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TRINIDAD AND TOBAGO:

T 'n' T MEANS DYNAMITE DRIFT DIVING

AND DOUBLE YOUR ISLAND FUN

If you're looking for something different in a dive destination, head to Trinidad and Tobago. This two-island nation has the perfect combination of Caribbean culture with a South American flair, just the right amount of development, and virtually undiscovered diving. With this "T 'n' T," you'll definitely get more bang for your dive vacation buck.

Trinidad and Tobago are still relatively unknown in the dive travel community, but this is changing. Trinidad's Port of Spain provides a cornucopia of color and rhythm as the urban center of the islands and one of the world's great places for Carnival. Outside the urban areas, Trinidad's natural wonders help visitors recover from the craziness of Carnival. Over on smaller and quieter Tobago, peaceful resortsand unparalleled diving await adventurous dive travellers.

HISTORY

The earliest settlers on the islands were Arawak indians, who were followed by the Caribs. Amerindian spirits linger at places like Guayaguayare, Tunapuna, and Cocorite.

Trinidad was the name given by Columbus when he first spotted the island of three hills in 1498 and claimed it for the Spanish Crown. The Spanish settled in Sangre Grande, San Fernando, and Port of Spain, colonizing the island for several centuries. French planters, uprooted in the revolution of 1789, settled in Sans Souci, Blanchisseuse, and Matelot.

With slavery abolished in 1833, indentured laborers (predominantly from India) were brought to the island, a practice that lasted until 1917. As the irrepressible African and Indian influences permeated, modern Trinidad was born.

Over on Tobago, Columbus and other virtually ignored the island until 1628, when Charles I gave it the Earl of Pembroke. Regular skirmishes and more than 30 changes in power between the French, Dutch, and British ended with the fall of Napolean. Subsequent British rule, starting in 1814, saw the founding of towns like Scarborough, Plymouth, and Roxborough. Tobago's development as a rich sugar island led to a modern population of mostly African descent.

It was the inspired decision of a British bureaucrat that created the combination of the two islands in 1888. Trinidad and Tobago gained independence from Britain in 1962 and, in 1976, declared itself a republic within the Commonwealth.

GEOGRAPHY

Situated just seven miles off the coast of South America, both Trinidad and Tobago were once joined to the mainland. This ancient continental link meant many mainland life forms remained on the islands when they split away from the continent. But they are now crowded into a very small geographic area for all to enjoy.

Mountainous rain forests, tropical savannahs, mangrove swamps, rivers, seashore, and reefs all lie close together to form a geographic wonderland in miniature. Few destinations provide so much in so little space.

Just 21 miles of water separate Trinidad and Tobago, which are linked daily by planes and ferries. Trinidad, with 1,864 square miles, is the larger of the twins, with the mountains of the Northern Range to the sugar cane of the central planes and down to the soft green hills of the south. Tobago, with just 116 square miles, features a central spine of forested hills and windswept shorelines.

There are more than 430 different species of birds, 620 different species of butterflies, and 2,300 different flowering shrubs and plants (700 of them orchids). There are also more than 100 different mammals on the two islands, including a huge variety of bats and more than 70 different reptiles. It's little wonder that David Attenborough chose this island nation for key sequences in his wildlife documentaries, The Trials of Life.

The islands are a major crossing point on the migrations paths of birds moving north or south. The savannah lands are an extension of those in central Venezuela while the mountains are a continuation of a branch in South America. This environment makes Trinidad and Tobago one of the top ten countries in the world in terms of number of species per square mile.

Forest covers much of Trinidad and Tobago, making for many wild animals. Hikers can hope to spot: deer; wild pigs; armadillos; ocelots (tiger cats); howler monkeys; iguanas; frogs and toads; butterflies; and much more.

On the flora front, the islands are as colorful as a Carnival costume. The vivid purple and yellow poui trees and the spectacular orange immortelles are two highlights. But the orchids, palms, flamboyants, hibiscus, and heliconias also contribute to this floral rainbow.

Below the surface, the waters of the great Orinoco River flood into the Atlantic and prevent major coral formations around Trinidad. But these same nutrient-rich runoffs attract a wide variety of marine life to Tobago as they flow by it.

As with its natural diversity, Trinidad and Tobago also feature ethnic diversity. African and Indian descendants dominated the mix, but you'll also find many Chinese, Lebanese, European, and Amerindian influences. Of the nation's population of 1.3 million, Tobago's share is just 45,000. It's a universal geography of people and places.

THE DIVING

The Guyana current moves slowly up the eastern coast of South America, divides around Trinidad, and washes the south and east coasts of Tobago. Fed by the Orinoco river, the waters are warm and rich with nutrients, making it ideally suited for a wide range of marine life.

Many deep-sea fish are found much closer to the surface and land than normal and divers have little difficulty spotting barracudas, dolphins, whale sharks, turtles, porpoises, and the famed manta rays. Smaller fish, like queen and French angels, damsels, parrotfish, and grunts, abound. Tarpon and trigger fish are also regular residents.

The twelve or so manta rays that haunt the waters just off Little Tobago are just one of the many wonders awaiting visitors to Trinidad and Tobago. Off Tobago, underwater visibility is generally in the 100- to 150-foot range (40 feet of visibility is considered a very bad day).

Tobago is a mainly volcanic island, with green hills falling steeply into the sea. Below the surface, divers will find rocky canyons, underwater tunnels, and caves. Virtually every species of coral can be found, including what is thought to be the world's largest known brain coral: it's 12 feet high and 16 feet across and it's still growing!

Most of Tobago's dives are drift dives, but the variety of locations means there are easy dives for novices and many more difficult dives for experienced divers. The best areas are on the northeast coast from Speyside to Charlotteville and the south and west coasts between Pigeon Point and Castara.

Diving is done from pirogues, the traditional fishermen's craft, with their high pointed bows that have evolved to suit local conditions. This means you'll rarely have more than five other divers (at most) on any dive.

Speyside is the place for meeting the mantas, which generally range in size from 10 to 14 feet in breadth. They are typically friendly and accustomed to diver interaction. It's relatively common to have the opportunity to scratch a manta's back and to hang on to it's broad shoulders for the underwater ride of your life.

Other exciting sites right off Speyside include Batteaux Reef; Angel Reef; Bookends, where two large rocks break the surface and tarpon are known to congregate; Japanese Gardens (plentiful sponges); and Blackjack Hole. Other rewarding sits nearby include Sleeper, Flying Manta, John Rock, and Kamikaze Cut. All of these combine to make Speyside an ideal T 'n' T diving base. Crown Point, situated on the southwest tip of Tobago, is a good base for exploring The Shallows, a plateau between 50 and 150 feet, which is favored by large pelagics like turtles, dolphins, nurse sharks, and sometimes larger oceanic sharks. A fast drift dive, aptly named Flying Reef, is also good for rays and morays.

The west coast features beach-lined bays, with fringing reefs extending from nearly all the rocky points that lie between them. Mount Irvine, going down to about 60 feet, is a popular dive for all levels. Mount Irvine Wall often offers eagle rays and, at night, sea octupus, morays, lobster, short-nosed batfish, and orange ball anemones. The Sisters is a dramatic group of rocks off Bloody Bay that plunges down like a wall dive. Arnos Vale Reef has a depth of just 40 feet and consists of several reef lines parallel to shore, with morays, southern stingrays, and even Atlantic torpedo rays as frequent visitors.

ON LAND

Most visiting divers will probably want to be based on Tobago (and specifically in Speyside). But that doesn't mean you shouldn't use your surface intervals to explore the rest of the island, as well as heading over to the fascinating sister island of Trinidad.

Scarborough, Tobago's quaint capital, provides an easy walking tour and the small Museum of Tobago History. A climb above Scarborough brings you to beautifully maintained Fort King George. The tiny town of Plymouth and the ruins of nearby Fort James are also worth a visit. From Speyside, you can reach Little Tobago, a 450-acre bird sanctuary. In the hidden village of Charlotteville, be sure to try the fresh kingfish.

Divers will probably want to be based in Speyside, where it doesn't hurt that the island's most famous restaurant is also right in town. Jemma's Sea View Kitchen specializes in family-style meals of fresh fish, chicken, shrimp, and local fruits and vegetables. It's all served in an ever-expanding treehouse overlooking the sea. Wash it all down with Trinidad and Tobago's own brew, Carib Beer.

Over on Trinidad, Port of Spain is one of the Caribbean's most interesting large cities. From the leafy lanes of Cascade to the rugged slopes of Laventille and on to ever-ready-to-party St. James, Port of Spain is a collection of neighborhoods that is fascinating to explore.

In the center of Port of Spain, Queen's Park Savannah is a classic tropical city oasis. The park's unexpected series of buildings known as the Magnificent Seven includes a Scottish castle, a Renaissance villa, and an Edwardian school. The 'downtown' area includes Independence Square and its newly-sculpted Brian Lara Promenade, The Red House (the nation's parliament), Spektakula Forum (an immortal Calypso shrine), and Nobel Prize winner Derek Walcott's famed Trinidad Theatre Workshop.

Outside the city, a jungle-fringed road of twists and turns leads to stunning Maracas Beach. In the central district, east Indian craftspeople practice their art at roadside stands. In south Trinidad, La Brea Pitch Lake makes for an interesting outing.

But the beauty of Trinidad's Port of Spain and surrounding countryside is only a sideshow during Carnival (see sidebar). Though music and nightlife are good anytime of year, if you can plan a dive vacation during Carnival, you'll get the best of both worlds: a colorful parade of marine life drifting by below the surface off Tobago and a colorful parade of crazed Carnival revelers drifting by above the surface on Trinidad. It's definitely a powerful T 'n' T explosion of color.

FACTS & FIGURES

Population: 1.3 million.

Size: Trinidad is 1,864 square miles. Tobago is 116 square miles.

Climate: The average temperature is 83F. June to December is considered the wet season, with mostly sporadic and quick showers.

Language: English, with some French patois still spoken and Hindi in the Indian population.

Money: The Trinidad and Tobago dollar (TT$). Most tourist-oriented hotels, restaurants, and shops accept US dollars and major credit cards.

Telephone: Area code 868.

Transportation: Rental cars are readily available, as are taxis. Most hotels can arrange tours.

Entry Requirements: Valid passport.

Water Temperature: Typically 75F.

Underwater Visibility: Ranges from 40 feet to more than 140 feet, depending on the location and weather conditions.

Dive Boats: Pirogues, the small traditional fishermen's craft, have high pointed bows that have evolved to suit local conditions. This means you'll rarely have more than five other divers (at most) on any dive.

More About Trinidad and Tobago: Call the Tourism and Industrial Development Company of Trinidad and Tobago (TIDCO) at (888) 595-4TNT or (809) 623-1932. Their web site is at http://www.tidco.co.tt.

Another good contact is Sales, Marketing and Reservation Tourism Services (S.M.A.R.T.S.), 7000 Boulevard East, Guttenberg, NJ 07093; (201) 662-3403, fax (201) 869-7628.

SIDEBAR

CARNIVAL!!

TRINIDAD'S CARIBBEAN & SOUTH AMERICAN CRAZINESS

They really know how to throw a party in the Caribbean and the carnivals throughout the islands are some of the best in the world. But Trinidad's carnival craziness is definitely one of the best. If you time it right, it's the perfect accomaniment to a dive vacation to Trinidad and Tobago.

Trinidad's festivities take place each year on the Monday and Tuesday before Ash Wednesday. For 48 hours, the island offers one big street party.

The costumes are incredibly colorful and intricate, often costing hundreds of Trinidad and Tobago dollars. Those in carnival costumes are usually happy to pose for pictures.

Calypso commands the musical scene, with many concerts each night. The King of Carnival each year is the top calypso artist.

Trinidad's hotels and inns are typically booked well in advance, but Tobago may be a perfect base for divers.