southern diver/skin diver

KEY LARGO:

JUST LIKE BOGIE AND BACALL

In many ways, Key Largo is synonomous with Florida Keys diving. The proliferation of Overseas Highway dive shops, diver-oriented accommodations, and water-oriented topside options all attest to Key Largo's position in the Keys diving community.

The longest island of the Keys chain, Key Largo is the site where Humphrey Bogart and Lauren Bacall battled both Edward G. Robinson and a hurricane in the movie of the same name. Even if a hurricane doesn't hit, Bogie's Key Largo connection can be experienced aboard the African Queen, the actual boat that Bogart skippered in the movie of the same name. But the dive boats (and protected reefs) attract many more visitors.

Keys underwater conservation got underway in Key Largo, when, in 1960, widespread public support laid the foundation for John Pennekamp Coral Reef State Park off Key Largo. Named for a late Miami newspaper editor who championed local environmental preservation, the state park (now a part of the Florida Keys National Marine Sanctuary) was a forerunner of successful conservation efforts. Diligent dive operators help enforce the rules and intent of the protected areas, as do lots of mooring buoys.

The dive sites frequented from Key Largo (as well as Tavernier and Plantation Key, just to the south) would keep visiting divers busy for weeks. "With our reefs, wrecks, and marine life, both new and veteran Florida Keys divers will never be bored," says Spencer Slate, owner and active operator of Capt. Slate's Atlantis Dive Center (famed for his regular Friday fish feedings).

Thanks to abundant marine life, stunning coral growth, and wreck remains Molasses Reef is still one of the most popular dive sites in the Keys (and in the world). Next, the huge Christ of the Deep Statue (a nine-foot-tall statue given to the area by the Cressi family of Cressi-sub dive gear fame) should be seen at least once by any visiting diver.

In the northern section of the Keys, Carysfort Reef (marked by historic Carysfort Lighthouse) features extensive coral growth along the coral heads and a small wall that make this reef make a well-known spot. The Elbow snagged many ships over the years, including three major wrecks that can be seen on dives here.

Grecian Rocks is a popular beginner dive and snorkeling site, with lots of well-lit and large coral heads close to the surface. The Benwood, a World War II freighter that sunk after being accidentally rammed, provides a perfect introduction to wreck diving in the Keys. Near the Benwood and Grecian Rocks, the massive 510-foot Spiegel Grove recently became the newest wreck in the Keys and the largest artificial reef for divers in the world.

Just to the south, French Reef features numerous swim-through caves, full-fledged small caves, and more overhangs than any other site in the Keys. Finally, the U.S. Coast Guard cutters Duane and Bibb provide a good introduction to Florida Keys artificial reef wreck diving. Sunk in 1987, both ships have had time to develop into attractive artificial reefs.

"The reefs, wrecks, and conditions make Key Largo an ideal base a dive vacation, but it's also an ideal place to further your training," says Joe Clarke at Ocean Divers. From regular nitrox classes to many other advanced certifications, Key Largo provides a perfect place to pursue something special.

But topside time is also a major attraction for Key Largo divers. Along with Key West, Key Largo is one of the more developed Florida Keys destinations and, thus, features many sightseeing possibilities.

Along with the scuba diving out on the reefs of John Pennekamp State Park, the park also features excellent snorkeling trips, glass-bottomed boat tours, canoeing, boat rentals, hiking trails through the mangrove and tropical hardwood hammock, and a 30,000-gallon saltwater aquarium and other fish tanks in the excellent visitor center. It's well worth a topside stop.

Back on the Overseas Highway, many other attractions abound. Along with all of the well-known dive operators, Stephen Frink Photographic is a full-service facility for underwater photographers of all levels. Along with film processing, custom prints, rentals, and new and used equipment, Frink and his staff provide expert advice and instruction (classes available).

Other outdoors-oriented contacts in the Key Largo area include: sea kayak rentals and tours with Florida Bay Outfitters Kayak & Canoe Center; the underwater hotel and marine park of Jules' Undersea Lodge and Key Largo Undersea Park; the fascinating Florida Keys Wild Bird Rehabilitation Center; and wreck salvaging history at the Maritime Museum of the Florida Keys.

For further information, contact the Key Largo Chamber of Commerce at 105950 Overseas Highway, Key Largo, FL 33037, (305) 451-1414, or the Florida Keys & Key West Visitors Bureau at P.O. Box 1147, Key West, FL 33041, (800) FLA KEYS or (305) 296-1552.