Insight Guides....

COLONIAL WILLIAMSBURG, YORKTOWN, JAMESTOWN,

AND PLANTATION ROAD

When many Virginia visitors think of the Old Dominion, they think of Colonial Williamsburg. This historic haven has become synonomous with the heapfuls of history you get when exploring the state. But it's not history out of some boring textbook. Colonial Williamsburg and the rest of this area are history come to life.

Colonial Williamsburg: In a state blessed with so much history, Colonial Williamsburg can provide many days worth of historical exploration. More than 1 million annual visitors can't be wrong (though it never seems overly crowded, the summer season can mean lots of families).

Williamsburg was once the capital of a colony that extended all the way to present-day Minnesota. It was a seat of pre-Revolutionary War political rebellion. Today's restored Colonial Williamsburg portrays 18th-century Williamsburg as it appeared on the eve of the Revolution. It covers 173 acres of the 220-acre town laid out in 1699 by Royal Governor Francis Nicholson.

Bisected by mile-long Duke of Gloucester Street, the Historical Area is enhanced by a 3,000-acre greenbelt. There are 88 original structures, 50 major reconstructions, and 40 exhibition buildings containing 225 rooms, with furnishings from a 100,000-item collection. There are also 90 acres of gardens and greens, 15 exhibition sites, ten shops, 21 trade presentations, several museums, historic interpreters, many special and on-going programs, as well as nearby Carter's Grove, featuring a 1754 mansion, Wolstenholme Towne, a museum, a slave quarter, and a reception center. There's much to see.

Any visit should start with a stop at the informative Visitor Center. Opened in 1957, the Visitor Center provides parking, information, tickets, bus service, and reservations. Orientation begins with "Williamsburg--The Story of a Patriot," a 35-minute film.

Highlights within the Historic Area include the Capitol; the reconstructed Governor's Palace, completed in 1720, but destroyed in 1781; and the wide variety of shops where costumed milliners, wigmakers, postal workers, and many other are plying their trades.

Visitors should plan to spend at least one night and there are many excellent options right in the historic area, including: Williamsburg Inn, Williamsburg Lodge and Conference Center, the Woodlands, the Governor's Inn, and unique tavern accommodations. Along with other dining options, operating taverns include Chowning's, Christiana Campbell's Shields, and King's Arms. For shoppers, Merchants Square is an ideal place for that perfect gift or weekend memory. Sleeping, eating, and shopping are all part of an authentic Colonial Williamsburg experience.

There is a wide variety of ticket options for adults and children, as well as many package possibilities that include accommodations and dining.

Colonial Williamsburg also provides a perfect base for exploring Yorktown and Jamestown, the other two points of the renowned "Historic Triangle." Be prepared, however, to spend more than just a day or two exploring the historic riches of the area.

Yorktown: Part of the Colonial National Historical Park, Yorktown was the site of the last major battle of the Revolutionary War and the surrender of Lord Cornwallis to General George Washington in 1781. A visitor center includes a film, museum, gift shop, rooftop overlook, and the start of a Battlefield Tour. The Yorktown Victory Center tells the story of the American Revolution through a documentary film, thematic exhibits, and outdoor living history.

Jamestown: Also part of the Colonial National Historical Park, Jamestown was the original site of the first permanent English settlement in the New World. This National Historic Site includes a Visitor Center with a film, museum, gift shop, reconstructed Glasshouse of 1608, and ruins of the 1640s church tower, as well as the original town. At Jamestown Settlement, the settlers' story is told through a docudrama film, expansive indoor gallery exhibits, full-size recreations of ships, and outdoor settings where costumed interpreters portray life in Virginia at the beginning of the 17th century.

Busch Gardens and Water Country USA: For relatively modern adventures, the Williamsburg area also features two popular theme parks. Busch Gardens is one of the country's largest and most beautiful theme parks, offering visitors a wide array of thrill rides, entertainment, and nine recreated 17th century European-themed hamlets. Water Country USA features more than 50 water rides in a 50s- and 60s-themed park.

Outlet Shopping: The Williamsburg area also holds the distinction of being a modern "outlet" shopping mecca. The western outskirts of town offer dozens of stores and malls offering factory outlet shopping.

Plantation Road (Route 5): In a drive of less than sixty miles (XX kilometers), the road between Williamsburg and Richmond winds through more than three hundred years of Virginia (and U.S.) history on the homefront. The drive is like a trip to visit some wealthy friends at their large country estate.

Williamsburg and Richmond are connected by much more than a beautiful country road. Williamsburg was the original state capital, before the Old Dominion's headquarters was moved to Richmond. Now, nearby I-64 makes the trip a blur at 65 miles (XX kilometers)-per-hour. But Route 5 allows you to linger in the present and take glimpses into the past.

Once you leave the outskirts of Williamsburg on Route 5 (and the encroaching development), the history lessons begin quickly. Most drivers are drawn to the large number of Virginia historic markers. Cars are constantly pulling over for roadside history lessons, culled from the distinctive signs all along Virginia's historic roads. Drivers will also notice the attractive Virginia Byway signs (including a cardinal, the state bird) denoting the historic and scenic importance of this road.

The first plantation after leaving Williamsburg is Sherwood Forest Plantation and it's an interesting one (though not the best, if you're only visiting one or two). Sherwood Forest was the home of President John Tyler and is considered the longest frame house in America, at 300 feet (XX meters). It has been a working plantation for more than 240 years and is still occupied by members of the Tyler family. Check out the family's Pet Grave Yard nearby.

Even if plantation interiors bore you, at least take the road up to Evelynton to enjoy the exterior, including a great gift shop and greenhouse. Originally part of William Byrd's Westover Plantation (he named it for his daughter Evelyn), it has been in the Ruffin family since 1847.

If you do decide to tour the grounds and house, you'll learn some fascinating things about the history of the plantation and the Ruffin family. The family's patriarch, Edmund Ruffin, is famed for firing the first shot of the Civil War at Fort Sumter. He earned the title, "Father of American Agronomy," by virtually saving 19th-century Virginia from a depressed agricultural economy.

Back on Route 5 for just a few minutes, look for the turn to Westover Church on the left. The original church was built nearby in 1613 and this site and "new" building were adopted in 1730. If you're enjoying Route 5 on a Sunday, try to time a visit for 11:00am services at this true country church.

Just down the road on the left you get two plantations for the price of one turn down a country road. Berkeley Plantation is one of the most popular stops on Route 5, but less-visited Westover's nearby grounds feature a great stroll through history along the James.

The half-mile dirt road to Berkeley was designed for carriages and built in 1725. A sign asks drivers to drive "leisurely."

This historic mansion was built in 1726 (the initials of Benjamin Harrison IV and his wife Anne are on a datestone over a side door) and has since played host to George Washington, the succeeding nine U.S. presidents, and thousands of tourists.

The Colonial-clad tour guides will point out many unique features. Some great tidbits you'll learn during the tour include: "Taps" was composed at Berkeley in 1862 while Civil War Union forces were encamped at the plantation; William Henry Harrison, Governor Benjamin Harrison's third son, was born at Berkeley and went on to become the famous Indian fighter "Tippecanoe," the ninth president of the U.S., and grandfather of the 23rd president of the U.S.

If you're visiting in early-November, be sure to call in advance about the Virginia First Thanksgiving Festival, an annual celebration on the first Sunday in November. In 1619, Captain John Woodlief came safely ashore here (two years before the colonists arrived in Massachusetts) and they have since celebrated the event yearly, as directed in the group's original instructions:

"Wee ordained that the day of our ships arrivall at the place assigned for plantacon in the land of Virginia shall be yearly and perpetually keept holy as a day of thanksgiving to Almight God."

This popular event includes historical reenactments, crafts, Indian dancers and exhibits, music, and some great Virginia food. If you can't make it for the festival, try a meal in Berkeley's Coach House Tavern, where the first ten U.S. presidents dined.

By taking the other fork in the road, plantation lovers in the know head to Westover Plantation. This home, built about 1730 by William Byrd II, only opens its grounds (you can't go inside) for touring.

Situated directly on the James River, the best view of the buildings and grounds is found by walking across the lawn instead of following the path. Check out the small structure by the ice house, which contains passageways leading to the river in case of attack by Indians.

On the other side of the house, look for the iron fence with supporting columns topped by unusual stone finials cut to resemble an acorn for perseverance (from little acorns great oaks grow); a pineapple for hospitality; a Greek Key to the World for knowledge; a cornucopia or horn of plenty; a beehive for industry; and an urn of flowers for beauty.

After leaving Berkeley and Westover, look on the right for one of the best "non-plantation" stops along Route 5, for a few minutes or for the night. Edgewood Bed-and-Breakfast is a perfect place to stop for some southern hospitality, antique shopping, and, of course, a bed for the night and a full breakfast in the morning.

Julian and Dot Boulware play host in this historic house, which has served as a church, post office, telephone exchange, restaurant, nursing home, and a lookout for Confederate generals. For visitors and overnight guests, its now enjoying its best use.

Only eighteen miles (XX kilometers) and hundreds of years out of Richmond is the last of the plantations. Like many stately mansions, the ride up to Shirley Plantation is along a tree-lined road. Shirley was founded in 1613, just six years after the settlers arrived in Jamestown to establish the first permanent English Colony in the New World. The brick structure is one of the nation's prime examples of Queen Anne architecture.

It has been the home of the Carter family since 1723 and the 800-acre working plantation is still owned and operated by the ninth and tenth generations of the original family. It was the home of Anne Hill Carter, mother of Robert E. Lee.

As they do today, many prominent Virginians enjoyed the hospitality of Shirley Plantation, including George Washington and Thomas Jefferson. Look for the plethora of pineapples, a Colonial symbol of hospitality, in the hand-carved woodwork of the house and the 3 1/2-foot pineapple pinial on the peak of the rooftop. The history- and anecdote-packed tour is excellent and a tour of the grounds along the James is invigorating.

Civil War buffs flock to Fort Harrison, one of many large battlefields that are part of the Richmond National Battlefield Park. There is a small museum and visitors center, where you can get background on Fort Harrison's role in the War Between the States and a useful map.

Fort Harrison was bloodily captured by the Union forces of General Ulysses S. Grant in 1864 with more than 15,000 Yankee troops. The battle served as the beginning of the downfall of Richmond, the Capital of the Confederacy, six months later. There's a pretty and (now) peaceful walking tour and drive through the park before heading back to Route 5.

As you enter Richmond along the James River, the modern skyline looms ahead, but the memories of a unique past are just a few miles behind you. One mile (XX kilometers) out of town, the Annabel Lee, a restored paddle wheeler, sits on the James waiting to take tourists along the scenic river. You can also sign up nearby for a whitewater rafting trip through downtown Richmond.