southern diver/skin diver

THE FLORIDA KEYS:

A 2,500-SQUARE-MILE

AQUARIUM

The Florida Keys provide an aquarium unmatched anywhere in the world. For scuba divers and snorkelers, the abundant marine life of the Florida Keys means more than 2,500 square miles of fish, invertebrates, and corals just waiting to be discovered. It's like going to the world's largest and most interesting aquarium, where the underwater 'displays' are constantly changing.

AND THE SURVEY SAYS...

Visitors need look no further than the recent report, "Status of Reef Fishes in the Florida Keys National Marine Sanctuary" to see the abundance of marine life found in the Florida Keys. Since 1993, the Reef Environmental Education Foundation (REEF), with the assistance of The Nature Conservancy (TNC), has been conducting fish surveys throughout the Florida Keys and the Caribbean using the Roving Diver Technique. The recent comprehensive survey found that marine life in the Florida Keys is alive and well (and getting better).

A large number of volunteer divers trained in reef fish identification provided large sample sizes and greater geographical and seasonal coverage than would ever have been practical using professional scientists and other methods. The REEF/TNC Fish Survey Project was intended to supplement, and not replace, the more rigorous methods used by scientists.

The report was based on three years of baseline survey data collected by REEF/TNC volunteers. Although this first report focused primarily on fish distribution spatial trends, future reports will provide insight about temporal trends as well.

Fish surveys were conducted once a year throughout the Florida Keys National Marine Sanctuary during the summer months. More than 400 species of fish have been scientifically documented in the Florida Keys and surveyors spotted more than 200 during their observations. As Keys diving veterans could guess, the five most abundant fish families were parrotfish, angelfish, grouper, snapper, and grunt, with colorful parrotfish the best represented.

One interesting finding of the survey concerned the number of black grouper found in different parts of the Keys. Black grouper were seen more frequently and in greater numbers where spearfishing is not allowed. Furthermore, the findings of the report showed that areas where spearfishing and tropical fish collection are prohibited had the greatest number of fish species in general. The number of fish species (and other marine life) can also definitely be attributed to reef development (or lack thereof) in the area.

Laddie Akins, executive director of REEF, says, "With the approval of the management plan of the Florida Keys National Marine Sanctuary last summer and the implementation of Sanctuary Preservation Areas (SPAs) within it, baseline information compiled in this report, combined with ongoing fish surveys using the Roving Diver Technique as part of the REEF/TNC Fish Survey Project, will provide invaluable information regarding the effectiveness of management strategies." Hopefully, that means even more and better marine life in the Keys for decades to come.

Laddie says positive results from the SPAs can already be seen. In REEF's monitoring work for the Sanctuary, they've seen an abundance of lobsters in certain SPAs. On the Western Sambos reserve near Key West REEF, divers documented more than 30 lobsters on just one dive. In the Newfound Harbor SPA, they counted 28 more lobsters. He says, "This would be unheard of during the lobster season before the 'no-take' zones. It is only logical that similar changes will take place with certain fish."

As an example, anything that normally eats lobster will certainly take advantage of the increase in population. Fish that are traditionally taken, like grouper, should also find havens in these zones. As small areas like these SPAs are restored to their pre-harvest relationships, Florida Keys divers and snorkelers will surely see even bigger and more varied fish over time.

The report summary states, "The overall finding of this report is that the Roving Diver Technique used for the REEF/TNC Fish Survey Project is a very cost-effective way to detect changes in fish populations in a variety of habitats over a large area." That means the more volunteers REEF and TNC can get, the more comprehensive the survey. There couldn't be a better way to visit an aquarium!

A GIANT AQUARIUM

The Florida Keys are visited by more than 800,000 divers and snorkelers annually, making them the most-visited dive destination in the world. They come to see the wide variety of marine life in a unique array of settings. With the Florida Keys, one visit to one area doesn't even come close to exposing you to everything these islands have to offer above and below the surface. To really see and dive the Keys, you need multiple visits to each of these areas: Key Largo, Islamorada, Marathon, Big Pine Key/Looe Key, and Key West.

The marine life of the Keys is unsurpassed in variety and volume. Another recent REEF survey found that, when rated by volume and diversity of marine life, 16 of the top 20 dive sites were in the Florida Keys (two are in Bonaire and the other two are in the British Virgin Islands).

The Gulf Stream provides an abundance of nutrients and life that make the Keys unlike any other chain of islands in the Caribbean. The Keys are bathed by Caribbean waters, but are also far enough north to welcome more temperate water visitors. In addition, these are islands that are connected to a mainland and, thus, some marine life is insular while other is more continental. Miles of shallow habitat, mangrove shoreline, and water from the Florida Bay and the Everglades add to the unique mix.

Certain species of fish are also found in the Florida Keys that aren't found in the Caribbean. One example is the purple reef fish, which is a members of the chromis/damsel family and isn't found in the Caribbean, but is often seen in the Keys. The stunning blue hamlet is another example. In addition, there are more species of grunt, snapper, and parrotfish found in the Keys than anywhere else in the Caribbean and many other dive destinations in the world.

Divers and snorkelers should remember that one visit to one part of the Keys doesn't mean they've seen everything the Keys have to offer underwater. Each part of the Florida Keys offers unique dive experiences. For instance, leopard goby is found only around Key West and the Tortugas. White margate is normally reported only in the Upper Keys, yellowcheek wrasse are found primarily in the Marquesas, and highhats are the dominant drum in the Middle Keys, while spotted drum are seen much more frequently in the Upper Keys. In addition to unique marine life and underwater opportunities, including finding giant jewfish, doing a REEF survey dive, or shark diving, each of the areas in the Keys offers unique topside experiences as well.

The Florida Keys have turned into the world's most popular dive destination because of their ideal location, conditions, and diver dedication. Stretching off the southern edge of Florida from Biscayne Bay to the Dry Tortugas, this 180-mile span of islands offers semi-tropical conditions year-round, the clear and warm waters of the Gulf Stream, and the most dive shops and resorts (more than 70 and counting) you'll find anywhere on earth.

These factors are enhanced by the Keys reef system, which is generally regarded as the third largest in the world and the only living coral reef in the continental U.S. When you add the strong artificial reef program and active reef conservation programs, you have a perfect combination for divers.

Florida Keys diving is alive and well thanks to healthy reefs and wrecks, as well as some of the most abundant fish life you'll find anywhere in the world. That's due to conservation efforts that have lasted more than a generation.

Divers can visit the Keys anytime of year. The "summer" months (generally June to October) mean air temperatures in the mid- to upper-80s, water temperatures in the low-80s, and typically calm and clear conditions out on the reefs. The "winter" months (generally November to May) bring air temperatures in the mid-70s, water temperatures in the low-70s, and sometimes rougher conditions above and below the surface.

During surface intervals, you'll find the Florida Keys are one of the most traveler-friendly places anywhere. A wide range of accommodations options, creative and casual dining possibilities, other water-oriented activities, and many sightseeing opportunities enhance the island atmosphere when you're not underwater.

DIVING THE KEYS AQUARIUM

In photojournalist Stephen Frink's fascinating illustrated book, Underwater Guide to the Florida Keys, he says, "For those who know where to look, there are historical and modern shipwrecks, drift dives, shallow coral reefs, dropoffs, and an amazing abundance of tropical marine life." As a preview to this marine life, Frink provides 40 colorful close-up photos at the end of the book featuring fish found in the Florida Keys, including several angelfish, butterflyfish, grouper, morays, balloonfish, trunkfish, tarpon, barracuda, stingrays, bull sharks, and many others.

Key Largo in the north is a popular Florida Keys diving base and for good reason. Numerous dive operators and resorts cater to the large number of divers visiting the various sites nearby.

The northernmost dive generally frequented by boat is Carysfort Reef, which is marked by historic Carysfort Lighthouse. The extensive coral growth along the coral heads and small wall at this reef make it a well-known spot, but the distance from most dive shops and boats keeps it relatively quiet. Just to the south, The Elbow features an elbow-shaped reef structure that has snagged many ships over the years, including three major wrecks that can be seen on dives here. Fish life here is especially heavy, so photographers love it.

The huge Christ of the Deep Statue is a 'must' dive for any visiting diver. This nine-foot-tall statue is a replica of one off Genoa, Italy, and was given to the area by the Cressi family (of Cressi-sub dive gear fame). Every diver should see the statue at least once. Just to the south, Grecian Rocks is a popular beginner dive and snorkeling site, with lots of well-lit and large coral heads close to the surface.

The Benwood, a World War II freighter that sunk after being accidentally rammed, provides a perfect introduction to wreck diving the Keys. With an awe-inspiring amount of fish swimming throughout the pieces that stretch for more than 300 feet, the Benwood also features lots of colorful and mature coral growth on its massive steel frame. Near the Benwood and Grecian Rocks, the massive 510-foot Spiegel Grove will soon become the newest wreck in the Keys and the largest artificial reef for divers in the world.

A few miles south, French Reef features more swim-through caves, full-fledged small caves, and overhangs than any other site in the Keys. Hourglass Cave, Christmas Tree Cave, and White Sand Bottom Cave are among the many highlights.

Quite simply, Molasses Reef is one of the most popular dive sites in the Keys (and in the world). It's for good reason, as Molasses Reef combines everything that has made the Keys famous into one dive site. Abundant marine life, stunning coral growth (in color and stature), and wreck remains await divers. Upper Keys-based divers can visit Molasses Reef frequently without ever being bored.

Next, the U.S. Coast Guard cutters Duane and Bibb introduce Florida Keys artificial reef wreck diving. Sunk in 1987, both ships have had time to develop into attractive artificial reefs. The Duane sits upright and allows full outside exploration, with lots of coral and fish for company. Just four-tenths of a mile to the northeast, the Bibb sits on its side and provides a very different Coast Guard cutter view. Because both wrecks are close to the Gulf Stream, large pelagic sightings are possible.

Islamorada-area dive operators provide access to many of the same Key Largo sites, as do Key Largo operators to traditional Islamorada destinations. Two miles southwest of Molasses Reef, Pickles Reef provides more typical Keys reef diving. Large purple sea fans are prevalent, as are lots of queen conchs and pillar coral. Conch Reef is next heading south and is one of the more popular reefs in the Keys, with the 60- to 90-foot Conch Wall, huge gorgonians, sponges, and more pillar coral. Similarly, sprawling Davis Reef is active with fish and large friendly green moray eels.

Near these two reefs, the remains of the three 1733 Spanish wrecks, the El Infante, the San Pedro, and the Alligator, are also popular. The large piles of ballast boulders and some timber planking are pretty much all that remain, but all three wrecks have had centuries to fill with coral and fish. This area off Islamorada is often referred to as the San Pedro Underwater Archaeological Preserve.

Back in 1985, the Eagle was the first ship deliberately sunk off the Upper Keys as an artificial reef site. This 287-foot freighter is now alive with fish and coral growth, making it one of the best Upper Keys wreck dives.

The Marathon area provides a similar mixture of reef and wreck diving, starting with the R/V Thunderbolt. Yet another popular artificial reef wreck, the 188-foot Thunderbolt was sunk in 1986. This intact research vessel provides great pictures around the spool used for laying cable and in the bridge area, which is easily entered. Keys dive shops usually dive one of many Marathon Middle Reefs after this wreck dive.

Next, Sombrero Reef is another one of the more popular Keys reef dives. Highlights of these coral fingers include the eight-foot-high coral arch, giant star corals, and, as always, abundant fish activity. Nearby, Delta Shoal and Delta Shoals Barge provide similar experiences.

Big Pine Key and famed Looe Key Reef is something that shouldn't be missed on any mid-Keys dive trip. The Looe Key National Marine Sanctuary is protected from spearfishing and shell collecting and has thus become one of the most active reefs in the Keys, with a wide array of fish and a representative mix of coral found throughout the area. On rough days, many boats head north into Florida Bay for a different dive on Content Keys, where a shallow dive and unique bayside corals and fish await, as do lots of lobsters.

Lower Keys diving is generally centered around Key West, with many reefs and wrecks just a short boat ride out of town. Just offshore, an area called South Beach Patches provides some interesting shallow shore diving (just watch the boat traffic). Working clockwise around Key West, the first dive is small Joe's Tug, which was found on the outer reef by Joe Weatherby and features a ton of cooperative photogenic fish for topics.

Next, to the west, Eastern Dry Rocks and Rock Key provide a pair of interesting dives, with a typical Keys reef structure and marine life, but with the added bonus of lots of wreck remains. Sand Key Lighthouse marks Sand Key, one of the most popular Lower Keys dives. The coral fingers feature lots of elkhorn and staghorn coral, as well as remains of the original brick lighthouse, which blew down in 1846. Three miles to the west of Sand Key, Western Dry Rocks has more deeply encrusted coral fingers, lots of large grouper, and some nice caves around an area called The K Marker.

Continuing clockwise, the Gulf side provides several interesting dive sites for times of bad weather. Both Cottrell Reef and The Lakes offer shallow coral ledges alive with scattered gorgonians, sponges, and occasional wrecks.

To the west and out into the Atlantic, the Marquesas Keys provide a number of interesting dives for those adventurous who enjoy boat trips and secluded diving. These keys are the atolls in the Atlantic Ocean and have interesting coral heads and small wrecks situated just offshore, as well as nice sandy beaches onshore. Six miles to the south, the Marquesas Rock and Cosgrove Shoal await diehards with more phenomenal Keys reef diving. Next stop, Havana.

For further general information, write to the Florida Keys & Key West Visitors Bureau at P.O. Box 1147, Key West, FL 33041, U.S.A. In the U.S. and Canada, call (800) FLA KEYS. From other countries, call (305) 296-1552. Online service users can obtain a wide variety of Keys information on their website (http://www.fla-keys.com).

For further information about the Florida Keys National Marine Sanctuary, contact them at 216 Ann Street, Key West, FL 33040, (305) 292-0311. For further information about the Reef Environmental Education Foundation (REEF), contact them at P.O. Box 246, Key Largo, FL 33037, (305) 451-0312 (website http://www.reef.org).