southern diver/skin diver

MIAMI'S BEACH'S BEST WRECKS:

A NEON-BRIGHT TRIO

Miami Beach's historic Art Deco district is neon-hot, thanks to trendy Ocean Drive, revitalized Lincoln Road, unique accommodations options, and some of the most creative restaurants in the U.S. But scuba diving off Miami Beach is just as hot, thanks to one of the best artificial reef programs in the world.

Miami Beach has been dubbed "The Wreckreational Capital of the Americas" and rightly so, as divers from North and South America are converging on an area that is second only to Truk Lagoon in sheer numbers of wrecks.

In many ways, Miami was a natural to become an unnatural artificial reef mecca. Shipwrecks and other manmade items may not seem natural 'reefs' at first, but it doesn't take them long to fit in quite well. Miami's weather and diving conditions make them natural fits for divers.

In 1981, when Dade County initiated the Artificial Reef Program, there was just one dive boat operating in the Greater Miami area. Today, the program is recognized as one of the most successful artificial reef programs in the nation. The number of dive boats has increased to more than a dozen, providing everything from shallow water snorkeling on natural reefs to diving on boats, tanks, towers, and much more.

The 'founding father' of Miami diving is definitely Ben Mostkoff. As former coordinator of the active program, he was responsible for obtaining and coordinating the sinking of most of the wrecks. Without Ben, Miami probably wouldn't be the wreckreational dive mecca it has become.

There are ten designated offshore artificial reef sites, with five lying between the Dade/Broward county line and Key Biscayne and another five situated between Key Biscayne and Monroe County. Most of the best diving is in less than 130 feet of water and less than two miles east of Sunny Isles, Miami Beach, and the Key Biscayne shoreline.

The sites contain more than 30 ships, two Tenneco oil platforms, a pair of U.S. Army tanks, more than 650 concrete and limestone structures, and many other interesting artificial reefs. It's enough to keep every level of diver interested for many Miami visits.

Along with the local dive shops and operators, the best general guide for Miami area diving is Joel Auerbach's excellent Dive Miami (available through dive shops). Last updated after Hurricane Andrew in 1992, Joel provides a good summary of 45 dive sites in Dade County, including a wide range of history, historic and underwater photography, Loran C information, and much more. He says, "Over the years, these wrecks have become a haven for marine life." Many of the wrecks have also become a haven for divers.

A NEON-HOT TRIO OF WRECKS

The Orion provides a perfect introduction to the vice of Miami artificial reef diving. Sunk in 1981 off Key Biscayne in the south, it was the first ship sunk by the Dade County Environmental Resources Management Artificial Reef Program and is still one of the best and most popular dives.

The 120-foot ship was originally named the Trinidad and guided ships through the Panama Canal for almost 50 years before being sunk off Key Biscayne. As with most Miami wrecks, the ship has been stripped for safe diving and can be entered (a light helps, even during daytime diving). Located in 95 feet of water and with a profile of 30 feet, it's a mature wreck with lots of colorful marine life and coral growth. The colors challenge those found on neon-laden Ocean Drive.

The 1995 mid-Miami Beach sinking of the 180-foot freighter Tortuga (renamed Fair Game) brought the artificial reef program even more publicity. Sunk as part of the Cindy Crawford/Billy Baldwin movie by the same name, the ship was part of a closing sequence that transformed it into an underwater attraction.

The huge ship is easily penetrated and has already attracted lots of barracuda and other marine inhabitants. It sits upright in about 110 feet of water, but it's almost 40 feet to the top of the wheelhouse. The wreck offers experienced and novice wreck divers and opportunity to penetrate a ship with minimal risk, thanks to a cavernous interior and well placed and highly visible cut-out sections.

Finally, the Andro completes this triple play of Miami Beach wrecks. Located just off Haulover Cut in north Miami Beach and easily accessible for most local dive boats, the 165-foot Andro was originally built as a private yacht in 1910. It was used as a coastal submarine chaser during World War II and as an inter-island freighter after that.

The ship was sunk as part of the artificial reef program in 1985, so it's had a lot of time to mature into a convenient favorite for local and visiting divers. She sits in about 105 feet of water, with a relief of 35 feet. The colorful coral thickly encrusting the ship and lots of permanent and passing fish make this a must-see in Miami Beach.

OTHER OPTIONS

There are many more reasons that Miami Beach has become a wreck diving hub. Some of the possibilities include: the Spirit of Miami (a Boeing 727 jet aircraft); the Doc DeMilly (a 287-foot steel freighter); the Wreck Trek (an underwater trail connecting several ships and an old radio antenna); the Tenneco Oil Rigs (former Gulf of Mexico oil platforms); the Tarpoon (a 175-foot grain carrier); two U.S. Army Tanks (complete with their huge gun turrets); and the Rio Miami (sunk by Hugh Downs, an avid diver, during a 20/20 television segment on artificial reefs in 1989). The 105-foot tug is in just 80 feet of water.

In addition, Artificial Reef Program personnel were responsible for placing more than 650 concrete and limestone structures in barren habitats offshore in 1996, with another 400 coming in 1997. The specifically designed structures used in Miami are 6 feet wide, 9 feet long, and weigh about 17,000 pounds. They were designed by Mostkoff to be a cost-effective and functional replica of a small patch reef, with emphasis given to creating a habitat catering to the needs of post-larveal recruits and juvenile fish.

All of these varied sites may make you think you won't have much time to explore the area. But most of the sites are conveniently close, as are the operators and their boats. You also probably need to stay in the area longer than first planned. Neon-hot Miami Beach's topside is (almost) as fun as its brightening underwater wreck scene.

For more specific information about diving and dive packages, call (888) SCUBA MB. They can also help with other hotel and travel recommendations. For more information the Miami area in general, contact the Greater Miami Convention & Visitors Bureau at 701 Brickell Avenue, Suite 2700, Miami, FL 33131, (800) 283-2707. For more information about Miami Beach specifically, contact the Miami Beach Chamber of Commerce at 1920 Meridian Avenue, Miami Beach, FL 33139, (305) 672-1270.