston, and the Cassimir.

FOR NON-DIVERS

For those not yet certified to dive, but still wanting to explore the "Graveyard of the Atlantic," there are many snorkeling opportunities. But the best way to experience the wrecks is with scuba gear. Learning to dive is easy and well worth the time and effort. The dive shops along the coast, as well as most dive shops throughout the world, offer dive certification classes.

The basics of scuba diving are surprisingly simple. Divers use specialized modern equipment that adapts to the aquatic environment. Scuba equipment provides a portable air supply that allows divers to spend an extended time underwater (from a few minutes to several hours, depending on factors like depth and breathing efficiency).

The tank is a high-pressure cylinder that stores plain old compressed air--not oxygen--that is released with a valve. The passes through a regulator to deliver a controlled amount of air when you inhale. A gauge lets you monitor the air supply.

The tank and regulator are typically held in place by a buoyancy control device (BCD), an expandable bladder that can be inflated or deflated to control a diver's buoyancy. The mask is the window to the underwater world, creating an air space which allows divers to see. A snorkel is attached to the mask and allows divers to breathe at the surface without having to lift their heads. Fins allows them to move through the water with far less effort and far great efficiency. Weight belts are also worn to allow divers to sink.

Scuba divers must earn a "C-card," the certification card for open water divers. The two largest certifying organizations are the Professional Association of Diving Instructors (PADI) and the National Association of Underwater Instructors (NAUI). The YMCA also sponsors well-respected certification classes.

The certification class is interesting and easy for almost everyone in good physical shape and comfortable with the water. The class is generally divided into three parts: classroom (using a book and visual aids); pool (confined water) practice; and open water instruction. The entire certification process can be completed over several weeks or packed into a few days. With C-card in hand, divers can see an enchanting part of the sea few others have seen.

LOGISTICS

The Morehead City area serves as the heart and logistical soul of North Carolina diving. This area provides ideal access to many of the best dive sites. "This area is the perfect base to explore 'The Graveyard of the Atlantic,'" says Debby Boyce owner of Discovery Diving in Beaufort, a quaint waterfront community.

The Olympus Dive Center and Discovery Diving are the companies to contact for great diving, lodging recommendations or packages, dining ideas, and the many local sightseeing options for surface intervals. Contact the Olympus Dive Center at 713 Shepard St., Morehead City, NC 28557, 919/726-9432 or 919/726-2594. Contact Discovery Diving at 414 Orange Street, Beaufort, NC 28516, 919/728-2265. For more information about the area, contact the Carteret County Tourism Development Bureau at P.O. Box 1406, Morehead City, NC 28557, 919/726-8148 or 800/786-6962).

North Carolina's Crystal Coast has lots of accommodations possibilities. Some of the best include: Sheraton Atlantic Beach Resort (800/624-8875); Langdon House B&B (919/728-5499); the Best Western Buccaneer Motor Inn (800/682-4932 or 919/726-3115); or one of many unique villa or condominium possibilities with Ocean Resorts (800/682-3702 or 919/247-3600), which are great for groups of divers or families.

There's great seafood in the area, with local restaurant recommendations including: the legendary Sanitary Fish Market & Restaurant (919/247-3111); Turtle Reef Restaurant & Marina (919/726-1300); and Clawson's 1905 Restaurant (919/728-2133).

For off-days from diving, there's lots to see and do. One of the most interesting outings for divers is the North Carolina Aquarium (919/247-4003), located at Pine Knoll Shores. This public aquarium serves as a focus for public information, education, research, and advisory services. The facility features many exhibits, a touch tank, and an underwater shipwreck tank that is a favorite of young and older salts.

Another popular stop is the North Carolina Maritime Museum (919/728-7317), located on Front Street in Beaufort. This museum interprets North Carolina's many-faceted historical alliances with the sea. Exhibits commemorate both maritime history and the coast natural history, as well as an impressive collection of ship models. The rest of historic Beaufort is great for walking and whiling away some surface time.

With so much to see above and below sea level, the North Carolina coast should be part of every sea lover's dreams. "The Graveyard of the Atlantic" is certainly a heavenly haven for divers.